19T turbo?

[carpy]

I've given up trying to understand this. So can we agree that a 19T and 3" downpipe is the way forward?

[don kalmar union]

To be quite honest 8 pages of this and I reckon we are all confused.

Starting from the beginning....what have you done to the car so far?

Regards, Don.

[bobcat]

Originally Posted by don kalmar union

To be quite honest 8 pages of this and I reckon we are all confused.

Starting from the beginning....what have you done to the car so far?

Regards, Don.

are you confused don?

[bobcat]

Originally Posted by carpy

I've given up trying to understand this. So can we agree that a 19T and 3" downpipe is the way forward?

yes thats the best option if your fitting a 19t.

carpy, have a look at this:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/New-T...pe-t71411.html

it shows how the dp bolts to the turbo and a nice picture of the 19t. as you can see the turbo is made up of 2 halfs, when you buy a "half-bake" you just get the front part (the shiney silver part).

[PNuT]

i dont really see whats to be confused about....

[foggyjames]

Neither do I! Let me put it very simply...

I'm not sure the 19T is worth the extra money over an 18T once the cost of the downpipe (or DP modification) is taken into consideration. They really are very similarly sized turbos.

If you want more than the 18T/stock DP combo gives you, I'd go straight to a notably bigger unit on a 3" DP.

cheers

James

[Engineer]

Originally Posted by foggyjames

I know several people who have simply 'rebuilt' their old turbo (i.e. freshened up the CHRA), and gone on for many thousands of miles quite happily. These are relatively recent events, so we don't have hundreds of thousands of miles to comment on, but I've seen plenty of 150k+ wheels which are still in perfect shape. If the wheel is damaged (perhaps due to an impact from a foreign object?), that's a different matter, but I wasn't aware that they 'wear' as such.

I'm no turbo expert, so I'm more than willing to be proved wrong. What causes them to wear?

cheers

James

Hi James, check out link it explains the different meanings of wear and creeps worth a read as well, hope this helps
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wear


Cheers

[foggyjames]

...been away for the weekend

I've only seen wheels damaged by corrosion (and that's only on turbos which have been left outside) and impacts from foreign objects. I'm struggling to see that the effect of the pressurised air against the blades would, in isolation, lead them to wear to any appriciable degree. There won't be any metal-on-metal wear to the wheels (unless you've gone to dodgy Dave's turbos, of course!).

The turbo, believed to be the original, which came out of Ryan's 740 at about 180k (with blown seals) had wheels which were in perfectly re-usable order. I have a turbo from a (Volvo!) truck engine lying around here somewhere. It'd been sat out in a field for 5 years. The compressor wheel is a bit of a mess, but the exhaust wheel (better protected from the elements) is ok.

cheers

James

[don kalmar union]

Good evening James,

I have just had the 16T from my S60 racer overhauled after about 40 hours track time.

Whilst waiting at my preferred specialist in their lobby, the owner came out of his office and looked at my turbo on the desk, put his specs on and said "are you using a foam filter?, as you have wear from poor filtration of the smallest abrasive particles that such filters do not capture"

He then went on to show me under magnification just how much wear had taken place along the leading edges of the blades and on the body in that area and said that with time that wear contributes considerably to the efficiency of the turbo. It looked to me if it had been caused by 'shot' blasting with fairy dust.

So I have decided to use only paper or gauze filters in future.

They also found wear on the shaft caused by abrasive particles and damage to blades from the plug porcelain that had broken up in our last race.

It is not possible to buy the smaller components of these TDO4 turbos and the smallest replacement assembly apart from the wheels and actuators is the core at arround £280 plus VAT.

Interesting to know just what is checked and maybe replaced prior to sale by those offering mix and match Mitsubishi TDO4 combinations or so called hybrids.

Regards, Don.

[foggyjames]

That's interesting and a little worrying Don - I run foam filters on my car! To date, there hasn't been any sign of gumming of the oil due to small particles passing through the filters, so hopefully I'm ok!

I'll have to go and have a close-up look at the Garrett T3 CHRA we've got sat downstairs. It has always been used with a factory filter as far as I'm aware, so it'll be interesting to see if there is any notable wear detectable with the naked eye, and with a magnifying glass. I'm not sure about quite how small the 'evidence' is, but I'll have to carry on without knowing if it requires the use of a microscope

cheers

James