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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Refurb Of Suspension Arms, Protection After Electrolysis??Views : 410 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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#1 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 22:13
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
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Hi,
In process of refurbishing some spare suspension struts and arms prior to rebushing. Just realised I've started this without getting all my stuff together!!! I have a pair of arms due to come out of electrolysis bath this afternoon. Due to blundering in on this project, Im now faced with protecting the arms from flash rusting, and of course I've only now thought about getting paints etc to hand..... Concern is that I understand you have a couple of hours after coming out of electrolysis to bake to aid removal of hydrogen embrittlement. If I pull them out today, bake in the oven, they're going to flash rust till I sort my stuff out. Or do I leave in the bath with the charger turned off, and bake once I have sorted the paints out?? Other option is to pull them out and scrub today, then quick dip again followed by bake in the oven when I have paints to hand?? Are multiple dips bad from an embrittlement point of view?? Probably intend to do etch primer, followed by satin chassis black. Any suggestions most appreciated, Cheers Steve |
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#2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:41
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lenzie
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My powder coat guy highly recommended an etch primer to use to stop flash rusting. I bought two tins and never used it
I'll have a look at it when i get in tonight
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V70 D5 SE Geartronic 215bhp Saville Grey 2012MY 940 LPT Manual 1996 740 SE 1990 |
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#3 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:48
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Gloucester
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I should have thought you could get a tin of suitable etch primer from a trade outlet or even DIY store in time to treat the items.
Fair play for doing this. When I had some suspension items to restore I just paid to have them sand-blasted and powder coated. |
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#4 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 19:44
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE
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I use Jenolite (liquid) rust remover & treatment- this also leaves a rust protecting coat in place ready for painting: this will delay flash rusting.
Red Oxide next- either sprayed or brushed on. You can etch prime as the next stage if you wish. Top coat all the above with your choice of paint- Chassis Black is fine. Regards Bob. (One of my cars has just turned '68 so seems ok!) |
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#5 | |
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Last Online: Yesterday 23:41
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lenzie
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V70 D5 SE Geartronic 215bhp Saville Grey 2012MY 940 LPT Manual 1996 740 SE 1990 |
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#6 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 22:13
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
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Many thanks for all suggestions, and think I’ll knock off a bit early today, and get them baked for a few hours and then coat with some etch primer that I’ll have to pick up on way home.
Then I can do topcoats on all parts once all arms are primed. Oh if only I had actually planned and got paints first!! Cheers Steve |
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#7 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jun 16th, 2024 19:56
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Holywood
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I use the following process for acid or electrolysis removal
1. Scrub the part down under the tap 2. Dry off with paper towel and leave to full dry in normal room temp. 3. Remove any remaining rust with wire brush drill 4. Coat with zinc paint (not zinc primer), either Zinga or other galvanising paint (don't coat any machined hard metal joining surfaces, like where bushes push in). 5. Coat with 2 part epoxy mastic |
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