2014 S60 D5 Lux Nav R-Line G/T

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

There is no visible leak. Dealer mentioned about checking levels when cold and warm, which cause change. His advise was to top it up, and if any issues/leak then contact him back.

I’ve purchased a litre of CHF11S, which I’ll top up first thing in the morning. Hopefully it’s just a lack of fluid causing the noise (assuming air in the system due to underfill).

Just fill it to the max line. Don't go above it. Keep your eye on it, but if it drops again, there's definitely a leak somewhere.

Hopefully the fluid sorts it, but I have my doubts. It didn't look low enough in the video for it to be causing a noise. If the fluid has dropped, its got to be going somewhere. It doesn't just disappear. Lol.

[Waqar92]

Had guy who used to work at Volvo pop over. Popped in diagnostics and he said it’s the module most likely or coding. He said the only way to check coding is swap both modules from headlight over and then recode. The other way is obviously replace the module. The only issue is the fact that levelling won’t be correct on the left as it isn’t communicating with the module at all. He said it’s definitely not sensor, as that would throw its own code.

With regards to the sound, he said that the racks are pretty solid on these cars. He mentioned that the rack can only be damaged when changing clutch and inserting the bolt in the incorrect place (which wouldn’t be the case as I have a geartronic). He isolated it down to the CV joints something around that area. He was turning the wheel from right to left and felt the noise coming from the left hand side, with vibration through the pedal. Booked it back with the mechanics again tomorrow and notified him of this, so he will try to check on the ramp.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

Had guy who used to work at Volvo pop over. Popped in diagnostics and he said it’s the module most likely or coding. He said the only way to check coding is swap both modules from headlight over and then recode. The other way is obviously replace the module. The only issue is the fact that levelling won’t be correct on the left as it isn’t communicating with the module at all. He said it’s definitely not sensor, as that would throw its own code.

With regards to the sound, he said that the racks are pretty solid on these cars. He mentioned that the rack can only be damaged when changing clutch and inserting the bolt in the incorrect place (which wouldn’t be the case as I have a geartronic). He isolated it down to the CV joints something around that area. He was turning the wheel from right to left and felt the noise coming from the left hand side, with vibration through the pedal. Booked it back with the mechanics again tomorrow and notified him of this, so he will try to check on the ramp.

Like I said earlier in the thread, without proper diagnosis with a scan tool, it was guesswork as to what the headlight problem was. Now it has been plugged in, you know its either a module or coding.

Hopefully that can be sorted, as well as the noise you're hearing when you turn.

[Waqar92]

I just wanted to check over the coolant on this car. It had a slight off smell when I opened it up after it sitting overnight. I’ve taken a picture of it since I’m not familiar with how the texture should be. Besides the colour, is there something to be concerned about with the look of the coolant in the picture? Was taken with camera flash so excuse the lighting, I’m just looking at the tiny dots. They are not bubbles right?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

I just wanted to check over the coolant on this car. It had a slight off smell when I opened it up after it sitting overnight. I’ve taken a picture of it since I’m not familiar with how the texture should be. Besides the colour, is there something to be concerned about with the look of the coolant in the picture? Was taken with camera flash so excuse the lighting, I’m just looking at the tiny dots. They are not bubbles right?

It doesn't look healthy at all. drain and fill with water and go for a run and do the same again until it drains out clear. then go to your dealer and buy a 4 litre bottle of Genuine Volvo coolant, It is the best you will get and does not need changing unless something contaminates it.

[Waqar92]

Originally Posted by Clan

It doesn't look healthy at all. drain and fill with water and go for a run and do the same again until it drains out clear. then go to your dealer and buy a 4 litre bottle of Genuine Volvo coolant, It is the best you will get and does not need changing unless something contaminates it.

Just purchased some now from Arnold Clark Autoparts for about £25. Should arrive in a few days. I’ll pick some bottles of distilled water from my local Wickes.

With regards to the process, I’ve never worked on a car before. I have seen the following video. Don’t have the car to check (in garage), but where would I find the drain pipe for the coolant? Is it in the same place? Also, using tap water to flush should be ok, before filling with antifreeze and distilled water? Additionally, how do I make sure that all air has been removed from the system? Has he explained correctly in the video?

If there is a step-by-step guide for dummies, that would be even better! Don’t want to miss a crucial step or break something (I.e using wrench on drain lever which I believe is plastic).

https://youtu.be/jBOcJAcrGSo

Thanks

[Waqar92]

Where do I find the transmission dipstick on this vehicle? To have the correct readings, I’ve read that the car has to be running. Is that correct?

[johnnyoro]

Originally Posted by Waqar92

Where do I find the transmission dipstick on this vehicle? To have the correct readings, I’ve read that the car has to be running. Is that correct?

Hi there is no dipstick . The drain plug has a plastic pipe attached to it and a level screw plugs this pipe
You pour oil in through the filler and then run the vehicle through the gears , make sure it is up to temp and then with the car on level ground and the engine running remove the level screw any execss oil stops coming out then refit the level screw

[Waqar92]

Originally Posted by johnnyoro

Hi there is no dipstick . The drain plug has a plastic pipe attached to it and a level screw plugs this pipe
You pour oil in through the filler and then run the vehicle through the gears , make sure it is up to temp and then with the car on level ground and the engine running remove the level screw any execss oil stops coming out then refit the level screw

Thanks for the above. I noticed occasionally if I change to D, there is a slight jolt. It doesn’t happen much but has a few times. Any ideas as to why that could be? Could this be to a lack of service/old oil or is this abnormal?

[Waqar92]

Received car back from mechanics who has fitted new brake disks and pads in the front. I’ll test drive on the motorway today, but on immediate drive the shudder has disappeared which is promising (cost = approximately £200.00).

He can’t find any issues regarding noise. Checked suspected area on front near side suspension but no signs of any abnormality. I’ve just brought some power steering fluid CHF11S which I’ll pour in tomorrow when the levels are correct (cold). I’m not expecting the sound to disappear but can only trial and error.