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142 Rally car RHD. Loads of spares

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Old Jul 13th, 2022, 09:53   #11
RCHunt
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Hi, it's a B18 engine, I'm only guessing at it being a P1800 carb set up because of the carburettor tag and the ZH (?) needles. Have been recommended to try KN, if I can find any.
Have a session booked at Tipton Garage! However they are so popular you have to book several weeks ahead! Problem now is that there are two long hills between here and Tipton St. John. one of them I've managed to top at about 20MPH with much stuttering and misfiring, my Alfa Romeo will top it at 60, my V70 not far short of that (don't tell the police). I've even considered hiring a trailer to get there!
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Old Jul 13th, 2022, 10:44   #12
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Hi
if its weak try pulling out the choke just a bit and then a bit more
hope that helps
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Old Jul 13th, 2022, 12:32   #13
RCHunt
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I connected the chokes just so I could try this. It starts reasonably well without them. Tried it on a hill near home, the jury's out to be honest. Will try again if the car comes back with no improvement.
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Old Jul 13th, 2022, 17:58   #14
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Originally Posted by RCHunt View Post
Hi, have switched the car to a pair of HS6 SUs. Bought secondhand they seemed clean and correct. I suspect from my SU tuning guide that they were off an early P1800. However I just cannot get the car to run cleanly. Under acceleration car just stutters and misfires. Has twin Facet electric fuel pumps, Malpassi fuel pressure regulator. It ran fine before. Car is with local garage they are equally mystified. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
SU can leak at the butterfly spindle bush area, with the car running spray some WD40 at the area and if the revs increase you have a problem there.

Next have you got the correct needles and how have you set the idle mixture?
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Old Jul 14th, 2022, 12:10   #15
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I am awaiting a pair of KD needles, KNs were recommended but seem in short supply. The car is on ZH which comments on another forum seem to imply are too weak so maybe the cause of my problem, odd that they were original equipment on early P1800s though.

I set the mixture as in the Haynes manual, 15 flats down. I then adjusted around this point on both carbs, tick over settled to around 800-900.

Will try the WD40 if I still have a problem when the needles are fitted.

I have a rolling road session booked in a couple of weeks, for the moment I just want a set up which will accelerate on demand and climb hills!
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Old Jul 14th, 2022, 14:16   #16
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I am awaiting a pair of KD needles, KNs were recommended but seem in short supply. The car is on ZH which comments on another forum seem to imply are too weak so maybe the cause of my problem, odd that they were original equipment on early P1800s though.

I set the mixture as in the Haynes manual, 15 flats down. I then adjusted around this point on both carbs, tick over settled to around 800-900.

Will try the WD40 if I still have a problem when the needles are fitted.

I have a rolling road session booked in a couple of weeks, for the moment I just want a set up which will accelerate on demand and climb hills!
If your car is standard go to Burlens website, type in the details and it will tell you what needle you need. If it's not standard then it's trial and error with a rolling road and or with a O2 wideband sensor. I just use a wideband O2, very easy to check fuel mixture is where you want it under driving conditions. This will help you with needle comparisons.

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

That might be the starting point but that's not how you set idle mixture. The correct way is to wind down the jet increasing fuel mixture until revs stop increasing then just back up one flat is the best and most accurate. A SU should idle rich, about 13.2:1 so when you back off the throttle when driving the carb doesn’t go lean and backfire. You can also use a O2 wideband gauge to measure the fuel ratio or a digital multimeter with a tachometer attachment to easily read the revs as you adjust the jet. Pic of mine attached, very handy tool.

I'd recommend 80 90 gear oil in the dash pots, make sure you have the correct spring in each carb, do a drop test for each carb (do a search on youtube for SU drop test) and make sure the needle is centered correctly.
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Old Sep 8th, 2022, 16:33   #17
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Hi, finally solved the problem. There is an O ring on the pipe to the jet. This had perished on the forward carb and was blocking the fuel supply. This took Steve at Tipton Garage much head scratching to finally discover. Car is now sorted and running well. It's always the little things!
Many thanks for all your comments.
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