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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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How to undo seized brake-line to hose nuts? Any ideas?Views : 1411 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 22nd, 2021, 22:23 | #11 |
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I had a nightmare with this when replacing the front brake hoses on my petrol 940 for its last MOT-but-one. One side was stuck fast, the union absolutely seemingly welded solid. I tried everything, heat, cold, every spray and fluid imaginable, flare ring spanners and allsorts. Eventually I had to admit defeat, purchase a flare tool, cut the union off and remake the joint. Surprisingly not particularly difficult and has been 100% trouble free since. I did purchase a reel of brake pipe in case I had to remake the entire hard line, but it wasn’t required in the end.
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Nov 22nd, 2021, 22:28 | #12 | |
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Do you remember which flare type it was, though? I gather there are loads of different types it could be.
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Nov 22nd, 2021, 22:53 | #13 | |
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Nov 22nd, 2021, 23:10 | #14 | |
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The weird thing, looking at that Skandix page, is that the little coil of pipe and the weight of 40g doesn't seem anything like enough to reach all the way to the front wing. When I looked underneath, I saw the pipes going off by a pretty circuitous route around the rear jacking point and fuel tank protecting flap etc but I didn't see any connectors near the back ... and even if there were, I suspect they'd be just as seized, so not necessarily helping the situation if I decided to just replace the pipes from there to each wheel arch. Have I missed some joins that are actually there? If so, I might have another look to see whether it's just going to be easier to replace back to the joins. Edit: I suspect I might have been right, as the ones listed there are for ABS models, which mine isn't. I assume it's still a DIN/ISO bubble flare though.
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Nov 22nd, 2021, 23:26 | #15 |
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There is quite a bit in the FAQ about how to tackle this, including the type of flare joint, the complexity of replicating it and the likelihood that you will end up replacing your brake lines.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Bra...andReplacement I must admit my own policy has always been to leave brake work to the professionals. Quite apart from being much easier with a proper lift the results of getting something wrong are likely to be bad. If I were in this position I would probably be tempted to try the suggestion in the FAQ of cutting the rubber pipe and getting a decent socket on that side. I think my last resort before replacing the lines would be to try an impact wrench. However, the latter did not go well for me dismantling rusted banjo fittings on a fuel line so use at your own risk. |
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Nov 23rd, 2021, 00:38 | #16 |
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Good grief! How did I manage to miss that in the FAQs!? I know I looked in there when I was looking at putting new seals in, before I found the calipers were scrap (on which more at another date - quite an interestingly hairy story!)
Thanks for that.
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Nov 23rd, 2021, 08:30 | #17 | |
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Once you've got it mixed 50/50 with the acetone, spray, brush or dribble it on the top of the union. Think about it - the pipe is flared and the flare meets a "cone" in the union and they form a pressure tight seal. There is no such seal from the body of the nut to the brake pipe so the WMP (Weapon of Mass Penetration = 50/50 acetone/ATF) can run downwards past the seal to where you need it, inside the threads. As for Plus-Gas, it was ok 30 years ago but not so good these days, ditto for WD40 and many others.
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Nov 23rd, 2021, 09:16 | #18 |
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On the 940 there's a central manifold which the L & R rear brake line connect to - see https://weblisher.textalk.se/gcp/201...0&noConflict=1 (page 1126 if that direct link doesn't work). Possibly it's similar for the 740 as the rear brakes are the same? So it wouldn't necessarily be a big run of brake pipe that's needed. Of course, no guarantee that the unions on the manifold aren't similarly corroded to hell and back.
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Nov 23rd, 2021, 10:14 | #19 | |
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Nov 23rd, 2021, 10:15 | #20 |
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You will get many a union nut off with proper vise grips when a flare spanner fails. Atf/Acetone Freeze type sprays and heat are your friend.
If all fails and you have to cut anything, then cut close to nut and use a flat type hex socket, which gives more puchase than ring spanner. Grinding past can help under the socket and over the union nut for even more grip. |
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seized brake-line nuts |
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