Engine: B5254: Dealer used 10W-40 early in the car's life?

[ilmiont]

Perusing the old service history of what's now my car, an anomaly's stood out that I've never noticed previously.

For several years when the car was young, the supplying Volvo main dealer added "GTX Magnatec 10W-40". Looks like that's an A3/B4 oil.

Volvo state A5/B5 0W-30 and as far as I know, they always have done.

Sept 2004 - Car new to Volvo.
Sept 2005 - Car sold into private ownership. I've no pre-sale service record.
Aug 2006 - Dealer serviced with "CASTROL SLX R-TEC FU" - Looks like this was correct 0W-30.
Sept 2007 - GTX Magnatec 10W-40
Sept 2008 - GTX Magnatec 10W-40
Aug 2009 - GTX Magnatec 10W-40
Aug 2010 - Returns to CASTROL SLX R-TEC FU. Car receives a 108,000 mile service including cambelt change having done 58,000 miles on a consistent annual mileage, no change in owner.
Aug 2011 - "MOBIL 1 0W-30" - Correct spec, but suddenly not Castrol! The car has never been back to a dealer since this service. Remains with the same owner for several more years.
2012 onwards - Serviced annually with 5W-30 at independents from now on.

So why the three years of a Volvo main dealer adding oil that's not in spec?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by ilmiont

Volvo state A5/B5 0W-30 and as far as I know, they always have done.

Is that what's written in the owner's manual?

[staffy460]

10/40 is fine its in spec

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by ilmiont

So why the three years of a Volvo main dealer adding oil that's not in spec?

Who knows but with 10W-40 quite commonly used back then take into account the size/output of a workshop there's a strong chance that oil grades would have been, and still are today, bought in in large quantities (1000 ltr. IBC's) and then applied across the board regardless of specs

The dealer may have also been instructed to fill with 10W-40, the next best thing available, when the customer was informed of the price of 0W-30. It's still expensive now so can only imagine how much 6 litres were in '07.

In our climate 10W-40 can be use provided it's changed frequently, especially so on turbocharged engines, before it starts to break down. Although, in saying that, I personally wouldn't use it on these VVT units as I'm not sure a 10W-40 meets the ACEA requirements for our engines. Whatever about viscosity this is where ash content and HTHS come into play so whether it be 0W-30, 5w-30, 0W-40 ect. it must meet the ACEA A5/B5 spec. Any longlife fully synthetic oil will not do...A5/B5 only!

Some interesting debate here on which flavour to choose



I'm rambling on now but for those of you who managed to make it this far and are interested in the economy side of things, and I know this is nothing to bragg about in these times, but since sourcing the correct 0W-30 for my S80 I've seen a consistent one litre improvement on my average MPG going from 9.5lts/100km (30mpg) to 8.5ltrs (33mpg) under mixed driving conditions and I'm seeing 6.5lts/100km (43mpg) on motorway runs. Not bad for a big old slushbox. I used Shell Helix Ultra this time around.

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Is that what's written in the owner's manual?

It's what's written under the bonnet of my '05 S80 B5204T5 (dual VVT) recommended spec. A5/B5 0W-30.

[BarryCambs]

I wouldn't worry about it - just nice to see it's had some oil changes! I've rebuilt many, many engines over the years, including earth movers, lorries, cars, etc. I couldn't point to one where the wrong grade of oil had caused a problem. Unless a major failure had caused damage, pretty much all of them had a sump full of sludge and people shrugging their shoulders when asked when it was last changed. On more than one occasion, Ive had to spoon the oil out with a trowel!

I always use fully synthetic 5-30w in mine, but the service record shows its basically had what ever was in the barrel before my ownership, including when it was still main dealer serviced. I had to take the head off to do the gasket at 140k miles and you could still see the hone marks down the bores. Cams etc look like new. it's no on 210k with no issues, so don't lose any sleep over it.

Gearboxes - then I worry!

[Familyman 90]

I used to work with a chap whom acquired a 50 gallon drum of hydraulic oil from somewhere and ran his BMW 530i on it. We all ummed and ahhhed, and decided it would handle the pressures fine but the heat was another matter entirely.

