940 Rear Suspension, Do I Need To Remove Caliper?

[Steve 940]

Hi

Hoping to replace really tired Nivomats and springs, with all new shiny Bilstein B4's with new standard springs tomorrow.

Suddenly realised whilst reading Haynes in prep for the job that they have a step of removing rear caliper bolts, and caliper?? I don't have any new bolts as they say must be used.......

Previously I had been looking at the FAQ on his issue and no mention in there about need to remove caliper, re-read this section and, yes, no mention of need to remove calipers

Can I change shocks and springs without removing the calipers?? If I must remove, can I do so without taking pads out, and can I re-use the old bolts but cleaning them and using Locktite Blue??

Appreciate any input.

Cheers
Steve

[stephend]

If it's a solid rear axle, then shouldn't need to touch the brakes. If it's independent rear suspension, then sorry, I don't know.

[Steve 940]

Thank you so much, yes, it's a solid axle so will put Haynes to one side and go with the forum guide.

Can't wait to get new shocks and springs on so it's no longer a wallowy old thing

Cheers
Steve

[Laird Scooby]

Just be careful when the axle is on "full droop" so you can get the old spring out that the brake flexi doesn't get stretched. If you find you do need to whipe the caliper off, it's only 2 bolts and yes, cleaning and using some threadlock on them is perfectly fine.

Good luck and enjoy the improvements!

[griston64]

Just dont use axle stands on your axle as you wont be able to jack it up or pull it down to get the springs out. Use the rear jacking points if they are solid

I did mine with B4's and new springs the other week. It's a pretty straightforward job

I would also order new studs and nuts for where the top of the spring goes into the body as they are generally well knackered and rusted solid. I also ordered new bolts for the shocks as they were only a few quid ! I also like buying new shiny stuff

[Steve 940]

Thanks for all the responses, most helpful.

To summarise, have just completed and after a small test drive of 8 miles it is now way more stable and secure, no more feeling seasick whilst driving along these awful potholed bumpy country roads hear in Suffolk.

Nice to get my shiny new Haynes manual now bearing some nice greasy paw prints :-)

Do I need to re-torque the shock bolts and rear spring mounting after say 100 miles, nothing in Haynes about this.

Went fairly easily and took around 4 hours at a very leisurely pace with several cups of tea!! Only issue I did have was that the spring mounting nuts on both sides came out with the whole stud, the thread portion of the stud in the body was virtually 'as new'.

Should I get new studs and nuts to replace, or will the old stud suffice??

I was hoping perhaps, that reverting to standard springs and dampers, the ride height would increase slightly, compared to the tired old Nivo's and springs. Looks a bit low with top of the tyre almost level with middle of lower arch lip??

Anyone got any idea what the distance from wheel centre to arch lip should be?

I got the new Bilstein B4 damper set from PFV as part of a bundle, so I've just got to decide if I feel that I could do the front struts as well, will need to get some front standard springs.

How much more complicated is the front strut to do please?? Have most of the tools needed apart from coil spring compressors, I want to stay away from cheopo imported ones, anyone got any recommendations??

I do realise I will need to get full alignment done if I do the front struts.

Looking at Haynes they rate rear springs as a 4 spanner difficulty, but front struts are a 3 for removing and again a 4 spanner for dismantling and reassembling the struts.

If I do go down this route I will do at my brother in laws as he has a massive workshop and compressor to allow me to use impact driver on strut top nut, any tips for the front would be welcome, i.e - any parts I should get before hand, of bushes that are simple to do whilst the front is apart.

List so far I have is:-

Dampers (I have already) new springs, top bearing, new hub nuts.

Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.

Cheers
Steve

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Thanks for all the responses, most helpful.

To summarise, have just completed and after a small test drive of 8 miles it is now way more stable and secure, no more feeling seasick whilst driving along these awful potholed bumpy country roads hear in Suffolk.

