240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Definitely looks better with the front side windows as standard Alan, i take it they have a factory tint on them anyway?

I'm seriously considering tinting the back windows on my beast but nothing as dark as yours, just a light-green tint film and as they're already green tinted from the factory, the idea/hope is to make them a bit darker green while removing a lot of UV into the car.

I agree Dave. The standard windows do have a light tint and I think look much better as they are - and are also much safer at night.

The rear tints are a bit darker than I would have chosen (a bit gangsta) but I don't mind them like that. I did consider removing the back tints as well but I'm a bit concerned about the HRW element in the back window. Getting rid of the residual adhesive does require a bit of elbow grease, and damaging the element after 40 years of service would be a great pity.

The point you make about removing a lot of UV inside the car is a really good one Dave. The velour interior of the RB is in remarkably good condition for its 40 years. I can't help thinking this is in part due to the window tinting (which may have happened 20 or more years ago).

:-)

[Laird Scooby]

Usually IPA or acetone is good for getting rid of the residual adhesive Alan, still takes a bit of rubbing though. I thik the rears being tinted suits the car very well, if yours are green tinted in the front and you'd like them a little darker something like this might work well :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-gre...f/283522388265

That's what i'm planning for my rear side windows but i should point out that the fron side windows and front screen must pass at least 70% light (70%VLT = Visible Light Transmission) so if you already have tinted widows from the factory, that particular film would make them too dark.

I don't know what level of VLT the standard tint is but for arguments sake, let's assume they are 80% VLT so any additional tnt would have to still pass at least 70% so the minimum would have to be ~90% VLT which would then (in theory) still give 72%VLT on the front glass.
Unless you happen to own one of the special meters or a friendly local Police officer that does (and can persuade him to measure your front glass before adding the tints) then it's a bit of a gamble tinting the front glass.

I believe (although i've not looked for or found) there is a tint film that obscures UV but still allows 100% VLT or very close to. Maybe an option to continue the protection to the velour seating?

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Usually IPA or acetone is good for getting rid of the residual adhesive Alan, still takes a bit of rubbing though. I thik the rears being tinted suits the car very well, if yours are green tinted in the front and you'd like them a little darker something like this might work well :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Light-gre...f/283522388265

That's what i'm planning for my rear side windows but i should point out that the fron side windows and front screen must pass at least 70% light (70%VLT = Visible Light Transmission) so if you already have tinted widows from the factory, that particular film would make them too dark.

I don't know what level of VLT the standard tint is but for arguments sake, let's assume they are 80% VLT so any additional tnt would have to still pass at least 70% so the minimum would have to be ~90% VLT which would then (in theory) still give 72%VLT on the front glass.
Unless you happen to own one of the special meters or a friendly local Police officer that does (and can persuade him to measure your front glass before adding the tints) then it's a bit of a gamble tinting the front glass.

I believe (although i've not looked for or found) there is a tint film that obscures UV but still allows 100% VLT or very close to. Maybe an option to continue the protection to the velour seating?

Many thanks Dave,

I did use acetone, which softens the adhesive, but it still needs a bit of elbow grease to get it off - which is why I think the tints may have been on the car for a couple of decades. The films themselves come off reasonably easily, and in large pieces once given a bit of heat. I didn't want to risk damaging the HRW element (either mechanically or with too much heat) though, if I broke it now it would be hard to get a replacement (looks like it was bonded to the window at the factory).

I'm pretty happy with the original (must be because it still has the security etching) front windows plus the replacement windscreen (with the built in sunscreen) as well as the quite dark tints at the back of the car. I think it is a good combination and rather suits the RB's look (says 'not quite standard').

I rather suspect that if it had been tested the tints on the front windows would have failed a policeman's VLT test - and I certainly feel the car is safe for night time driving now it is back to the manufacturer's original fitment.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Many thanks Dave,

I did use acetone, which softens the adhesive, but it still needs a bit of elbow grease to get it off - which is why I think the tints may have been on the car for a couple of decades. The films themselves come off reasonably easily, and in large pieces once given a bit of heat. I didn't want to risk damaging the HRW element (either mechanically or with too much heat) though, if I broke it now it would be hard to get a replacement (looks like it was bonded to the window at the factory).

I'm pretty happy with the original (must be because it still has the security etching) front windows plus the replacement windscreen (with the built in sunscreen) as well as the quite dark tints at the back of the car. I think it is a good combination and rather suits the RB's look (says 'not quite standard').

I rather suspect that if it had been tested the tints on the front windows would have failed a policeman's VLT test - and I certainly feel the car is safe for night time driving now it is back to the manufacturer's original fitment.

