Engine 850: B5234T/2.3/20v/T5: Starting issue

Originally Posted by DLM48

Some sense BUT which side of the LT side of the coil are you going to test - Both?

ALSO if there is 'SOME' voltage there how do you know what the correct voltage is?

You then need to check a few cars to get an average voltage at the coil with the car cranking.

Stuart should test the voltage with the engine cold before he tries it warm to estabish is there is any difference between hot and cold - but then it will probably start when the engine is cold before he can get a sensible reading so he will need to disconnect the fuel supply as doing enything to the ignition side will just introduce 'another' variable into this investigation.

Also these coils are not to be played with as they are rather dangerous - not like the old lucas coil of days of old.

regards

David

christ on a crutch, were merely checking the low tension circuit to see if the coil is receiving voltage during the hot crank ,as its a 12v system then the coil should receive something in that area allowing for normal voltage drop .....yes? if theres no voltage there he has problem..yes?, if theres 3v there, he has problem ...yes? if he gets 11 volts then he has no problem on the LT side..yes? and the problem may well lie in the HT side, finally no ones "playing" with the coil we only testing the supply or lack of it to it, coils only get dangerous on the HTside

[ShadeTek]

Does anyone know if the coil is a current drain device? IE, is it fed a constant 12vdc to one side of it and the other side is drained to earth, OR is one side earthed and the 12vdc is switched?

Also Stuart, if you are going to get the VOL-FCR, I would erase the immobiliser codes you have and see if they come back at all. I meant to erase them yesterday after doing the screen grab. This may point towards a
weird immobiliser fault. The fact that there's a comms break in there looks very iffy. The one and only time I removed and relaced an engine, I had wiring faults giving me weird intermittent results. These may all be red herrings but We have to eliminate the probable causes one by one.

[stuartvolvo]

No Bother ShadeTek,
I wrote to the diagnostic company yesterday asking them about the VOL-FCR software aswell as the cable from the laptop to the obd socket. I am also interested in there ScanMaster Software as my dads jeep Is EOBD woth ISO Protocall, and i require the software to read his codes as well.
My dad found this software
http://www.ukobd.co.uk/gstore/store/...p?IDproduct=29
but i dont think it is as good as ScanMaster on

http://www.onboarddiagnostics.co.uk/...e_and_Hardware

What do you guys think. No matter what i will be buying the VOL-FCR anyway for the volvo but i require software for my dads 2002 2l TD Suzuki Grand Vitara.

[ShadeTek]

If you have the dosh, then the VOL-FCR is a must and I don't know the Scanmaster software at all, but check to see if it does more than the P0xxx powertrain codes, IE can it talk to the gearbox, ABS, CC etc, as that would be better Value For Money.

[ChrisGrant]

would love a copy of VOL-FCR but a 115+vat !!! has anyone got a copy for sale........

[DLM48]

Originally Posted by chow

christ on a crutch, were merely checking the low tension circuit to see if the coil is receiving voltage during the hot crank ,as its a 12v system then the coil should receive something in that area allowing for normal voltage drop .....yes? if theres no voltage there he has problem..yes?, if theres 3v there, he has problem ...yes? if he gets 11 volts then he has no problem on the LT side..yes? and the problem may well lie in the HT side, finally no ones "playing" with the coil we only testing the supply or lack of it to it, coils only get dangerous on the HTside

you seem to have a real problem with people that dont agree with you

you can check all you like but until you know what you are looking for and you 'know' what to expect you are just playing.

for all you know the coil maybe fed with 3/6/9 or 12 Volts as a norm.

For sure if there is 0V at the LT side coil then i would consider that a problem but even that is conjecture - then how are you going to measure this voltage a volt meter a data logger or an ociliscope? Is the coil hot the moment you turn the key? or is it fed pulsed voltage from the ECU in time with the crank sensor and cam sensors - now tell me you 'know for a fact' what the voltages should be and how they are applied to the coil and then we can investigate the coil properly.


HOWEVER - I have been at the car - the car starts with a push after it wont start on the key - the car starts instantly with a push (well it was a tow actually about 5/6MPH and in second gear) the coil suddenly does not have a fault when you turn the starter - the car runs perfectly when it has been started now that to me says ALL of the bits and bobs that control the running of the engine are functioning properly - HOWEVER for some reason - not yet determined (but i suspect EMI/RFI interference from the starter motor) the ECU wont let the car start when it is warm - there is no spark.

Also the HT side is not that far away from the LT side and IS DANGEROUS

Do have a look at my post

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=8440

and all the bits that i changed on my car with exactly the same problem

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by ChrisGrant

would love a copy of VOL-FCR but a 115+vat !!! has anyone got a copy for sale........

I bought mine when it ws a wee bit cheaper than that(I think), but they are of course copyright protected. Excellent tool though and the streaming data is very handy too.

[stuartvolvo]

Alright guys,
Just to report back i have just finished cleaning and renewing all my earth leads around the engine bay, aswell as doing some inner bodywork cleaning and painting. She has so far started first time, although i dont want to buid my hopes up to far.
Im away to Islay tomorrow, and im taking her with me, so when i get back on monday i will report back

Regards
Stuart

[stuartvolvo]

Hello guys,
Im back. Had a great weekend away. Whiskey, Whiskey and more Whiskey. It was great.
Anyway the car started first time, straight away, for the whole weekend that i was away until earlier on this morning. I have found out that while i was away, between each time i used the car, she sat stationary for at least a hour or two and started staright away.
This morning i was dropping some friends off, that were away with me, and it seemsed that it took excessive cranking between each stop, although the car was only stopped for a minute or two before moving off,
so it seams that if she is sat stationary for a while she will start sraight away, but if stoped only for a minute or two it will take a bit of cranking to start.
I have found out that there was a code showing a faulty thermostat, so i have replaced that this afternoon. Do i need to clear the code, before she acts normally ?

cheers
Stuart

[ShadeTek]

Welcome back, glad you had a great time. What was the code that you pulled?