He changed it frequently and suffered no adverse effects.

Within sensible limits the grade isn't usually critical. Its the other characteristics that matter more on modern cars, such as is it suitable for extended service intervals, will it cause problems with a DPF, is the car VVT, that sort of thing.

[ilmiont]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Is that what's written in the owner's manual?

yes

Originally Posted by staffy460

10/40 is fine its in spec

Not mentioned in owners manual or in VIDA though?

Originally Posted by Baffler

In our climate 10W-40 can be use provided it's changed frequently, especially so on turbocharged engines, before it starts to break down. Although, in saying that, I personally wouldn't use it on these VVT units as I'm not sure a 10W-40 meets the ACEA requirements for our engines. Whatever about viscosity this is where ash content and HTHS come into play so whether it be 0W-30, 5w-30, 0W-40 ect. it must meet the ACEA A5/B5 spec. Any longlife fully synthetic oil will not do...A5/B5 only!

See that's the thing, as far as I can tell what they added was A3/B4, and VIDA and manual are very clear on A5/B5.

Originally Posted by BarryCambs

I wouldn't worry about it - just nice to see it's had some oil changes! I've rebuilt many, many engines over the years, including earth movers, lorries, cars, etc. I couldn't point to one where the wrong grade of oil had caused a problem. Unless a major failure had caused damage, pretty much all of them had a sump full of sludge and people shrugging their shoulders when asked when it was last changed. On more than one occasion, Ive had to spoon the oil out with a trowel!

I always use fully synthetic 5-30w in mine, but the service record shows its basically had what ever was in the barrel before my ownership, including when it was still main dealer serviced. I had to take the head off to do the gasket at 140k miles and you could still see the hone marks down the bores. Cams etc look like new. it's no on 210k with no issues, so don't lose any sleep over it.

I'm not worried about it, just curious. Been 10+ years since those services and always on *W-30 oils since. My Volvo specialist added 5W-30 in April; I'm planning to use 0W-30 when I service it myself in a couple of weeks (about 6,500 miles since April, topped-up with about 1.5 litres of 0W-30 in that time). Car runs beautifully, oil is just starting to blacken at the bottom of the dipstick. It did have a "pcv pipe change" at an independent in 2017.

Back to the question, I'm no oil expert and was only wondering if there was some consensus around it or if it was common practice then. Maybe the dealer was using up bulk quantities or lowering cost for customer.

Personally I plan to add 0W-30 when servicing myself, as I like to do things by the book, although I understand 5W-30 is perfectly acceptable but maybe a little less protection immediately after starting.

[Georgeandkira]

Like you, I'm no oil expert. I got my feet wet having to learn about oils suitable for turbocharged engines.
At that time (2003) A3, B3 was the specced oil for the Saabs in the family and Volvo turbos too if I'm not mistaken.
I believe the "A" had to do with the oil's ability to withstand heat and the "B" and the lesser known "C" had to do with dirt suspension and additive longevity.
I didn't memorize this stuff nor did I have to as proper oils were available.

Much like using the French made, 3 prong Volvo plugs in my non-turbos. They made it easy. Just buy the right thing.

That being said, don't hold your breath waiting for me to log 20,000 miles on any super oil. Possibly in Hawaii or Panama in a service vehicle....NO WAY in a normally used vehicle in a 4 season setting.

From what I remember reading back then and in posts since, a vehicle in the UK would never see temps cold enough for the difference between a 5W and a 10W to matter. Those blokes near Hudson's Bay and Narvik, Norway need to heed the recommendations closely.

Regarding, "Maybe the dealer was using up bulk quantities or lowering cost for customer"; you're much too forgiving. The guy had the 10W-40 on hand and just used it instead of ordering up the proper stuff. I suppose he should get a point for including the 10W-40 spec on the bills.

A counterman at a chain tire store here (Mavis) said they "throw a 10-30 into everything". Being cavalier with others' assets must tickle their fancies.