Bonnet release unit

DeeJay · Apr 23rd, 2015, 08:55

Had an hour or so to spare yesterday afternoon and, with good weather, decided to check the state of the bonnet release assembly as I got caught by it's failure on my previous V40 when the nipple broke off the end of the cable when I was cleaning the assembly. Turned out the cable was almost completely rusted through and would certainly have failed on the next couple of bonnet openings or so. Good news was the bonnet was open so I was able to rig up a temporary release mechanism with a piece of good old fashioned wire coat hanger and a length of stout cord. Lasted for ages!

It you have not done it yet, a good clean and re-lube is a simple job. Remove the three securing bolts, gently ease the whole unit away, rotate it and start spraying with WD 40, or similar, and give a good scrub with an old paint brush which will get rid of most of the crud and gunge. I placed a newspaper under it to stop the run-off getting onto the lower cross member. Dried with paper towel, oiled the moving latch/catch plates, and applied a small amount of grease to the cable end and around the nipple.

Operation of the bonnet alarm can also be checked. Hold the blade of the microswitch closed then set the alarm. Now release the blade, alarm should sound (it will certainly make you jump!), unset the alarm and all is well!

Not a big job, but may well save you grief in the future should your release catch fail.

baldmosher · Apr 23rd, 2015, 16:45

IMHO

While we're at it, it's worth replacing the cable with a stainless one anyway, even if it's not at the point of rusting through! It's a lot harder to re-thread the cable once it's snapped..... although not impossible... unless the sheath is wasted too, and then you probably need to replace that properly as well. Again not a massively difficult job. On mine the sheath was ruined in the engine bay so it was just a gaffer tape repair. If it's gone behind the wheel arch you have no choice

Not sure if Volvo have re-specced the cable with stainless, or if you can get an aftermarket stainless the right size, but the tandem gear cable worked a treat for me, with a bit of filing down of the tag on the pull end so it fits snug into the pull handle.

rickmethven · Apr 23rd, 2015, 23:31

Local push bike shop worked for me. Gear cable which I managed to thread through all the existing housings (took a bit of patience). Secured at the bonnet end with a sawn off pin from a 13amp plug. Old school. 2 years later...still working fine.

baldmosher · Apr 24th, 2015, 16:17

That's quite a nifty idea... I went for the simpler option, and used a 3A terminal block aka "chop block" to secure mine!

Apr 23rd, 2015, 08:55	#1
DeeJay VOC Member Last Online: Apr 1st, 2024 11:23 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Rosyth	Bonnet release unit Had an hour or so to spare yesterday afternoon and, with good weather, decided to check the state of the bonnet release assembly as I got caught by it's failure on my previous V40 when the nipple broke off the end of the cable when I was cleaning the assembly. Turned out the cable was almost completely rusted through and would certainly have failed on the next couple of bonnet openings or so. Good news was the bonnet was open so I was able to rig up a temporary release mechanism with a piece of good old fashioned wire coat hanger and a length of stout cord. Lasted for ages! It you have not done it yet, a good clean and re-lube is a simple job. Remove the three securing bolts, gently ease the whole unit away, rotate it and start spraying with WD 40, or similar, and give a good scrub with an old paint brush which will get rid of most of the crud and gunge. I placed a newspaper under it to stop the run-off getting onto the lower cross member. Dried with paper towel, oiled the moving latch/catch plates, and applied a small amount of grease to the cable end and around the nipple. Operation of the bonnet alarm can also be checked. Hold the blade of the microswitch closed then set the alarm. Now release the blade, alarm should sound (it will certainly make you jump!), unset the alarm and all is well! Not a big job, but may well save you grief in the future should your release catch fail.

Apr 23rd, 2015, 16:45	#2
baldmosher moshmobile driver Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 16:07 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Warrington View Photos By: baldmosher	IMHO While we're at it, it's worth replacing the cable with a stainless one anyway, even if it's not at the point of rusting through! It's a lot harder to re-thread the cable once it's snapped..... although not impossible... unless the sheath is wasted too, and then you probably need to replace that properly as well. Again not a massively difficult job. On mine the sheath was ruined in the engine bay so it was just a gaffer tape repair. If it's gone behind the wheel arch you have no choice Not sure if Volvo have re-specced the cable with stainless, or if you can get an aftermarket stainless the right size, but the tandem gear cable worked a treat for me, with a bit of filing down of the tag on the pull end so it fits snug into the pull handle. __________________ baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop

Apr 24th, 2015, 16:17	#4
baldmosher moshmobile driver Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 16:07 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Warrington View Photos By: baldmosher	That's quite a nifty idea... I went for the simpler option, and used a 3A terminal block aka "chop block" to secure mine! __________________ baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop

Apr 23rd, 2015, 23:31	#3
rickmethven 2010 V70 2.4 Manual Last Online: Today 13:00 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Perth	Local push bike shop worked for me. Gear cable which I managed to thread through all the existing housings (took a bit of patience). Secured at the bonnet end with a sawn off pin from a 13amp plug. Old school. 2 years later...still working fine.

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