Headlight level sensor assembled incorrectly?

[Spookyb329]

No, the variation is just normal dipped, and then the dipped dropping down so it only illuminates about 5 metres in front of the car, and then twitching up and down a few times and then returning to level dipped beam.

I don't understand how the sensor arm can be in contact with the droplink as when the suspension is compressed, the linkage is binding. And if the arm was bent, surely it would then be shorter so less chance of contact!

Mind boggled but your help has saved me from changing the orientation of the arm I'll jack it up in a bit to see if the arm drops from its 10PM position to the 8PM position in the youtube image

[Spookyb329]

I think I've just worked it out, will report back...

[SnineT]

Originally Posted by Spookyb329

No, the variation is just normal dipped, and then the dipped dropping down so it only illuminates about 5 metres in front of the car, and then twitching up and down a few times and then returning to level dipped beam.

I don't understand how the sensor arm can be in contact with the droplink as when the suspension is compressed, the linkage is binding. And if the arm was bent, surely it would then be shorter so less chance of contact!

Mind boggled but your help has saved me from changing the orientation of the arm I'll jack it up in a bit to see if the arm drops from its 10PM position to the 8PM position in the youtube image

Ah, if you have Xenon gas bulbs that might be the problem if the bulb is dying, if you have LED or H7's disregard, if you do have the gas bulbs it might not be them and the system is so complex with discharge packs etc it'll need pro help, don't go any further than checking if the bulb fluctuates or not when in use, best test is when it starts doing it again park up and let the car sit running with the lights on, then check if the bulb brightness is fluctuating or changing colour,

The arms not bent you can see it shows no trauma evidence,

If you jack it up you should be able to grasp the rod part and turn it on the ball joint back n forth a few mm's each time, this may help return it to full range of movement if it is a bit cruddy inside the rubber boot, don't mess with the boot or you'll risk damaging it, and it will literally only have a small range of movement in it so don't overdo it.

[Spookyb329]

Headlights are LED and they are not dimming or flickering, they are definitely adjusting the level just like a car with a manual height adjustment.

My idea didn't work. Wondering if perhaps the springs fitted are shorter than before (although it doesn't look low).

Will keep investigating...

[SnineT]

Originally Posted by Spookyb329

Headlights are LED and they are not dimming or flickering, they are definitely adjusting the level just like a car with a manual height adjustment.

My idea didn't work. Wondering if perhaps the springs fitted are shorter than before (although it doesn't look low).

Will keep investigating...

I think you just found it, if the spring height has changed so will the headlight beam, if they are LED it will have a hissy fit as it will be expecting one set of position instructions and receiving another, I'd nip back to the spring fitters and ask them to adjust the beam, it has to be done on a computer so if they don't know how or don't have the equipment go to a big tyre centre chain that does suspension repairs or Volvo.

I'd also grin and bear it for a few weeks and see if driving it at night sorts itself out on it's own, it may have a learning program that needs time to adjust itself.

[Spookyb329]

First image is resting on the ground (droplink in contact with sensor arm)

Second and third are jacked up, you can see the arm has been rubbing and there is a notch in the plastic.

Can't work out what is causing this!

[SnineT]

Ageing process, things deform under heat, get slightly moved when other parts are removed etc, I wouldn't worry about it tbh, I think your top ball joint is probably unable to achieve full movement due to age and muck, lube it and twist it, hold the main bar with one hand and place the other over the top ball joint and get some small movement to happen, don't bend or break the main rod, at worst if it won't move lube it then wrap a bit of cardboard round the main link bar and use some pliers to wiggle it in a side to side motion, it will only be 5mm each way movement max, you should feel it free up and be able to wiggle it by hand with tight but minimal fettering.

[Spookyb329]

I thought I had updated this thread but it appears not! Perhaps I had a topic on another forum about it...

Anyway, very simple fix. The bracket holding the sensor is very soft, and when the springs were changed they've bent the bracket. I pushed it back to what appears vertical and all is well! Headlights behaving and the arm is no longer binding on itself