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heater control

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Old Jul 5th, 2021, 10:25   #1
arcturus
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Hi,I have a problem with the heater in that when it's shut down I am still getting hot air coming through.This indicates to me that the water control valve is not shutting off the flow completely.how difficult is it to access and replace if necessary the valve. Secondly,if that is too difficult can I fit a shut off valve to the heater externally so that the circulating cooling water bypasses the heater.
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One more question, what is the correct size for the fan belt?
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Last edited by arcturus; Jul 5th, 2021 at 11:21.
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Old Jul 5th, 2021, 17:48   #2
142 Guy
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You may have one or both of the following problems.

- the cable arrangement that controls the heater valve is configured such that the lever arm that controls the valve is approaching 0 deg relative to the operating cable so that it exerts very little force as it approaches full closed with the result that the valve does not fully close. On my LHD car it is relatively easy to reach down under the lower valence and with your thumb push the actuating lever fully closed. Give that a try first to see if it fixes the problem. This problem exists even with a brand new valve.

- the seal in the valve has failed. You can rebuild the valves; however, whether you install a new one or rebuild your existing valve you will have to remove the valve. The biggest problem with R&R of the valve is that it has a capillary tube attached to a bulb which is located inside the heater unit. In order to remove that bulb you have to remove the lower portion of the heater unit. You could clip the capillary tube on the existing valve, install the new valve and just secure the new capillary tube with some cable ties rather than take the heater apart and install the sensor bulb in the heater. The temperature sensing feature on the valve is rather useless so it is no great loss.

Aside from the sensor bulb hassle, valve removal is straight forward; but, inconvenient. The hose connections to the valve are on the outside of the firewall so fairly accessible; but, the tight space between the firewall and the back of the head will pretty much guarantee some scraped knuckles during replacement.

If the heater hoses are old, I suggest that you have some new replacements on hand if you are going to replace the valve. Old hoses do not like being disturbed.

You can fit an external shut off valve. The biggest down side to this option is that because of the constrained space and the 180 deg in - out configuration of the existing heater valve you will generally have to fit a large loops of heater hose to connect the external valve into the circuit which looks like a definite bodge.

Forum member Burdekin went through the 140 heater valve replacement hassle about 1 - 2 months ago. His thread has additional details.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=317423

I believe the fan / alternator belt with the standard 35 amp alternator is a 350.

Last edited by 142 Guy; Jul 5th, 2021 at 17:55.
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