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244GL 1981 getting back on the road

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Old Jun 9th, 2021, 13:04   #11
dmw244gl
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Thanks yes i found that site which is cool.

the carburetta really could do with a overhaul kit ( jets /diathram Ect) . Just to make it run better , been told.
also it has a crack in the following part circled, but not manage to find that or the jets yet.

i also did find out it was built in 1980
Car completed. 14 November 1980
Country of delivery Marlow, UK
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Old Jun 9th, 2021, 13:17   #12
Laird Scooby
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Just an update so far,

given the car a service.
cambelt, waterpump , plugs and oil, sorted timing out,

and replaced the faulty water pump and got it taxed and on the road.

just need to find a carb repair kit for it now and one adapter to get a headlight wiper blade back on the car, got 3 spare wipers just no adapter to attach it on.
If you have the Pierbug (deliberate typo!) carb, remove it, either clean and polish it and put it on your mantelpiece or file it in the round filing cabinet commonlly known as the bin!

Invest a bit of money in a Weber conversion, it will pay back in reliability and economy.

https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/w...s-manual-choke

I believe they also do a 32/36DGV conversion, progressive twin-chokes instead of sequential, depends what you want really.
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Old Jun 9th, 2021, 16:55   #13
dmw244gl
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hi thanks, that's very rich for my blood.

but this is something im doing for my uncle, to get back on the road so we can sell it to provide him some funds really, his not very well.

but thanks for the information.
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Old Jun 9th, 2021, 17:57   #14
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Originally Posted by dmw244gl View Post
Thanks yes i found that site which is cool.

the carburetta really could do with a overhaul kit ( jets /diathram Ect) . Just to make it run better , been told.
also it has a crack in the following part circled, but not manage to find that or the jets yet.

i also did find out it was built in 1980
Car completed. 14 November 1980
Country of delivery Marlow, UK
There is not much wrong with the Pierburg 175CD as long as it is adjusted properly, this link should take you to the Volvo green book covering the carburettors (it covers all the makes, but they are quite similar):

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...el_Systems.pdf

... before you start spending big bucks on new parts I'd suggest going through the setup scheme to make sure everything is adjusted properly. I'd be surprised if the jets themselves were worn enough to upset things, it is more likely that one of the soft parts like the diaphragm or a gasket is leaking air. The jets probably just need blowing through with compressed air. If that doesn't solve the problem then getting the service kit from Brookhouse Parts for £45 would be sensible.

I'm not sure which part is cracked on your car, here is a photo of what the top of the carburettor is supposed to look like:



- you should be able to identify the cracked bit from the Volvo green book, once you have a part number tracking a replacement down should be much easier.

I understand what you mean about getting the car going to help your uncle: in that case you don't want to spend too much. The biggest benefit will be getting it looking smart (clean) and running properly.

It is good news that the car was registered in 1980 - as long as the V5 says that you should be able to register the car as an Historic Vehicle and so qualify for exemption from tax now (it will already be exempt from the MoT). The details of how you do that are here:



... so get yourself down to the post office with the V5 saying it was registered in November 1980, the insurance and an exemption from MoT declaration (V112). That will increase the value of your uncle's car from whatever it is now by between 50 and 100%.

Good fortune.

Alan
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Last edited by Othen; Jun 9th, 2021 at 18:26. Reason: Spelling error.
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Old Jun 15th, 2021, 09:37   #15
dmw244gl
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Thanks for the information and the break down pdf.

i think its the top cover of the carb that has the crack, im waiting to find out.
but cant see a part number in the pdf for that.


the mechanic does thing its the jet

"my judgment the base jet is worn ..making it impossible to control fuel delivery ..with the timing not correct and the Dwel angle changing all the time (base screw cross threaded in distributor) not holding the points correctly in position"

on the historic front, the dvla wont accept a email from the Volvo museum about age.
they advise the heritage place in uk, which doesn't do volvo stuff had to laugh.
they accept glasses guide, but not sure how that works.
so sort of stuck at the moment or just have to accept and wait til april next year.
i did try my luck and sent it all off but it didnt get done

i think my carb i slightly different as looks like this
hole more in the center
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Old Jun 15th, 2021, 14:33   #16
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Bugjam thanks for the message, i cannot send pms until i have posted 30 times.
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Old Jun 18th, 2021, 16:23   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw244gl View Post
the mechanic does thing its the jet

"my judgment the base jet is worn ..making it impossible to control fuel delivery ..with the timing not correct and the Dwel angle changing all the time (base screw cross threaded in distributor) not holding the points correctly in position"

on the historic front, the dvla wont accept a email from the Volvo museum about age.
they advise the heritage place in uk, which doesn't do volvo stuff had to laugh.
they accept glasses guide, but not sure how that works.
so sort of stuck at the moment or just have to accept and wait til april next year.
i did try my luck and sent it all off but it didnt get done
One thing at a time: you will have to make sure the motor has a reliable spark and the correct timing before you can adjust the carburettor. By the base screw in the distributor do you mean the clamp that locks it in place? If so probably the best thing to do would be to remove the distributor, drill that shaft out 1mm, re-tap and fit a new bolt. Once that is done and you have adjusted the points gap and timing it would make sense to follow the carburettor set up schema.

Ah, so your V5 says the car was first registered in 1981 (I think I did ask that above). In that case I'd say there would be no point whatsoever trying to change it now - the 1981 cars will qualify for historic status in 10 months time and it will take the the behemoth that is the DVLA much longer than that to make a change. The motor car will be MoT exempt from its 40th anniversary (to the day), which already makes it more attractive, and the tax between now and April is only about £200.

