|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
B20 buildViews : 13713 Replies : 147Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jan 1st, 2016, 17:30 | #41 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Steyning
|
It's nice and cosy building an engine in doors. Conservatory beats garage hands down at this time of year. Made a paper pattern to go over the distributor drive hole so that I could get the drive slot spot on at 35 degrees. Also trial fitted my front pulley and timing cover and used a dial gauge to get a spot on tdc for marking up my new aluminium pulley. Three Pistons in now and simon trying to get me rings for the fourth. Noticed that the new big end shells are significantly wider than the old ones.
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Amazonjulian For This Useful Post: |
Jan 2nd, 2016, 15:12 | #42 |
Master Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2016 19:28
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Seattle
|
Very nice work!
|
Jan 7th, 2016, 18:42 | #43 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Steyning
|
Replacing those missing rings has been harder than I thought but Fredrik at KG Triming has come up with the goods and has sold me the rings for one piston.
I wanted to check a couple of other things out with you gents if I may. My plan was to stick with the original exhaust manifold... I know people say they are pretty good but I'm open to ideas. Have any of you fitted a tubular manifold and if so would you recommend it and where would you buy it from? Secondly, it's some years since I did a complet engine build like this. When I did, I put a thin smear of grease on the head gasket before fitting it. Is this still the way to go? I noticed my new gasket has a slightly sticky surface in any case. I'd be glad of thoughts on these points. Cheers Julian |
Jan 7th, 2016, 19:42 | #44 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Feb 18th, 2017 15:16
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: essex
|
Leave the gasket as is, nothing else needed.
I was going to leave my manifold, but the sealing edge was too far gone corrosion wise, so went with Simons right the way through, so far so good. Check the head bolt clearance too, make sure the bolt holes are clean, the tolerance is quite tight. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Hat For This Useful Post: |
Jan 7th, 2016, 20:31 | #45 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 12:17
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
As long as it's not one of the emissions type manifolds with the extra butterflies etc the combined cast iron one for the B20 is excellent up to about 145bhp with your existing SU's. Although I'm sure that Fredrik would be happy to sell you a 4-2-1 manifold I think he would also agree that the there would be no improvement on a modest standard engine. With a price of £150-250 for the manifold I think that you can find something better to spend the money on. It would pay for your lead free head conversion for a start.
|
Jan 7th, 2016, 20:34 | #46 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 21:36
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anglesey
|
To give advice on what the best tubular manifold would be I need to know a bit more about the engine spec. What cam and what headwork has been done also what carburation does it have.
Also are you looking for power high up the rev band or more low down power? The twin outlet cast manifold is not bad but a tubular manifold does offer some gain |
Jan 7th, 2016, 20:57 | #47 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 8th, 2019 07:02
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Steyning
|
Thanks for your thoughts. Derek - I'm not expecting more than 145 BHP. Dai it's a 2130 cc engine with a KG 10 camshaft and a B20 e head which has had some work improving the CFM by 9%. I'm not into spending money for its sake but given the effort I've gone to, I don't want to miss any tricks this close to the finish. If there's little improvement to be had over the cast iron, I'll happily stick with it.
|
Jan 7th, 2016, 21:03 | #48 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 21:36
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anglesey
|
Fitting a free flowing exhaust makes a massive differnce. The manifold just give that tiny bit extra
For high rpm power use the 4-1 manifold For better low down and mid range go with a 4-2-1 The main reason I use the tubular manifolds is to reduce exhaust noise and stop the popping on overrun you get withthe cast manifold For mild steel you are looking at spending £200 -250 or around £350 for stainless |
Jan 7th, 2016, 21:20 | #49 | |
VOC Member
Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 11:57
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: fareham
|
Quote:
Well made, reasonsble cost and reputedly one of the better manifolds. Does have nice bends with no necking Its been on for 7 years and have had no issues. I like KG stuff snd Frederik is very helpful. Russ Last edited by tdz840; Jan 7th, 2016 at 21:23. |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to tdz840 For This Useful Post: |
Jan 8th, 2016, 06:18 | #50 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Oct 4th, 2023 06:43
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Banbury
|
If you do stick with the cast manifold make sure the mating surface is flat and true.They tend to bow a little after time and can blow manifold gaskets.Its difficult to find someone with a large enough linishing machine to flatten it,but a large sheet of coarse emery on some plate glass will do,though time consuming.
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|