I suspect you're right about the tints being on for 20+ years Alan, the HRW would have been OE at the Volvo factory (my 1973 144 had an HRW as standard as did my 72 145) so a new rear screen would be needed if the elements were damaged so none of them worked.
Unusual for a 1980 car to have the top-tint on the front screen, this usually was only available from about 1982 onwards (often called "graduated screen shade-band" in manufacturers blurb of the time) but became much more common through the 80s, particularly from about 1985 onwards.

I daresay your RB has had a new front screen at some point and if offered the choice, most owners would go for the top-tint and sometimes it's just fitted as standard to tinted glass anyway.

I did have a look for some green tint film with 80+% VLT but couldn't find any, only light blue that would look wrong. With that in mind i think you're better off staying with what it is now, it looks good, not quite standard but tasteful and useful.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I suspect you're right about the tints being on for 20+ years Alan, the HRW would have been OE at the Volvo factory (my 1973 144 had an HRW as standard as did my 72 145) so a new rear screen would be needed if the elements were damaged so none of them worked.
Unusual for a 1980 car to have the top-tint on the front screen, this usually was only available from about 1982 onwards (often called "graduated screen shade-band" in manufacturers blurb of the time) but became much more common through the 80s, particularly from about 1985 onwards.

I daresay your RB has had a new front screen at some point and if offered the choice, most owners would go for the top-tint and sometimes it's just fitted as standard to tinted glass anyway.

I did have a look for some green tint film with 80+% VLT but couldn't find any, only light blue that would look wrong. With that in mind i think you're better off staying with what it is now, it looks good, not quite standard but tasteful and useful.

I'm pretty sure the windscreen is not original Dave, the seal has been changed to the later type and it has the top-tint (very nice). It doesn't have the registration number etched, as do all the other windows.

You are right about the HRW - it still works (well, about 80% of it does) and it would be very difficult to replace I think. The dark tints will be staying at the rear of the motor car.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm pretty sure the windscreen is not original Dave, the seal has been changed to the later type and it has the top-tint (very nice). It doesn't have the registration number etched, as do all the other windows.

You are right about the HRW - it still works (well, about 80% of it does) and it would be very difficult to replace I think. The dark tints will be staying at the rear of the motor car.

The rear screen would be replaced the same as the front screen, basically the seal (if it's the bonded type) is cut so the screen can be popped off, bodywork cleaned with a solvent that dissolves the seal then the new screen is fitted with new sealant so the new screen comes with the elements already fitted.

If you ever do need a replacement rear screen, you'll have to decide then whether to have that one tinted to match the rear side windows or to remove the tint from them as well.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The rear screen would be replaced the same as the front screen, basically the seal (if it's the bonded type) is cut so the screen can be popped off, bodywork cleaned with a solvent that dissolves the seal then the new screen is fitted with new sealant so the new screen comes with the elements already fitted.

If you ever do need a replacement rear screen, you'll have to decide then whether to have that one tinted to match the rear side windows or to remove the tint from them as well.

I thought that might be the case Dave, the rear screen is the original type:



Actually, I quite like the stainless metal surround of the older type seal - and it works perfectly (ie no leaks). It is obviously the factory fitment as the window has the registration number engraved (as do the side windows).

Looking at the service records for the car (I have the last decade's worth) it looks like the windscreen was changed in March 2019 and had the later type seal you talk of:



This is perfectly good and works fine, no leaks and no rust around the aperture. I did consider (briefly) having the seal changed for the earlier type (I still have the metal surround and a set of plastic clips) but have decided that if it ain't broke don't fix it. The more modern screen has the top tint (nice) and is perfectly in keeping with the Royal barge project (subtle improvements, but not detracting too far from the original).

Alan

[Dippydog]

I know it wouldn't be any good for the RB due to the tint but you used to be able to buy a "paint" that was used to bridge any breaks in the heated window elements to resume normal service.I don't know whether it's still available.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Dippydog

I know it wouldn't be any good for the RB due to the tint but you used to be able to buy a "paint" that was used to bridge any breaks in the heated window elements to resume normal service.I don't know whether it's still available.

It is still available, it's called Granville Electrocure and these days it doesn't work very well. It used to, 30 years ago as i used it on my 144 but now it's so thick that it's almost impossible to paint on, never mind in a straight line. End result makes the rear sceen look like it has measles!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Dippydog

I know it wouldn't be any good for the RB due to the tint but you used to be able to buy a "paint" that was used to bridge any breaks in the heated window elements to resume normal service.I don't know whether it's still available.

Ah yes, I remember that from decades ago when the elements used to be much wider I think.
:-)