Any Advice, Part 2!

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt

B230Es are non-interference unless the head's been skimmed twice; one skim usually won't take off enough metal to make it an interference engine. Heron head (B230K) engines were all carburettored and have a lot of emissions plumbing lying around them.

The PAS should be nice and sharp - check the tyre pressures as a soft tyre can make it feel heavy and the belt tension too.

If you unbolt the fan from the housing, then unbolt the shroud and push it towards the engine you should be able to draw the fan out in the gap then remove the shroud.

Put plenty of Laird Scooby's magic potions (ATF and acetone) on the adjuster bolt threads as well.

I think the galvanised plate was factory-fitted; if there's one on the passenger side as well that would confirm my suspicions.

Aha, missed your post as I was busy writing mine, Loki! Thanks, reassured.
I'll do some magic potion searching... :-)

[Bugjam1999]

A few comments- firstly, glad it’s arrived and on with the project!

The water pump is also driven by those two parallel fan belts- the belts go around the crank, the alternator and the water pump which has the fan on the front of it- don’t drive the car without the belts in place.

The galvanised plates are standard- one each side, under the driver and the passengers feet.

PAS should be nice and light, if it isn’t and the pump isn’t low on fluid my money is on the universal joints under the bonnet- they’re often neglected. Spray them both with your penetrating oil of choice over a few days and see if it gets better. If not you’ll need to remove that section of the steering column to be able to free them off once they’re off the car, which is pretty easy to do - but see if a few days of penetrating oil does the trick first.

Cheers

[Chris152]

Thanks Bugjam. They call it the u-joint, right? If that's the one, I've just sprayed it and turned the wheel and sprayed some more, and will keep doing so a few days.

Loki - I checked the front tyres and ps belt tension, all seem fine.

I checked the fluid level, slightly over max after driving it around the block (to check I wasn't being unfair to it - definitely heavy). If the universal joint option doesn't work, should I try bleeding the fluid?

[Stephen Edwin]

Hello.

When checking out that rust, please make sure whoever assists or advises you sees all the photos from both simplysimonroberts and from John H
in the thread linked to here

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...er+rust&page=2

Little rust on first look. But not an inexpensive repair.

It looks a nice car. Enjoy.




There is a post in another thread saying this can affect saloons ....


.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

A few comments- firstly, glad it’s arrived and on with the project!

The water pump is also driven by those two parallel fan belts- the belts go around the crank, the alternator and the water pump which has the fan on the front of it- don’t drive the car without the belts in place.

The galvanised plates are standard- one each side, under the driver and the passengers feet.

PAS should be nice and light, if it isn’t and the pump isn’t low on fluid my money is on the universal joints under the bonnet- they’re often neglected. Spray them both with your penetrating oil of choice over a few days and see if it gets better. If not you’ll need to remove that section of the steering column to be able to free them off once they’re off the car, which is pretty easy to do - but see if a few days of penetrating oil does the trick first.

Cheers

I’m really pleased I was completely wrong about the galvanised plates.

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks Bugjam. They call it the u-joint, right? If that's the one, I've just sprayed it and turned the wheel and sprayed some more, and will keep doing so a few days.

Loki - I checked the front tyres and ps belt tension, all seem fine.

I checked the fluid level, slightly over max after driving it around the block (to check I wasn't being unfair to it - definitely heavy). If the universal joint option doesn't work, should I try bleeding the fluid?

Yes a u-joint. There are two- one down by the oil filter and one up against the bulkhead, so of course oil both. In my car stiff steering was caused by the one up by the bulkhead which was completely seized in one direction

Turning the steering wheel lock to lock is all that’s needed to get any air out of the system, so it’s unlikely that’s the problem.

Cheers

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

PS. Having just thought about it: you may have to remove the fan to get the cowling off - in that case unbolt it (4 10mm bolts I think) and leave it off for the time being (it won't make much difference until you run the motor for perhaps 10 minutes, which you won't be doing for a while) and also leave the cowl off until the new ancillary belts arrive. The cowl has to come off anyway, so that will save you a bit of time later. You could leave the ancillary belts off for the time being when you put the car back together. It will be fine to run the motor with no alternator or PAS to check out the new cam belt.That will give you better access to lock the crank and remove the cam cover.

... silly me Chris, I forgot the alternator belt also powers the water pump, so don't run the motor for too long without it being fitted (a minute to check the motor runs after you fit the cam belt would be fine, but no more than that).

Alan

[Chris152]

We've only gone and done it, Rodney!
Timing belt and new drive belts fitted. My plan was to get the timing belt in today and put the cover back, and fit the drive belts tomorrow when Brookhouse said they should be here, but as we were working the postie dropped a parcel off with them in - brilliant service.
We left the radiator on as I felt the more we tried to do, the more that might go wrong - which I started to regret at one point as the intermediate cog slipped out of position but we found a way to line it up again (a palette knife across the correct slot in the cog which touched the housing mark once in the right place).
The hardest part was getting the power steering belt off - we couldn't get it to slacken enough so ended up prying it off with a screwdriver. Funnily, the new one went on fine.
Sounds and runs great!
We're both feeling relieved and more confident - thank you all so much for your advice.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Chris152

We've only gone and done it, Rodney!
Timing belt and new drive belts fitted. My plan was to get the timing belt in today and put the cover back, and fit the drive belts tomorrow when Brookhouse said they should be here, but as we were working the postie dropped a parcel off with them in - brilliant service.
We left the radiator on as I felt the more we tried to do, the more that might go wrong - which I started to regret at one point as the intermediate cog slipped out of position but we found a way to line it up again (a palette knife across the correct slot in the cog which touched the housing mark once in the right place).
The hardest part was getting the power steering belt off - we couldn't get it to slacken enough so ended up prying it off with a screwdriver. Funnily, the new one went on fine.
Sounds and runs great!
We're both feeling relieved and more confident - thank you all so much for your advice.

Satisfying - isn't it?
Well done you two.
Alan

[loki_the_glt]

Originally Posted by Chris152

We've only gone and done it, Rodney!
Timing belt and new drive belts fitted. My plan was to get the timing belt in today and put the cover back, and fit the drive belts tomorrow when Brookhouse said they should be here, but as we were working the postie dropped a parcel off with them in - brilliant service.
We left the radiator on as I felt the more we tried to do, the more that might go wrong - which I started to regret at one point as the intermediate cog slipped out of position but we found a way to line it up again (a palette knife across the correct slot in the cog which touched the housing mark once in the right place).
The hardest part was getting the power steering belt off - we couldn't get it to slacken enough so ended up prying it off with a screwdriver. Funnily, the new one went on fine.
Sounds and runs great!
We're both feeling relieved and more confident - thank you all so much for your advice.

Great news - you'lll have to let us know if the new PAS belt has improved the steering.