Smell burning after changing rear pads and disks

[VolvoRob38]

Hi all,

Changed my nearside pads and disk yesterday, was a nightmare, but seems to be ok. Ive attached a photo, the one with the even ware on the disk.

Changed the rear offside today, went a lot smoother, or so I thought. Realised at the end that I hadn't unscrewed the break fluid cap before winding the caliper piston back in, but managed to do it anyway. Will that have any negative effect?
Just took the car for a test run, drives and stops ok. I heard a slight rubbing when setting off but thought maybe they just need bedding in. Just got back and I can smell burning from the wheel I did today. Also in the photo attached you can see the wear on the disk is not even like the other one. Does anyone know what I might have done wrong?

Also tightened my hand break by tightening the 13mm nut under the arm rest. I did it nice and tight to the handbreak is on after just a couple of clicks. Could this be too tight?

Thanks for your help guys.

[Thassos]

Couldnt see a pic.. best to change brake discs/pads in pairs (ie all front or all back).. sounds like you may have wound the handbrake adjustment up too tight, with the (inner) shoes binding perhaps, best way is to have the car an axle stands at the back or alt jack each wheel separately and see if they spin freely when the handbrake off..

Just saw the pic,, is that front or rear (the pic) and which end do you smell the burning smell?

[VolvoRob38]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Couldnt see a pic.. best to change brake discs/pads in pairs (ie all front or all back).. sounds like you may have wound the handbrake adjustment up too tight, with the (inner) shoes binding perhaps, best way is to have the car an axle stands at the back or alt jack each wheel separately and see if they spin freely when the handbrake off..

Just saw the pic,, is that front or rear (the pic) and which end do you smell the burning smell?

Hi,

They are both the rear wheels. Did oneside yesterday and the other today. Its todays side that I smell the burning.
Yesterday I followed a YouTube video to the letter, today I was a bit confident and just did it... but forgot the unscrewed the break fluid cap before winding the piston back in. Would this make much difference?

I did do my hand break pretty tight, but would that cause rubbing on only oneside? And uneven wear?

[cheshired5]

I always loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper when winding in the piston as the fluid in the caliper is by far the worst fluid in the system so that grotty fluid gets ejected.
The piston also winds in much easier due to the loss of hydraulic pressure.

Forcing fluid back up the system and reusing the fluid in the calipers isn't great in my opinion.

With the handbrake, I'm guessing it it uses the main brake pads and discs via a mechanism built into the caliper as opposed to drum style expanding pads?

Handbrake adjustment, I always aim for the balance of a decent hold on the first click and obviously full release as soon as it's let off.
Doing it up "nice and tight" isn't the aim as you can effectively have the handbrake permanently on even if only slightly which will create heat and other issues.

If one wheel is noticeably warmer than the other, it suggests an imbalance in handbrake application (unevenly stretched or seized cable) or the activation/release mechanism in the individual caliper is binding which can normally be viewed by comparing both calipers whilst someone applies and releases the handbrake lever.

[VolvoRob38]

I think its OK now... think!

I've losen the hand break a bit and there doesnt seem to be any burning smell now. I did exactly the same route and hill start as the first time. Handbreak could do with being a touch tighter imo, as I had to put it on high to do the hill start. Very steep hill btw.

Re the uneven wear and hand break... my MOT is due on the 22nd so will be taking it in probably week after next. They will check the hand break wont they and adjust if necessary??

I also jacked up the car one (rear) wheel at a time, and the one I did yesterday (nearside) did spin a bit better than the offside I did today. And every slight rubbing on both disks but think that was just the pads rubbing on the disks. It was nothing too drastic anyway.

[IainG]

Hi

Also tightened my hand break by tightening the 13mm nut under the arm rest. I did it nice and tight to the handbreak is on after just a couple of clicks. Could this be too tight?

Yes, because of the self adjusters on the rear calipers.

I had a problem with my handbrake.

See below.

I had my handbrake cable too tight. I was trying to make it apply a few clicks earlier.

There is a sprung lever on each of the rear calipers that the handbrake cable attaches too. This lever has to go back and touch its "stop" This then allows the self adjuster to work. If the cable is too tight and either of the 2 levers are not touching their stops the Auto mechanism on that caliper will not work.

I have had to accept a slightly higher handbrake lever but with working Auto adjusters.
Worth checking

As my levers were off the stops my handbrake just got worse and worse. I was about to change the cables but did a final check, slackened the cables to allow the levers to touch their stops and all suddenly came good.

post 4 in this thread
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...highlight=iain

Iain

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by VolvoRob38

Re the uneven wear and hand break... my MOT is due on the 22nd so will be taking it in probably week after next. They will check the hand break wont they and adjust if necessary??

If it's uneven enough, it will fail.

My tester automatically fits parts and makes adjustments if they fall within a reasonable amount of work and cost to save me a fail and subsequent retest but don't bank on the tester automatically making adjustments to help you pass.
Have a chat beforehand.

[VolvoRob38]

Originally Posted by IainG

Hi



Yes, because of the self adjusters on the rear calipers.

I had a problem with my handbrake.

See below.

I had my handbrake cable too tight. I was trying to make it apply a few clicks earlier.

There is a sprung lever on each of the rear calipers that the handbrake cable attaches too. This lever has to go back and touch its "stop" This then allows the self adjuster to work. If the cable is too tight and either of the 2 levers are not touching their stops the Auto mechanism on that caliper will not work.

I have had to accept a slightly higher handbrake lever but with working Auto adjusters.
Worth checking

As my levers were off the stops my handbrake just got worse and worse. I was about to change the cables but did a final check, slackened the cables to allow the levers to touch their stops and all suddenly came good.

post 4 in this thread
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...highlight=iain

Iain

Thanks for this... I will go and check.
So does the spring lever need to be on its stop with the hand break off? Or on?

Yes I saw those springs on the back and wondered what that contraption was lol

[Thassos]

Try touching the centre of each wheel, after a run where you havent been hammering the brakes, you shouldnt feel much heat at all or none, compare each side, one wheel feeling hot and that familiar smell like an overcooked clutch.. and you have some brake binding going on.. happens if you get a stuck caliper also..

[IainG]

Hi

So does the spring lever need to be on its stop with the hand break off? Or on?

With the handbrake off.

It basically means there should be a small amount of slack in the cables when the handbrake is off, allowing the 2 spring levers to return to rest on the stops.

Iain