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Need to jettison the HU-850. What bits do I need?

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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 20:31   #1
Zanx
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Default Need to jettison the HU-850. What bits do I need?

Bottom line, I'm not paying £300 to get the CD player fixed in my 2000 S80 T6. The other option is a iMiv, but I'm not massively keen on MP3 sound quality. I do have a very nice Alpine CD radio from years back and have ordered the 1 din adaptor. Next step is to buy an ISO adaptor that will bridge the gap twixt loom and Alpine, the person selling the 1 din adaptors do one, but specify that it's no good for Dolby CD players. Does anyone know where I can get one that will work with the HU850? I take it an ariel adaptor will also be needed?

Any info at all gratefully accepted
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 22:08   #2
Paul Wildsmith
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Can't really answer your question, though think you just connect one aerial lead, and live without the centre channel.
My question is why you don't like mp3 sound quality? If recorded at a high bit rate, and bearing in mind the car environment, I've found it OK.
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 22:16   #3
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There is a commercially available adaptor and a DIY wiring adaptor (extension of the ISO adaptor) for the underseat amplifier equipped systems.

There have been a few threads where these have both been mentioned, try a search for "double din" etc as that is what I was searching for when I came across them.
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 22:23   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Wildsmith View Post
Can't really answer your question, though think you just connect one aerial lead, and live without the centre channel.
My question is why you don't like mp3 sound quality? If recorded at a high bit rate, and bearing in mind the car environment, I've found it OK.
Indeed it is , Most commercialy available MP3 songs are recorded at 128 kb/s and if you record your own from your CD's the default setting is also 128 kb/s but if you look at the options for recording ( or ripping) you should find a quality setting , choose 320kb/s and you will find the diference is like that between normal TV and HD Tv ;-)
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 23:17   #5
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Am I right in thinking the iMiv only works with the iPod? If so, my Zune is incompatible unless there's an aux in on the iMiv.
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 23:39   #6
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-S80-ISO-...item3efbeee3dc

give these guys a ring although it says 2004 on it works for the s80 up to 2004 but the new head unit needs two pre outs
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 23:43   #7
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There is a version with the Aux input mate but it will not allow you to control the zune from the stereo controls / steering wheel controls.

Mp3's do sound pretty good at higher bitrates.

For the original poster, you will need tha facia adaptor, an aerial adaptor, and a volvo to iso lead.

If you dont have a factory fitted amp the new stereo will power the front and rear speakers only ( not sure if you can get dolby setups without external amps though ? )

If you do have a factory fitted amp then you will need an autoleads adaptor that converts the amp plug at the back of your original stereo, into male rca plugs that will fit the amp outputs of your new stereo.

This will then power the 4 corners of the car but will not make the centre speaker to work.

You could then use one of the redundant speaker outputs of your new stereo to power the centre speaker, but this will not be true dolby surround sound like you may have now.

You would need a seperate dolby processor and single channel amp for that.

Thanks

Ricky
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Old Feb 24th, 2010, 23:53   #8
Zanx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip View Post
There is a version with the Aux input mate but it will not allow you to control the zune from the stereo controls / steering wheel controls.

Mp3's do sound pretty good at higher bitrates.

For the original poster, you will need tha facia adaptor, an aerial adaptor, and a volvo to iso lead.

If you dont have a factory fitted amp the new stereo will power the front and rear speakers only ( not sure if you can get dolby setups without external amps though ? )

If you do have a factory fitted amp then you will need an autoleads adaptor that converts the amp plug at the back of your original stereo, into male rca plugs that will fit the amp outputs of your new stereo.

This will then power the 4 corners of the car but will not make the centre speaker to work.

You could then use one of the redundant speaker outputs of your new stereo to power the centre speaker, but this will not be true dolby surround sound like you may have now.

You would need a seperate dolby processor and single channel amp for that.

Thanks

Ricky

Brilliant, cheers. To be honest, I'm not that blown away by the whole Dolby thing anyway, the "Centre Effect" button on the HU barely does anything.

Anyhoo, the chap I got the fascia off just emailed me with a list of bits to make it all work, I'll list the ebay auctions if I may.

ISO Lead.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Fascia
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Ariel adaptor
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I'll report back as to whether it all works or not. The 2 hour drive from London to The Fens will go much faster with some decent choons.
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 00:35   #9
Tip
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If you have dolby i assume you have the original fitted amp so you will also need the Autoleads PC9-414 to make the amp work with your new alpine stereo.

The stereo also needs to have 2 pre outs.

What model alpine is it ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-Din-to-M...item2eaaf122b2
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Old Feb 28th, 2010, 20:46   #10
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I have the Dolby amp, but am going to bypass it using the V8disco method. He basically extended the wires on the speaker ISO connector so it will reach the speaker plug under the driver's seat. This is the result of about 30 mins stripping and soldering wires to the ISO connector.



Not measuring properly before I started meant that the loom was about 2ft longer than it needed to be, better that than 2inches too short I say.

The reason for doing it this way is that I don't need to buy the autoleads amp adaptor or have to run extra RCA leads for it. Cheaper (ISO connector and the wire cost me less than £8), easier (if you are as strange as I am and actually enjoy a bit of soldering) and I have more faith in my chosen headunit's ability to provide clean power to the speakers than the underseat amp.

Last edited by Redtwin; Feb 28th, 2010 at 20:48.
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