Engine: 70 T5: V70 T5 rough running, any help appreciated.

[r800v6]

Hi PNuT,

I am willing to do the 'extreme caution' test LOL as I live right by a relatively clear but long straight dual carriageway so controlling the boost by pedal rather than mechanics is fine, I just wasn't sure if this could be purely a boost problem from the way that the engine holds back at 3,000rpm I would have thought that a boost problem would just see the boost staying at 3 psi boost but run otherwise normally?
This is by the way my first turbo engine and although I have been a mechanic for over 10 years, I specialised in one specific car and engine right from the start pretty much so have little hands on experience with turbo cars.
I have today fitted a new actuator (thank you FATZ) that was sent to me but haven't yet been able to test drive the car as my fuel pressure test kit requires me to remove the throttle wheel to access the schrader valve and my back is hurting me too much now to go back out and refit that and test drive the car :-(

I did originally have an MBC on the car which I removed after trying it out as it turned out to be more of a bleed valve than an MBC and no matter how much I adjusted it the car would still not boost above 10psi, I do intent to get a 'decent' MBC that actually holds closed until the set boost and then opens rather than this one which is a gated valve that seems to just bleed off some air.
I think the next time I have my car back together and go for a drive I will remove and cap the actuator pipe and carefully try it out, at least that will give me more of an idea of what is happening.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will report back when I have tried it ;-) the post will probably say "anyone know where I can get a new engine from due to bent rods in mine" LOL

Paul.
P.S Just to rule it out I am going to start a new thread requesting either the use or purchase of a spare ECU that I can stick in and try for a few seconds just so I can rule out the injector driver being damaged in this ecu.

[PNuT]

you are probably right as its running from low boost to high boost but its possible you have a slow/sticking boost control solinoid aswell...

i assume you have a standard maped ecu? i have the same model car as you, were abouts in the country are you?

p.s

there is a guy on the 60's forum running a t5 decat & the engine light stays on all the time so it will be another problem to fix

[r800v6]

Yiippeeeee!
I put my throttle wheel back on today so I could run my wife to her mom's house, yesterday I had changed the actuator but didn't get to test drive the car due to my back playing up, anyway not even thinking about the changed actuator I pulled out of the slip road and got onto the main dual carriageway, pulled out to overtake a car and got thrown back as my car lunged forward!!
Boost gauge reading 10psi and the car feeling like it was flying after the way it has drove recently.
How pleased was I??????
Changed gear and floored it, boost shot straight up and the car cruised past 3,000rpm without any complaints, same again in the next gear...amd the next...then I looked at the speedo and bought it way back down to 70mph LOL
So it would seem that this was the last thing that was playing up, the vacuum leaks and the actuator and both started playing up at the same time and this is what caused it to be such a problem to solve as sorting the vacuum leaks still left a minor problem.
Anyway, for future reference I hope somebody will read this and go change their actuator and have been saved all the chasing around I have been doing, strange thing is that when I took the actuator off it was acting perfectly fine, it began to act on the wategate lever at 2psi and opened with more pressure, it did feel a little reluctant to move though and creeked when I pulled on the rod, the actuator wasn't leaking air but the pushrod did spin quite freely inside the actuator. Main thing I noticed is that when setting up the new actuator, to get the rod to sit on the wastegate lever with it closed and 2psi applied (via a foot pump) to the actuator, I had to wind the end and locknut right down to the beginning thread where it wouldn't go anymore, if there had been one less thread going down the road I would have to set it at 1psi.....still with me or am I talking rubbish?

Anyway after a 10 mile journey all was fine and I was very happy!

I must say a big thank you to everyone that read and offered help all of it being very helpful and I hope that I can give some help back to some people on this forum.....THANKS!!

All the best,
Paul.

[r800v6]

Hi PNuT,

I believe the ECU has been remapped but have not confirmed this, the car does feel very quick compared to a standard T5 and I have had loads of problems getting enough LPG to the engine even though the LPG kit was rated at 250bhp...the injectors were being held full open at 4,000rpm and then switching back to petrol.
Apart form sticking it on a dyno do you have any suggestions on how I could confirm the remap?

The decat is a bit of a worry, emmissions should be fine as I run on LPG but the second Lambda probe I assume will be throwing a fault I did read a little into the american forum as their 850's run with 2 sensors and they seem to have had some success with lifting the probe out of the path of the gases by means of an adaptor that elevates the probe......I also looked into a resistor unit that will give the ecu the voltage that it is looking for but obviously this will not cycle so I do have concerns but am hoping I can get around them somehow.
Could you please point me in the right direction of the thread where the gentleman is having problems as it would make an interesting read?
Thanks.

Paul.

[PNuT]

if you are running at 10psi it sounds as though its a standard map, my remap was running at around 1.1bar peak before i stuck the MBC on

the guy having problems is here

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=32673

[r800v6]

Hi PNuT,

Thanks for that, I have just posted on there.
I guess the cheapest option for me would be to keep my OBD software plugged in and just get my missus to keep hitting the 'Clear Fault' button LOL

Paul.

[PNuT]

i just posted again on the other thread, it must be possible for that particular map to be rewritten? or even removed... i assume unplugging the second sensor would bring up a code aswell?

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by PNuT

if you are running at 10psi it sounds as though its a standard map, my remap was running at around 1.1bar peak before i stuck the MBC on

the guy having problems is here

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=32673

.....your running a mbc with your mte map?.....
cheers
jod

[PNuT]

Originally Posted by jod t5

.....your running a mbc with your mte map?.....
cheers
jod

yer, its holding boost much better that way....

im really stuck on whats actually wrong with my car now....

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by PNuT

yer, its holding boost much better that way....

im really stuck on whats actually wrong with my car now....

lol......it will hold the boost better , as you know cos the w/g is shut till the mbc takes effect....
i am still very concerned that the lambda zoorst sensor has the caperbility to adjust the mixture enough to compensate for the extra boost in proportion with the map tables you are running......
do you think its a mte issue?
cheers
jod