Engine: B5244: Timing Belt

[Tulip0852]

Hi,

After being quoted 200 odd quid by my local garage to have my timing belt renewed I'm gonna try to do it myself. Even more so that I have the kit already.
Now here's my question. I've changed the aux belt not so long ago and found that fitting the new one was a bit of a job regarding the space available eventhough I put the coolant and the power steering reservoirs out of the way as per Haynes manual. As I'm a bit of a stocky guy with thick arms it would be a lot better to take the computers out. My question is, can you just pull them out, after disconnecting the battery first, with out any problems?

Any input graetly appreciated.

Rob

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Tulip0852

Hi,

After being quoted 200 odd quid by my local garage to have my timing belt renewed I'm gonna try to do it myself. Even more so that I have the kit already.
Now here's my question. I've changed the aux belt not so long ago and found that fitting the new one was a bit of a job regarding the space available eventhough I put the coolant and the power steering reservoirs out of the way as per Haynes manual. As I'm a bit of a stocky guy with thick arms it would be a lot better to take the computers out. My question is, can you just pull them out, after disconnecting the battery first, with out any problems?

Any input graetly appreciated.

Rob

no they are securely mechanicaly locked in , a volvo special tool is needed to unlock them. ( stops a thief swaping the ecu to one which has security disabled )

[Lancee]

If you try to do this on the cheap it could ultimately prove to be very expensive.
I know that £200.00 is an awful lot of money to a good many people, but it is an awful lot less than the cost of a replacement Volvo engine.

It's only my own humble, possibly flawed opinion, but unless you are absolutely confident in your ability, pay the money.

[ShadeTek]

I paid £96 for a Gates belt and Ina rollers/tensioner and did the job myself but it was a tad stressful with the VVT cam at one point. For £100 to have it fitted is not that bad.

[Tulip0852]

Thanks guys, that answers my question.

Cheers, Rob

[bublnsqueak]

Good question though Rob!

I just did mine (amongst other things) and the casing for the computer scratched me all up my forearms. I'd tape up the sharp bits next time.

I have not done any engine work since I was a kid so I was a bit daunted. But I found it quite easy once I'd done it once.

The bit I needed help with was getting the 30mm nut off the end of the crank; borrowed an air impact driver in the end.

Line up the marks. Find a way to lock everything in place and change the belt.

I bought a kit with an idler pulley and a tensioner. Its worth spending a few minutes getting your head around how the tensioner works on the bench before putting it in the car and adjusting it by feel.

Turn it over by hand a few times, flick the switch a few times then fire her up!

Have fun
Paul

[Marmitespreader]

The bit I needed help with was getting the 30mm nut off the end of the crank; borrowed an air impact driver in the end.

(Sorry for the hijack, Rob)

Hi Paul
Hope you dont mind a querry.
Is the 30mm nut on the damper a left hand thread or right handed?
Cheers Jim

[RiPsTa33]

Right hand thread

[timh30]

You don't need to remove the crank pulley to change the timing belt. You can slide the old one out and new one in through the gap (can't remember exact details as it was a few years back).

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by timh30

You don't need to remove the crank pulley to change the timing belt. You can slide the old one out and new one in through the gap (can't remember exact details as it was a few years back).

I did this too. You have to cut the old belt off then push the belt around the 3 hidden lugs behind the crank and wangle them.