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745 wants in NorthantsViews : 13188 Replies : 87Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 8th, 2013, 14:53 | #61 |
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I NEED to get ASAP; Clear N/S/R Light Cluster (slowly filling with water but don't want to buy another normal one as i have a clear O/S/R one waiting to be fitted) N/S Headlight unit Would Like; N/S/R Door, preferably in the right colour O/S/F wing, ditto Fitting Kit for Volvo driving lights/parts (or just the driving lights switch and a front fog kit, i know it's the same but more common, or even just a front fog kit and i'll change the switch at a later date if/when i find one) 760 Dome Light Under Bonnet Light battery condition gauge/oil temperature gauge/ambient temperature gauge oil pressure gauge and sender hope someone can help me Richard
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Mar 13th, 2013, 13:11 | #62 | |
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As for the other bits, some time back i found an accessory catalogue online for real Volvos (our age cars in other words!) and the following might be of some interest : Installation kit – for extra lights S90, V90, 960 95– 9134 663-5 960 94–, 940 –91, 760 88–, 740 90– 9166 320-3 760 82–87, 740 84–89 1188 599-3 Complete installation kit intended for two standing extra lights. Contains iron attachments, stays, switch, H3 55W bulbs and customized cable harness for simple hook-up to car’s electrical system, also detailed installation instructions. The iron attachments are mounted to the bumper (no hole-drilling required). Product facts • Complete installation kit for two auxiliary lights standing in front of the grille. • Simple installation without hole drilling. • Made to measure cable harness easy to connect to car’s electrical system. 1. Digital ambient temperature gauge (Op. no. 38426) 760 82-87, 740 88-90 – left position 3515 882-3 Tells you the changes in temperature while driving. The gauge measures the temperature just above road level. A good back-up to the weather report. Gives you a better chance of discovering treacherous ice on the road. A red warning lamp lights when the temperature is within the ice-slippery range. 2. Voltmeter (Op. no. 38203) 760 82-87, 740 84-90 – left position 1333 937-9 For checking the charging system and state of the battery. The voltmeter measures the battery voltage when the ignition is on, and the system voltage when the engine is running. 3. Oil pressure gauge (Op. no. 38217) 760 82-87, 740 84-90 – left position 1333 766-2 – right position 1333 767-0 + Sensor for oil pressure gauge B23/200/230 1333 930-4 B230, Turbo LHD 1333 930-4 + 16 218-0 B28 1333 930-4 + 464 592-5 B280 1363 908-3 D24/T/TIC 82–87 1347 361-6 D24/T/TIC 88–93 3523 277-6 Indicates engine’s lube oil pressure. Low pressure develops after heavy loading or with leakage in lube oil system. 4. Oil temperature gauge (Op. no. 38225) 760 82-87, 740 84-90 – left position 1333 762-1 +Sensor for oil temperature gauge 4-cyl 1307 535-3 Diesel 1324 625-1 Indicates oil temperature in engine oil sump. Measuring range: 50°C-150°C. I know for cost reasons you might well be looking for second hand gauges and maybe even the driving light fitting kit but it's possible that New Old Stock might come up on fleabay. As such, knowing the part numbers etc might help you find the right bits. Alternatively, you could go to Volvo and hope they're not horrendously priced! I expect your dash is similar to mine so as such you'll only be able to fit 2 extra instruments from the above range. Alternatively, you could always make your own instruments using LEDs and the LM3914 bargraph driver IC - seem to recall you're doing Electronics as part of your course work. Granted they are quite old chips these days but they're cheap (i bought 10 for something like £3.50 inc P&P from HK via fleabay) and reliable. If you want to save time designing them, i can let you have some circuits i've designed. Built some of them although not as yet fitted due to various reasons. Hope that helps one way or another!
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Mar 13th, 2013, 16:22 | #63 | |
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i know the exact catalogue you got that from, it's where i got most of the ides from!
yeah, agreed, the part numbers probably would be good to help find bits, but unfortunately i have a habit of spending the spare money i have very quickly either on Siân or the car so it's never around long enough to be looking for these more unnecessary mods. maybe when the cars entirely straight and rust free :| Quote:
thanks for the ideas Richard
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Mar 13th, 2013, 16:43 | #64 | |
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I'm not too well up on PICs as they came along after i finished my apprenticeship and by then i was doing other things in the electrickery area, so never really got to know much about them. Only thing i'm fairly sure of is they are only capable of driving relatively small loads such as LCDs and not LEDs - please correct me if i'm wrong though! On the idea of using a MUX, you could make multiple gauges using a single (or cascaded for multiples of 10 LEDs per gauge) 3914 and simply MUX the input to the various sources and then the output to emitter follower power transistors to provide the current for the LED arrays. You could make a very simple but effective MUX using a 555 timer and a 4 bit counter/shift register (for 4 gauges or use a decade counter and take the next unused output to reset so it rings round the req'd number) - in fact i remember seeing something along those lines done many moons ago in an electronics mag to show the power outputs of a 4 speaker car stereo. The only thing that wouldn't work with is my LED ammeter cct as that swings on a +5v reference voltage to show charge/discharge. That said i expect my ammeter cct could be modified to work on a basic voltage reference. I did make a replacement fuel gauge for my 740 using a 3914, a few resistors and a 7/3 green/red split 10 LED array - worked very well until i got a new cluster that the original gauge worked in! Kept the LED one though as if one fuel gauge is faulty, so can another be! If you want/need any help or ideas, feel free to give me a shout.
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Mar 14th, 2013, 00:16 | #65 |
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I checked on my side repeater situation - i have 3 pairs of clear repeaters spare and i'd like to keep 1 pair minimum as a spare set, just in case so there's 2 pairs available.
I have some amber blubs to fit them although not sure how old and amber they are now. If you'd still like the repeaters, send me a PM to say whether you would like 1 pair or both pairs and i'll give you a price. I'll throw the blubs in anyway but just be aware you may be better off fitting new amber bulbs.
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Mar 14th, 2013, 00:20 | #66 |
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No trouble driving LEDs directly from a Microchip PIC; at least the ones I've used. PICs are great.
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Mar 14th, 2013, 08:01 | #67 |
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agreed, they definitely are, as is basic unfortunately closest thing to coding here at uni is matlab which isn't so :P
PM sent re repeaters Richard
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Mar 14th, 2013, 11:57 | #68 | |
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How easy are they to program?
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Mar 14th, 2013, 12:47 | #69 |
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I use a little 'PIC start' kit which I think I paid about £100 for IIRC. It's just a little programmer device with a ZIF socket that connects to your PC via an RS232 cable. The assembly compiler software is free to download from the manufacturer (microchip) and it controls the programmer. Once you have your code written you just download it to the PIC. There are different compilers available so you can program in assembly, BASIC, C, and possibly others too. I prefer to use a C compiler. I find that the clock speed is usually their limitation (typically 10 to 40MHz).
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Mar 14th, 2013, 12:56 | #70 |
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Brings back memories of when i was doing my day release college. We had some "micro-computer evaluation kits" that were basically a Z80 microprocessor and some code entry keypads and with the code sheets etc we could program them to do all kinds of things.
Once the power was removed, so was the program sadly. I'm guessing once the PICs have been programmed, they retain the program? Similar in a way to a GAL chip (Generic Aray Logic) that could be programmed to perform certain logic functions, sometimes even complex logic functions within the same chip? Not sure about PICs but the GALs were a "one hit wonder" in terms of they could only be programmed once. If they failed in service, the item had to be returned to the manufacturer for replacement of the GALs usually.
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