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760 GLE Head Gasket ?

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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 20:51   #1
Chrisbc
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Default 760 GLE Head Gasket ?

We have a 760 GLE 2.8 v6 estate (1989)
Recentley, all the cooling hoses have been renewed and all was well

Now she is drinking water like a camel, but no visible leaks from any hoses/radiator/water pump etc.

When "dry" wont start or if running cuts out, am I right in thinking there is some sort of overheat cut off system? I seem to recall seeing this in the 1988 press release

The only other symptoms are a bit of oilysludge in the V between the heads ( I had cleaned this out) and the water in the expansion bottle is a bit oily, but that could be the residue of a radiator sealer that went through

I have a horrible feeling its head gaskets, but any other ideas would be welcome
Also, if it is the head gaskets, on a scale of 1 - 10 in nastiness, how bad a job is this?

Many thanks

Chris
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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 21:10   #2
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10 ! take it into formula cars down your way they can advise you in person ..
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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 21:20   #3
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Hi Chris,
Just changed a head gasket on our 1985 V6 B28E 760.
When the gasket goes only over heating may occur. This is due to the pressure from the engine getting into the water cooling system and forcing the water out through the plastic filling bottle. We had no "oil and water mix" as used to be the case.
Assuming it is the head gasket. We managed to do the job with little experience. lessons learn't...
Take photos regulary. Sometime the simplist part to remove may be the most difficult to work out which way it went. Use masking tape to lable rather then little tags.
We had the misfortune to break one head bolt. Be very careful when removing these.
Get a full gasket kit if poss as you may well need a few more seals etc than first thought.
Order new head bolts before starting the job. we had to reuse some old ones as only 4 were available instead of the 8 req'd.
We used after market parts.
Have the radiator and head checked and serviced by experts.
I would do the job again.
lets hope is it not the gasket but if engine ran dry it would have over heated..
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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 22:11   #4
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There is no cut out device .

If it wont run "dry" , i assume thats empty of coolant , then try to find out why , a compression test may help .
An often overlooked point is the cylinder liner height . these are adjustable with paper washers under the liners , they can sink over the years causing the head gasket to repeatedly fail with no obvious cause . Best at least measure how far the liners are above the face of the block ... Its not a job you want to repeat ...
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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 22:19   #5
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Default 760 gle

On a scale of 1 to 10 of replacing the head gasket i'd say it's a 4 provided you're handy with a spanner if not then its a 6 only made easier by the V6 engine so each manifold is fairly easy to get to only problems I had when I had my 760 were the two rear exhaust manifold bolts bit of a nuisance to get to otherwise everything comes appart easily. You will need a new set of headbolts to refit it
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Old Nov 16th, 2009, 22:34   #6
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you will also need the special tools to hold the camshaft pulleys/chains up,also the wiring loom insulation across the engine will be brittle and crumble,be sure you remember were every wire goes,done a few years ago and to be honest not too bad a job,just takes time.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 00:47   #7
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I bought the special tool but in the end it was not of much help.
If you get the full gasket kit you will have rocker cover gaskets for both sides and timing cover gaskests.
You will also have the crankshaft seal rubber ring. always good to replace if you can.
If you decide to check all valve clearences then that means removing both rocker covers. If you don't remove the timing cover you end up with the top half of the gasket exposed. To remove the timing cover may add 2hrs to the job but have a more complete fix and new gaskets/seals all round. The cam shaft chain can just be retained with cable ties and the chain tensioner is very easy to adjust release.
Apart from having the radiator and head professionaly checked our only cost was head bolts and the gasket set. Except for tools but they should last...
Our head bolts were UK3.00 each and the gasket set about UK100.00 but included both sides. We did buy hoses but you have just replaced these.
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Old Nov 17th, 2009, 07:28   #8
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Hello
I took my 1988 Volvo 760 GLE V6 to a local mechanic to repair an engine head gasket. I purchased genuine Volvo replacement gaskets which were installed. The mechanic told me that the engine had been tested and ran well for several hours. I was then told that I needed a new fuel pump because the engine started but refused to run. I purchased the new fuel pump which was installed. Now, I am told that I need a new computer. The car did not have these problems before I took it in for repair. Am I being taken? What can I check? Is there a pattern I can follow to determine the problem?

Thank you.
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Old Nov 18th, 2009, 18:39   #9
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Thank you all for your replies and advice.
I shall do some examinations this weekend
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Old Nov 20th, 2009, 15:46   #10
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I may have saved myself some grief, I have found the leak, from the LH spigot on the LH head to the thermostat hosing - if that makes sense. One of the mounting bolts seems to have lost its nuthead so will need to be extracted and a new bolt and gasket - well I hope so anyway

Found this by filling the system with water, and running on a fast tickover for 10 mins or so and a chance to check things in daylight
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