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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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Auto Transmission Fluid ChangeViews : 70000 Replies : 99Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 21st, 2012, 11:17 | #1 | |
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Auto Transmission Fluid Change
This Post relates to changing the fluid on a GEN3 (2009) XC70. The Gearbox is a 6-Speed Automatic (TF-80SC).
Firstly, a big THANKS to Pete, for his thread in the GEN2 section of this Forum. Details here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=149516 The Gearbox is supposed to be sealed for life, but many owners report changing the fluid and finding a dark sludgy liquid in there after only 50,000 miles (see Pete's thread). My own car is on 58,000 miles, and the fluid was in reasonably good shape, still reddish, and looked OK (but I don't use my car for towing, I always select neutral when stationary, most of my journeys are quite long, and rarely stop-start driving). Preliminary Information
2. The "gibbons method" of flushing where a drain and fill are included in the circuit, and the car's pump moves the oil around, drawing in fresh oil, and dumping old oil. On the Volvo, you remove the line to the transmission oil cooler, and put that to waste, and have another pipe to a container of new oil into the oil cooler, when the car is started the old oil is pumped to waste, and the new oil is drawn into the system.
Tools Needed 4 litres of JWS 3309 Fluid (I managed to only use 3, but see below). Torx 55 bit for filler plug Torx 40 bit for level check plug 17mm hex sump plug tool (like this http://www.moatdirect.co.uk/drain-pl...tool-614-p.asp ) Funnel for Refilling (see my pic below) Torx bit (T30 I think) for Sump Guard Bricks. Procedure I went for a short drive first to warm things up. My drive is on a slight slope, so when I run the front of the car up on some bricks, the car is level, and it gives me slightly more access underneath. First I removed the sump cover (large plastic cover underneath with 8 x TORX fasteners). Then the Air Filter box. It's mounted on 2 rubber holders. I removed the pipe at the front (inlet) first. Then loosened the jubilee clip where the airbox goes into the large pipe along the front of the engine (and sealed both ends with cling film to make sure I didn't drop enything in there). Now loosen the TORX 55 plug (shown here with funnel unserted for refilling): Go under the car, and you'll see a large fastener at the bottom of the gearbox. It's a concentric drain/level plug shown here - the upper picture shows the level-plug (torx 40) and the lower picture shows the 17mm sump drain plug: ^^^ Note the sump drain plug has a "pipe" to the top of it, which sets the level. Have a container (which will hold a minimum of 3 litres) under the drain/level plug now, and catch all the escaping oil so you can measure it later... I removed the level plug first (you have to do this anyway, to allow the 17mm tool to be inserted). When I removed my level plug, around a cupful of oil escaped (engine off, lukewarm, level ground). Now take out the 17mm plug, and catch the escaping oil. Measure the drained oil (mine was exactly 3 litres). Install the drain plug (I didn't use a new washer, but I will next time) and level plug (I didn't install the level plug, and a small amount of new oil escaped when the 2nd litre was filled, before I quickly re-insetred the level plug). Both the level screw and the filler plug have re-useable rubber washers. If you are happy to measure the new oil, and confident you have added the same amount as drained, you may wish to just refill the oil with the same amount as drained, and the level should be correct (see below for the info from VADIS on oil level checking). Using the funnel (as shown in the first image), I refilled exactly the same amount of oil as had drained (3 litres). Torque setings for plugs: Drain Plug 45nm Level Plug 8nm Filler Plug 30nm Once refilled, re-install the filler plug, air filter box, sump guard, job done. Future I'll change the gearbox fluid with a fresh 3 litres every 20k miles I think - from what I have seen that will keep the fluid relatively fresh... Next time, I'll add slightly more than the 3 litres (probably 3.2 litres, so 200ml overfilled), put the vehicle back together (except the sump cover), and perform this level check (from VADIS apparently): Quote:
The car does drive better since the fluid was changed, the gearchange does seem smoother. Last edited by MartinK; Aug 21st, 2012 at 13:12. |
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Sep 5th, 2012, 11:39 | #2 | |
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AFAIAA, there used to be a stop-neutral feature in the control software for the 5 speed but it was removed as it apparently was thought to cause more rather than less gearbox wear over time. This has been well discussed in the Volvo XC forums. Maybe there were other issues too, e.g. probematic valve body problems but I'd understood the stop-neutral feature to be a problem.
