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How to remove broken lock nut/lug nut?

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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 17:58   #1
VolvoRob38
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Question How to remove broken lock nut/lug nut?

Hi guys,

Got a major wrestle going on here trying to remove a broken locking nut/ lug nut, and need some tips how to get the thing off.

Mcguard have offered to send me the drill bits and the drills to remove it on loan as long as I promise to send it back to Germany. Fair play to them but I don't really want the cost of sending it back and so I'm trying to remove it myself first before or taking their option as a last Resort.

I've tried hammering a 24 mm socket piece over the nut and gently turn it in the hope it it loosens it as I've seen some success with this method on YouTube. But unfortunately there is a round bezel on the nut which turns preventing this from working.

I am now trying to drill sections of the nut and hitting it with a flat head screwdriver and lump hammer which is breaking it up but this thing still remains intact. Plus I don't know what these are made out but they just simply Blunt normal metal drill bits and so have used a hard plate diamond-tipped drill bit which made a Dent but even that's snapped after 30 seconds.

I was going to go and get several diamond-tipped drill bits tomorrow to have a good go at it but I am open to any other suggestions if anyone has successfully done this before.

Cheers. 😴
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Last edited by VolvoRob38; Jun 11th, 2021 at 18:03.
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 18:34   #2
Wgl2020
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I would just contact a local tyre fitting place, they will have the correct tool to get that off.

If all else fails weld a big nut on and use that to get some torque on it.
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 19:40   #3
cheshired5
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I drilled mine and it took several hours, working from smaller to larger drill bits.

I then later realised that if I'd removed the set back spinning collar with a sharp punch and hammer, I could have fitted an off the shelf reverse thread removal tool socket and impacted it off. The spinning collars will break away quite easily with accurate blows.

My design of bolt may be different though.
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 20:07   #4
VolvoRob38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshired5 View Post
I drilled mine and it took several hours, working from smaller to larger drill bits.

I then later realised that if I'd removed the set back spinning collar with a sharp punch and hammer, I could have fitted an off the shelf reverse thread removal tool socket and impacted it off. The spinning collars will break away quite easily with accurate blows.

My design of bolt may be different though.
When you drilled yours did you drill the threaded stud attached to the hub as well? Im trying to avoid drilling that as well.

Ive just watched a YouTube video of a guy breaking off the spinning shroud. I tried it before but I broke my screwdriver and then broke an old chisel, hitting them with a lump hammer. Bloody tough lol

I'll have another go tomorrow...
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 21:38   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoRob38 View Post
When you drilled yours did you drill the threaded stud attached to the hub as well?
No. From memory the largest drill was 14mm so wider than the stud.
Once the drill reached the stud there was nothing left of the coned part so that fell away and the job was done.
It can't be emphasised enough how the drill needs stay dead centre to do the job efficiently and without damaging surrounding areas.
The McGard kit comes with special sockets with ever increasing hole sizes to keep each of the drill bits dead centre.

If you're even 1mm out, you'll miss separating the cone at the earliest opportunity and continue to drill unnecessarily into the stud and risk damaging the wheel.
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Old Jun 12th, 2021, 16:48   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshired5 View Post
No. From memory the largest drill was 14mm so wider than the stud.
Once the drill reached the stud there was nothing left of the coned part so that fell away and the job was done.
It can't be emphasised enough how the drill needs stay dead centre to do the job efficiently and without damaging surrounding areas.
The McGard kit comes with special sockets with ever increasing hole sizes to keep each of the drill bits dead centre.

If you're even 1mm out, you'll miss separating the cone at the earliest opportunity and continue to drill unnecessarily into the stud and risk damaging the wheel.
The guys at McGard have said that the drill will dril out the broken lock nut as well as the threaded part attached to the hub, and that I will need to replace that myself afterwards.
I think I might be OK though because today I managed to get the spinning ring off using a ground down metal punch and lump hammer. Im now left with the thread and cone parts. On a YouTube video the guy uses a 13/16 socket piece hammered over the top to get the rest undone. But I tried 19mm, too tight, 13/16(20.63mm) is not tight enough. Ive tried gluing it on now with some super strong metal to metal adhesive. Personally I dont think its going to work. So my options are; 19.5mm socket wedged over the top, or a better option is a bolt extractor for rounded bolts, something my garage might have. Booking in for MOT Monday so perfect timing.
Getting rid of these stupid locking nuts going forward though, what a waste of time!!! Lol
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Old Jun 16th, 2021, 12:47   #7
big yinn
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Stop.
Get in touch with your local mobile tyre fitters. Find one that has a Dynomec security wheel nut removing kit and use them.
I had exactly the same nut as you and it took him 10 minutes to get it off. No damage to the rim or studs. Cost me £30, which I was happy to pay.
I then removed the other security nuts and replaced them with standard wheelnuts.
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Old Jun 16th, 2021, 16:07   #8
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoRob38 View Post
The guys at McGard have said that the drill will dril out the broken lock nut as well as the threaded part attached to the hub, and that I will need to replace that myself afterwards.
I think I might be OK though because today I managed to get the spinning ring off using a ground down metal punch and lump hammer. Im now left with the thread and cone parts. On a YouTube video the guy uses a 13/16 socket piece hammered over the top to get the rest undone. But I tried 19mm, too tight, 13/16(20.63mm) is not tight enough. Ive tried gluing it on now with some super strong metal to metal adhesive. Personally I dont think its going to work. So my options are; 19.5mm socket wedged over the top, or a better option is a bolt extractor for rounded bolts, something my garage might have. Booking in for MOT Monday so perfect timing.
Getting rid of these stupid locking nuts going forward though, what a waste of time!!! Lol

Volvo ditched that type 11 years ago , the new replacement ones are italian and have never given a problem since ...
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Old Jun 16th, 2021, 16:24   #9
cheshired5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoRob38 View Post
The guys at McGard have said that the drill will dril out the broken lock nut as well as the threaded part attached to the hub, and that I will need to replace that myself afterwards.
Ok, that makes sense if you have nuts onto studs.
You'll need to replace the bearing assembly or try to fit new studs which adds further complication and expense
.
I have bolts hence no further damage or repair was required.
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