940 spark plug gap

[bgmtel]

Hi,this is my first post.I have a 1996 940 classic estate which I have had for three months,and has done 70,000 miles.I am going to change the spark plugs and was hoping someone could tell me the gap on them and what are the best ones to use.The engine is a B230FK.Thanks in advance.
Brian

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

Most spark plugs are pre gapped.
From memory, the gap on my 940 was .7
But you should be able to happily fit new plugs without setting the gap..

BTW: Welcome to the forums and enjoy your time here..
Look after that 940, won't you..

Des. . .

[lee enfield]

Originally Posted by CTCNetwork

Hi,

Most spark plugs are pre gapped.
From memory, the gap on my 940 was .7
But you should be able to happily fit new plugs without setting the gap..

Des. . .

I would cough up and buy a haynes manual it wont break the bank, dont fit the plugs without gapping them, its pointless ,they need to be right, when you do fit them put a smear of never seez or similar on the threads, and torque them to 25nm, no more

[baggy798]

I would recommend either NGK BPR6ES or BP7ES. The 'R' stands for resistor but if you have got good HT leads you probably won't need them.

You can gap them if you wish, but the tool is an extra fiver. Having said that, ones that I have purchased have not been out by a vast margin. (we are talking 0.1-2mm - certainly nothing that would make ANY difference)

Don't grease the threads.

EDIT: CTC is right - factory gap is 0.7mm

[lee enfield]

Originally Posted by baggy798

I would recommend either NGK BPR6ES or BP7ES. The 'R' stands for resistor but if you have got good HT leads you probably won't need them.

You can gap them if you wish, but the tool is an extra fiver. Having said that, ones that I have purchased have not been out by a vast margin. (we are talking 0.1-2mm - certainly nothing that would make ANY difference)

Don't grease the threads.

no dont grease them, use a touch of anti seize compound ,you dont need a tool to gap them use a set of feeler gauges

[baggy798]

Yeah, you can also use feeler gauges - although I think they're the same price from Halfrauds.

Wouldn't applying anti-seize change the torque factor?

Either way, the NGK's have a crush-washer, so when the plug touches the cylinder head I turn it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

Originally Posted by baggy798

I would recommend either NGK BPR6ES or BP7ES. The 'R' stands for resistor but if you have got good HT leads you probably won't need them.

You can gap them if you wish, but the tool is an extra fiver. Having said that, ones that I have purchased have not been out by a vast margin. (we are talking 0.1-2mm - certainly nothing that would make ANY difference)

Don't grease the threads.

EDIT: CTC is right - factory gap is 0.7mm

Phew.. My memory isn't completely **** then!!!

And no, I have never applied either greese or copper ease etc to the plug thread.
The dry connection keept the plug in place, and correctly torqued should not be an issue for removal..

Des. . .

[alfix]

My 940s (Turbo) only gets 2 to 3k out of new plugs before it misses under load. They look fine. Have checked the gap & made sure they're clean. I find them better with a 29thou gap but still don't last that long. I've tried Champion, Nipondenso were better. Any help?

[classicswede]

Well done for getting the engine to run on Champion plugs!

Use NGK, Denso or genuine Volvo plugs

Avoid Champion and Bosch

[RollingThunder]

Originally Posted by classicswede

Use NGK, Denso or genuine Volvo plugs

Avoid Champion and Bosch

This - 100% !

I'm using NGK BPR6ES in my 1996 2.3LPT/B230FK

It might be worthwhile checking your HT leads as well. If they're the originals it might be time to get some new ones on there - Bougicourd are the OEM and personally I wouldn't use anything else.