B230FD Problems :)

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

get a fuel pressure guage and check the line pressure. If the pump is not delivering in sufficient quantity, the fuel pressure will drop.

The engine may well test as running rich if one cylinder is only firing erratically. Until the #4 cylinder problem is resolved, your exhaust gas content is irrelevant.

When you say the distributor shaft os loose, do you mean it has side-play? If so, how much? Because unless its in the range of several millimetres side play will not affect the operation of the distributor.

Focus. Fix one thing at a time. Helicoil first.

Sigh - good to see at least we agree Dave.

Lol I feel stupid.

Yeah that picture is from my old distributor. The shaft had play. And that black thing. (Idk the name on that thing in English) but it goes on the cam and locks it in place!
It have 1cm play or less in my new distributor from a turbo FK

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

Sigh - good to see at least we agree Dave.

If you read back through the whole thread Ash, i've been trying to get proper tests done for ages. Little bits of info suddenly seem to leak out putting a different complexion on the whole shooting match, makes me feel like i'm Tiger Woods playing golf on a moonless night with black balls against Stevie Wonder!

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you read back through the whole thread Ash, i've been trying to get proper tests done for ages. Little bits of info suddenly seem to leak out putting a different complexion on the whole shooting match, makes me feel like i'm Tiger Woods playing golf on a moonless night with black balls against Stevie Wonder!

Yeah. Lol. I don’t know how to explain things in English well. But I know what I’m talking about. And that picture there. Is from my old bulk**** distributor. I changed it. I already wrote that later in the post. So I changed distributor and cap. But it’s still play in my new one. Sideways. I can’t post a video either. Too long video.

https://youtu.be/o09RC7QulOI
https://youtu.be/4FX0kgbb_II
https://youtu.be/oyod_wbZn1M

[aardvarkash10]

side play in this distributor is irrelevant unless it reaches the point where the rotor is hitting the cap. Of course, by then the entire cap is full of oil because the seals will be u/s but, hey.

Move on. The distributor is not your porblem.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Yeah. Lol. I don’t know how to explain things in English well. But I know what I’m talking about. And that picture there. Is from my old bulk**** distributor. I changed it. I already wrote that later in the post. So I changed distributor and cap. But it’s still play in my new one. Sideways. I can’t post a video either. Too long video.

https://youtu.be/o09RC7QulOI
https://youtu.be/4FX0kgbb_II
https://youtu.be/oyod_wbZn1M

You just posted 3 videos!

None are helpful to be honest, Do you have a spare cylinder head? If so, it might be quicker and easier to swap it rather than removing this head to Helicol #4 plug thread.

Don't change the fuel rail and injectors, they seem to be functioning as normally as they could be with #4 out of action. Because #4 isn't firing, it's not running at the right speed for the ECU and won't be developing the right inlet manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure in the fuel rail is dependent on correct inlet manifold vacuum, if the inlet manifold vacuum is low, it will increase the fuel pressure - this will cause rich running.

The Lambda sensor will register this so the ECU will try to correct it my making the mixture leaner by shortening the injection time.This can go one of two wys, either it gets so lean the engine stalls or it allows the engine to recover some speed and it speeds up but then it still doesn't have the correct vacuum so is once again running rich.

This will throw a MAF fault even on a car with a good MAF and often it will also throw AICV and Lambda faults as well. Simple reason the engine is not responding the way the ECU expects to the changes it makes, therefore the sensors it depends on must be faulty according to the ECU program.

Until you get that plug thread sorted, we can't get any further with this. Once you've sorted the thread in #4, pull fuse #1 when you start refitting the head and only refit it when you're ready to try starting it.

Then hopefully we can get some progress!

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

You just posted 3 videos!

None are helpful to be honest, Do you have a spare cylinder head? If so, it might be quicker and easier to swap it rather than removing this head to Helicol #4 plug thread.

Don't change the fuel rail and injectors, they seem to be functioning as normally as they could be with #4 out of action. Because #4 isn't firing, it's not running at the right speed for the ECU and won't be developing the right inlet manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure in the fuel rail is dependent on correct inlet manifold vacuum, if the inlet manifold vacuum is low, it will increase the fuel pressure - this will cause rich running.

The Lambda sensor will register this so the ECU will try to correct it my making the mixture leaner by shortening the injection time.This can go one of two wys, either it gets so lean the engine stalls or it allows the engine to recover some speed and it speeds up but then it still doesn't have the correct vacuum so is once again running rich.