Best wishes with the car - it would be nice to see a few photos when it is complete. Well done for doing the right thing by your uncle.

Alan
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Last edited by Othen; Jun 18th, 2021 at 16:28. Reason: Spelling error.
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Old Jun 18th, 2021, 16:47   #18
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw244gl View Post
Thanks for the information and the break down pdf.

i think its the top cover of the carb that has the crack, im waiting to find out.
but cant see a part number in the pdf for that.


the mechanic does thing its the jet

"my judgment the base jet is worn ..making it impossible to control fuel delivery ..with the timing not correct and the Dwel angle changing all the time (base screw cross threaded in distributor) not holding the points correctly in position"
The jet in the carb is in the lower body of the carb and from what you said earlier, the needle had come out of the piston - the piston rises and falls in relation to airflow into the engine and manifold depression, hence the CD in the carb designation denoting "Constant Depression".

You need to get the ignition correct before you start meddling with the jet and needle in the carb. Most common cause of the dwell angle changing all the time is wear in the bushes in the distributor (that's bushes NOT brushes!) that the main distributor shaft runs in. It's a common problem with those era of Bosch distributors.

If some muppet has cross-threaded the contact breaker screws in the dizzy base-plate, you need new screws minimum. Then remove the base-plate and re-tap the holes (correct size) and hope that cures it, if not, you need a new base-plate.

That said, your better option for the long term would be to obtain a dizzy from a later 240 with electronic ignition (Hall Effect) with the sensor in the dizzy, the ignition amp module and convert it, no need to worry about contact breakers then or a varying dwell angle. This is a fairly common upgrade/modification (i believe Alan has it on his RB) so there should be information somewhere on the forum exactly how to do it.
Failing that, a reconditioned dizzy.

A question though - is your mechanic monitoring the dwell angle with the engine running while trying to adjust the carb? If so he's over-analysing things as the dwell angle naturally changes with engine speed/load courtesy of the mechanical advance weights and also the vacuum advance mechanism. Dwell angle should be checked/adjusted while cranking the engine, not with it running.

Also if he's not familiar with that particular carb, he could be adjusting it the wrong way from the start.. The throttle butterfly is factory set and shouldn't be altered, there is an idle air volume screw to adjust the idle speed and then the mixture is adjusted with another screw.
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Old Jun 18th, 2021, 17:42   #19
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The jet in the carb is in the lower body of the carb and from what you said earlier, the needle had come out of the piston - the piston rises and falls in relation to airflow into the engine and manifold depression, hence the CD in the carb designation denoting "Constant Depression".

You need to get the ignition correct before you start meddling with the jet and needle in the carb. Most common cause of the dwell angle changing all the time is wear in the bushes in the distributor (that's bushes NOT brushes!) that the main distributor shaft runs in. It's a common problem with those era of Bosch distributors.

If some muppet has cross-threaded the contact breaker screws in the dizzy base-plate, you need new screws minimum. Then remove the base-plate and re-tap the holes (correct size) and hope that cures it, if not, you need a new base-plate.

That said, your better option for the long term would be to obtain a dizzy from a later 240 with electronic ignition (Hall Effect) with the sensor in the dizzy, the ignition amp module and convert it, no need to worry about contact breakers then or a varying dwell angle. This is a fairly common upgrade/modification (i believe Alan has it on his RB) so there should be information somewhere on the forum exactly how to do it.
Failing that, a reconditioned dizzy.

A question though - is your mechanic monitoring the dwell angle with the engine running while trying to adjust the carb? If so he's over-analysing things as the dwell angle naturally changes with engine speed/load courtesy of the mechanical advance weights and also the vacuum advance mechanism. Dwell angle should be checked/adjusted while cranking the engine, not with it running.

Also if he's not familiar with that particular carb, he could be adjusting it the wrong way from the start.. The throttle butterfly is factory set and shouldn't be altered, there is an idle air volume screw to adjust the idle speed and then the mixture is adjusted with another screw.
Ah! Dave may well be right in referring to the little screws that hold the CB points in place rather than the clamp bolt. Either way the solution is the same (and essential): tap the thread and replace the screws. You really must make sure the ignition timing is spot on before it is worth meddling with the carburettor set up. There no way your mechanic could diagnose a worn jet if the timing is not set properly.

Once the timing is right, I'd still advocate that you set the carburettor up from scratch as per pp 67-72 of the green book I sent you previously, the first page of the schema looks like this:



... it really is quite simple if one is methodical. I always find that eliminating one thing at a time is more productive than a mechanic guessing at worn jets and so on. If you follow your mechanics guesswork you may well have to pay for half a dozen things to be fixed before you happen upon the right one by chance.

Have you checked the motor is well operating mechanically? I think you mentioned that you had changed the cam belt (well done), but did you check the valve clearances (easy job) and cylinder compression (another easy job)? If you did not then it would be really sensible to take a step back and check those two items first (about an hour's work for both) before looking for spurious leaky jets.

Well done - just be methodical, eliminate one thing at a time and you will soon work out what is wrong.

Alan
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Last edited by Othen; Jun 18th, 2021 at 20:06. Reason: Spelling error.
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Old Jun 21st, 2021, 11:42   #20
dmw244gl
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thanks for the info

here is a picture of the carb i have, sorry for slow replies, in the middle of packing up my house for a house move.
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File Type: jpg carb244a.jpg (140.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg carb244b.jpg (108.6 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg carb244c.jpg (78.5 KB, 8 views)
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