Nice to get my shiny new Haynes manual now bearing some nice greasy paw prints :-)

Do I need to re-torque the shock bolts and rear spring mounting after say 100 miles, nothing in Haynes about this.

Went fairly easily and took around 4 hours at a very leisurely pace with several cups of tea!! Only issue I did have was that the spring mounting nuts on both sides came out with the whole stud, the thread portion of the stud in the body was virtually 'as new'.

Should I get new studs and nuts to replace, or will the old stud suffice??

I was hoping perhaps, that reverting to standard springs and dampers, the ride height would increase slightly, compared to the tired old Nivo's and springs. Looks a bit low with top of the tyre almost level with middle of lower arch lip??

Anyone got any idea what the distance from wheel centre to arch lip should be?

I got the new Bilstein B4 damper set from PFV as part of a bundle, so I've just got to decide if I feel that I could do the front struts as well, will need to get some front standard springs.

How much more complicated is the front strut to do please?? Have most of the tools needed apart from coil spring compressors, I want to stay away from cheopo imported ones, anyone got any recommendations??

I do realise I will need to get full alignment done if I do the front struts.

Looking at Haynes they rate rear springs as a 4 spanner difficulty, but front struts are a 3 for removing and again a 4 spanner for dismantling and reassembling the struts.

If I do go down this route I will do at my brother in laws as he has a massive workshop and compressor to allow me to use impact driver on strut top nut, any tips for the front would be welcome, i.e - any parts I should get before hand, of bushes that are simple to do whilst the front is apart.

List so far I have is:-

Dampers (I have already) new springs, top bearing, new hub nuts.

Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.

Cheers
Steve

That does sound a bit low. I did all my fronts as well but got spare struts stripped and powder coated first. That way I could build them up and then just slip in. I also fitted new front hubs and abs sensors as I had a faulty sensor on one side.

You might as well do new spaceship bushes,ball joints and track rod ends while you are at it as they will be knackered as well

I did mention about buying new studs and nuts earlier

[griston64]

This is mine with B4 and 40mm lowering springs all round

[Steve 940]

Hi Griston64,

Yes I did see your suggestion about studs first thing this morning, much appreciated, I'd committed to doing this job today so unfortunately didn't have time to source but hopefully I will be like a magpie gathering all the new shiny bits for the fronts when I get round to it.

Your list of bushes sounds a good idea, thanks.

Thanks for your photo of your lowered car, looking good.

Looking at mine, I'd say the back is very close to yours in the photo, the front is probably 40-50 mm higher than yours.

Don't say I've been given lowered springs please..... just dug out the box that I received from Brookhouse, Kilen Springs, label gives code of 66090, Brookhouse label on as well B30.6609 just marked rear spring, no mention of being lowered.

Really happy with ride, but will see how it settles over the next week or so.

Cheers
Steve

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Hi Griston64,

Yes I did see your suggestion about studs first thing this morning, much appreciated, I'd committed to doing this job today so unfortunately didn't have time to source but hopefully I will be like a magpie gathering all the new shiny bits for the fronts when I get round to it.

Your list of bushes sounds a good idea, thanks.

Thanks for your photo of your lowered car, looking good.

Looking at mine, I'd say the back is very close to yours in the photo, the front is probably 40-50 mm higher than yours.

Don't say I've been given lowered springs please..... just dug out the box that I received from Brookhouse, Kilen Springs, label gives code of 66090, Brookhouse label on as well B30.6609 just marked rear spring, no mention of being lowered.

Really happy with ride, but will see how it settles over the next week or so.

Cheers
Steve

It does make a huge difference ! If you need any help with parts list etc give me a shout as I ordered all mine from FRF so have all part numbers etc

My mate also has a garage so I used his spring compresser to remove the old springs from my spare struts and also spent the day there building up my new ones once they were all powdercoated etc. I did the same with strut rods and control arms which made that a simple switch over as well