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'07 P2 Willow Green XC70 D5 (185), 6 speed Geartronic, SE, As standard. |
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Sep 5th, 2012, 13:16 | #3 |
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Seems to be a much-discussed issue.
There's no suggestion that auto transmission wear is increased if the car is left in D (some people say that moving the selector constantly between N and D in stop-start traffic actually increases wear). However I would assume that because the viscous coupling is engaged and working when D and stationary, that it will increase temperatures, and hence "wear" the oil. So if I'm stationary for more than a few seconds, I select N and put the handbrake on. If it's likely to be more than a minute, I'll also stop the engine. I don't like (and it's not considerate, and contradicts the Highway Code) to sit with my foot on the footbrake giving the people behind a face-full of red brakelights for more than a couple of seconds once stationary. |
Sep 5th, 2012, 15:57 | #4 | |
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Regarding 'D' vs 'N', I don't know but tend to hold in 'D' at idle unless it's likely to be for a longer time (minutes) then I switch off and go to 'P'.
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'07 P2 Willow Green XC70 D5 (185), 6 speed Geartronic, SE, As standard. |
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Sep 5th, 2012, 18:41 | #5 | |
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Quote:
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Sep 6th, 2012, 11:28 | #6 |
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I've always thought of the process of moving from 'N' to 'D' (and back) in an automatic with clutch/brake bands when stationary as being similar to the manual engagement/release of the clutch in a manual when stationary except it is done through servo's and hydraulics . Each time it is performed, there is some wear on the bands so the more often it is performed, the more accumulated wear over many thousands of miles. Replacement of the bands when sufficiently worn to require it is obviously a major operation. Therefore, even if the oil does deteriorate faster if regular and frequent stop/start driving is done without leaving 'D', it is cheaper/easier to replace as and when necessary.
However, my analogy with a manual clutch and my idea of what causes autobox component wear could be completely wrong so I may be unwittingly doing more damage by keeping mine in 'D'. I'm not sure what happens though in a modern automatic fitted with auto engine switch off when stationary/restart when ready to move again as this would also necessitate 'D' to 'N' switching and back.
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'07 P2 Willow Green XC70 D5 (185), 6 speed Geartronic, SE, As standard. Last edited by PeteB1; Sep 6th, 2012 at 11:31. |
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Sep 4th, 2014, 13:00 | #7 |
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I've just followed Martin's excellent guide to do a drop and fill on my 09 V70 D5. Really easy to follow and not that hard to do.
My fluid came out a deep purplish colour so I think it was due. I did have it done by a Volvo Independent specialist back in March 2013 when the car was on 92,000 miles. My only concern is that I've put 3L in but seem to have only collected 2.5L. There was a little bit of spillage but I don't think it could account for 0.5L. The question is, have I overfilled it or has the Indy underfilled it? I'm planning on going for a drive this evening before repeating the process tomorrow so I will see what happens then. Whether the volumes match after I've done another change! |
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Sep 4th, 2014, 14:05 | #8 |
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I would see how the car feels when driving. Hopefully when you repeat the process tomorrow, you'll measure 3L...
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Sep 4th, 2014, 14:47 | #9 |
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Well the plan is to do quite a few miles tonight, see how it drives and get the fluids nice and mixed ready for tomorrow! Given that it's 120k old and only had one drop and fill, I wanna do another and change a lot of the fluid before I start doing yearly/bi yearly drop and fills!
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Sep 4th, 2014, 15:58 | #10 |
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Was the fluid hot when you levelled it, as if it was hot levelled by the Indy, and you cold levelled it, that could possibly account for 0.5l - I'm not sure though.
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