This will throw a MAF fault even on a car with a good MAF and often it will also throw AICV and Lambda faults as well. Simple reason the engine is not responding the way the ECU expects to the changes it makes, therefore the sensors it depends on must be faulty according to the ECU program.

Until you get that plug thread sorted, we can't get any further with this. Once you've sorted the thread in #4, pull fuse #1 when you start refitting the head and only refit it when you're ready to try starting it.

Then hopefully we can get some progress!

That wasn’t the problem. It’s threaded now, new gaskets and bolts. Pinbolts.
Glad that’s solved

Now I wonder. Is that IAC valve supposed to be stuck sometimes and then it works? If I try to pry with a screwdriver on that throttle. It’s stuck. The width or the opening? Is that supposed to be like that? Idle is still rough. Tried it with two cables on a booster. It opened. But did not close itself. But prying the throttle helped it to return. I tried another IAC with the same opening but it did help a little bit, but the idle is rough. What about bad ECU?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

That wasn’t the problem. It’s threaded now, new gaskets and bolts. Pinbolts.
Glad that’s solved

Now I wonder. Is that IAC valve supposed to be stuck sometimes and then it works? If I try to pry with a screwdriver on that throttle. It’s stuck. The width or the opening? Is that supposed to be like that? Idle is still rough. Tried it with two cables on a booster. It opened. But did not close itself. But prying the throttle helped it to return. I tried another IAC with the same opening but it did help a little bit, but the idle is rough. What about bad ECU?

Did you pull fuse #1 before trying to start the car after sorting the plug thread?

The AICV is stepper-motor controlled so will stay where it's put until it recieves another signal. Some later ones are simple open/shut vavles operated by a PWM system from the ECU to control the opening. If it's a later oen it should close itself, early ones don't. Either way it looks dirty in there so cleaning it with air intake & carburettor cleanr may help.

I did mention the possibility of a duff ECU quite a way back in the thread, have you got yourself a NOID light yet?

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Did you pull fuse #1 before trying to start the car after sorting the plug thread?

The AICV is stepper-motor controlled so will stay where it's put until it recieves another signal. Some later ones are simple open/shut vavles operated by a PWM system from the ECU to control the opening. If it's a later oen it should close itself, early ones don't. Either way it looks dirty in there so cleaning it with air intake & carburettor cleanr may help.

I did mention the possibility of a duff ECU quite a way back in the thread, have you got yourself a NOID light yet?

I pulled out fuse 1.
I tried a new IAC and that did help a little bit. Still rough.
Yes. NOID light for injectors. I even swapped my injectors. FPR And fuel rail. Just to be extra sure. I have checked throttle body. New gaskets for Intake and throttle body.

Tomorrow I’ll try a new ECU and EZK

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

I pulled out fuse 1.
I tried a new IAC and that did help a little bit. Still rough.
Yes. NOID light for injectors. I even swapped my injectors. FPR And fuel rail. Just to be extra sure. I have checked throttle body. New gaskets for Intake and throttle body.

Tomorrow I’ll try a new ECU and EZK

First of al, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE STOP changing things - you might be putting more faults onto the car without realising it!

Now, with the set-up you have now, fit the NOID light to #4 injector and start the engine.

Let it idle. Observe the light. Bring the revs up gently and slowly to about 3000rpm. Observe the light as you do this.

If you can set the phone/camera up to film the NOID light, even better. Keep it at 3000rpm for a few second (5-10s) then let go of the throttle sharply, observing the NOID light and let it idle.
After idling for 30s or so, remove the small bore hose from the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and put your hose over the end of the rubber hose.
Does the idle improve? Is the petrol leaking out of the stub on the FPR?

Catch as much as you can on camera/video and upload it please, preferably in one continuous video.

Let's see what we've got then and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this!

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

First of al, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE STOP changing things - you might be putting more faults onto the car without realising it!

Now, with the set-up you have now, fit the NOID light to #4 injector and start the engine.

Let it idle. Observe the light. Bring the revs up gently and slowly to about 3000rpm. Observe the light as you do this.

If you can set the phone/camera up to film the NOID light, even better. Keep it at 3000rpm for a few second (5-10s) then let go of the throttle sharply, observing the NOID light and let it idle.
After idling for 30s or so, remove the small bore hose from the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and put your hose over the end of the rubber hose.
Does the idle improve? Is the petrol leaking out of the stub on the FPR?

Catch as much as you can on camera/video and upload it please, preferably in one continuous video.

Let's see what we've got then and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this!

Isn’t it strange that new injectors and rail will fail? I’m only testing parts. Gotta exclude different parts. Okay, I’ll try to record a video
Btw I’ll change ecu