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Volvo XC70 2006 transmission issue

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Old May 27th, 2022, 11:57   #11
amazighman
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Originally Posted by stuart bowes View Post
not silly at all, it's not immediately obvious and I've seen it asked a number of times

I jack up on the subframe bolt plates (under the bulkhead) and I put axle stands under the subframe rails

I've heard others say they jack up the whole front end using the front end of the subframe below the radiator but I was scared off doing that by once hearing someone say it slipped and they punched through the rad with the jack.. for 5 minutes more of your time it doesn't seem worth the risk to me

ramps are probably easier and safer if you have them because the wheels aren't coming off and you'll get a decent height

obviously also chock your back wheels (sucking eggs lesson no doubt)

software I'm guessing probably not much more than £20 or so but it's the labour cost where they'll get you, probably around £100-120 all in? unless someone else comes along and corrects me on that. ring dealer and ask I guess
I have an oil pump , would that work to suck out all the old fluid using the fill hole in the engine bay?
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Old May 27th, 2022, 12:22   #12
Bonefishblues
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Now you've done it!

This will divide opinion, I'm sure

...into the "yes. I've always done it that way"

...and no, it won't get any gunk from to bottom out.

Popcorn please
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Old May 27th, 2022, 12:35   #13
stuart bowes
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^ that pretty much answers your question lol
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Old May 27th, 2022, 12:42   #14
Bonefishblues
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Being serious though - I'd do 2 things. I wouldn't change the oil until I'd verified that the trans dump had 'worked' to an acceptable degree and you were going to keep the car. (Because tightwad Northern Bloke)

If yes, then I'd do a proper, from the bottom oil change, just to be sure everything's out - and then from subsequent changes I'd be happy to do the sucky thing.
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Old May 27th, 2022, 13:08   #15
amazighman
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Being serious though - I'd do 2 things. I wouldn't change the oil until I'd verified that the trans dump had 'worked' to an acceptable degree and you were going to keep the car. (Because tightwad Northern Bloke)

If yes, then I'd do a proper, from the bottom oil change, just to be sure everything's out - and then from subsequent changes I'd be happy to do the sucky thing.
Sump dump it is.
Old fluid isn't good in any case , but would it be the cause of all the harsh shifting when warm
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Old May 27th, 2022, 13:29   #16
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You can get more fluid out if you raise the left side ramp higher than the right.
Also, if this is your first go, don't skimp on the catch tray. Get a bigger one as warm fluid gushes far out when the plug is cleared. A cheap, small dish won't be enough.
I'm all for saving effort with suction removal methods etc. but you want the velocity....if only for psychological reasons. Seriously, I bought one of these cars which the previous owner had parked nose down on and extremely inclined drive. During our chat he invited me to do a transmission drain & fill right there. I gathered my gear and did it at his place in that inclined spot.
The mud which flowed out of that transmission is something I'll never forget.

It was so dirty (looked more like brown mud than black/red fluid) I drove the car a bunch and did another the next day. That sounds extravagant compared to the time honored advice of waiting 1,2,3 weeks or 200, 400 miles etc. between D&Fs but mine was that dirty. I did the third a month or so later.


If your drained fluid is 'reasonable looking', how you proceed is a decision you'll have to make with spotty, anecdotal advice from people here.
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Old May 27th, 2022, 13:53   #17
amazighman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgeandkira View Post
You can get more fluid out if you raise the left side ramp higher than the right.
Also, if this is your first go, don't skimp on the catch tray. Get a bigger one as warm fluid gushes far out when the plug is cleared. A cheap, small dish won't be enough.
I'm all for saving effort with suction removal methods etc. but you want the velocity....if only for psychological reasons. Seriously, I bought one of these cars which the previous owner had parked nose down on and extremely inclined drive. During our chat he invited me to do a transmission drain & fill right there. I gathered my gear and did it at his place in that inclined spot.
The mud which flowed out of that transmission is something I'll never forget.

It was so dirty (looked more like brown mud than black/red fluid) I drove the car a bunch and did another the next day. That sounds extravagant compared to the time honored advice of waiting 1,2,3 weeks or 200, 400 miles etc. between D&Fs but mine was that dirty. I did the third a month or so later.


If your drained fluid is 'reasonable looking', how you proceed is a decision you'll have to make with spotty, anecdotal advice from people here.
Was the fluid in your case changed as prevention or the transmission is shifting harsh?

The 10 litres drum of ATF I ordered is coming Monday , but I have some Toyota type IV fluid , I heard its also jws3309 compatible

Last edited by amazighman; May 27th, 2022 at 14:15.
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Old May 28th, 2022, 14:35   #18
Georgeandkira
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The '03 with the mud in the trannie pan drove (shifted) well. The vehicle having ~120K is why I changed it. I was making the case for unscrewing the plug and draining the sump in 10 seconds rather than sipping through a straw for 45 minutes.

I'd add the 10 oz. bottle of LubeGard (red bottle) to any of these units once the fluid was cleaned up.

This stuff was recommended to me and a hiccoughey transmission -the fluid of which had been completely replaced as an attempted fix- was greatly improved.
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Old May 30th, 2022, 10:58   #19
amazighman
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Just did a fluid drain on the XC70 TF80SC box.

Surprised only got 2.5L out , was expecting 3L or more , Is this too low or just refill with 2.5L fresh ATF.

Fluid was dark
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Old May 30th, 2022, 12:49   #20
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When I've done drain and fill on my XC gearbox its varied between 2.3 - 2.7 litres. I decided the difference could be attributed to a combination of the angle of the car - I jacked it up on one side and not always to the same extent, and the temperature of the oil/gearbox. As long as you refill with the same quantity you take out you should be in the ballpark as to correct level.
I've done a couple of changes using this method in the last few weeks which has improved the downshifting when hot. I'll do another change in a couple of weeks and that time follow the VIDA proceedure of getting the oil hot,the car level and then draining any excess from the level plug with the engine running.
I did the first change( as far as I know) on mine at about 130K and the oil was very dark. It's still not perfect but after 5 drain and fills the oil is now more of a brownish red rather than a blackish brown!
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