New Turbo Fitted now permanent limp mode

[webbyd5]

Hi guys thanks for all your comments I will remove the map this evening and check the fresh air pipe. I think the map is the original so will try this.
Another thing has now happened, I'm having no luck at all at the moment! I sprung a leak on the radiator, so I poured some Radweld into the expansion bottle. I now have extreme pressure in the coolant pipes and bottle so much so the coolant is coming out of the bottle cap. Lots of foaming etc... any ideas?

I can also confirm that the replacement boost control solenoid was second hand and is totally not working as it should. The original is working and is clear when blown into.

Cheers
Dave

[webbyd5]

It is still throwing a engine service required message up when booted in 4th gear only all other ranges seem to be fine?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by webbyd5

I will remove the map this evening

Why?
Your MAP sensor sounds fine.

Clean the boost solenoid properly. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dkPuEmwP4oQ

[JohnL]

You need to record the highest MAP pressure when you boot it 4th gear, preferably when going up a hill with some load in the car. That's the only time you can get an accurate turbo pressure.
The pressure will be higher in this gear as it will load the turbo more and create the turbo pressure.
Once you know this pressure, you will be able to determine the problem.
It may be that the system is looking for a high pressure and not seeing it, so it throws up an error code.
Figures are all important.
John

[webbyd5]

Ok just dine the max pressure test, 37.4psi was the map pressure and it boosted to 22 psi.

Cheers
Dave

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by webbyd5

Ok just dine the max pressure test, 37.4psi was the map pressure and it boosted to 22 psi.

That's too high and overboost is a classic sign of a sticking boost solenoid.
I'll suggest again to clean or alternatively replace it or something will go pop.

[webbyd5]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

That's too high and overboost is a classic sign of a sticking boost solenoid.
I'll suggest again to clean or alternatively replace it or something will go pop.

Cheshired5 just for clarity as i have changed both - are we talking about the solenoid on the front of engine or the one on the airbox?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by webbyd5

Cheshired5 just for clarity as i have changed both - are we talking about the solenoid on the front of engine or the one on the airbox?

The one on the front of the engine.

The under boost then overboost could be the turbo vanes sticking or the actuator rod not moving freely but in your first post, you sound very sure about its operation.

[webbyd5]

Cheers Cheshired5 I took that one off twice last week and cleaned it like on the youtube video. So quite possibly pointing to the turbo vnt operation? But no fault codes now has totally thrown me. I need to sort the high pressure in my cooling system out first now as it keeps pushing coolant through the filler cap after having a leaky radiator and putting Radweld in the system.
I'm not gonna lie the car is totally doing my nut in now and I'm really losing patience with it. It feels like a great motor when it's all working as it should and flew through its MOT last Saturday. This has spurred me on but my missis is having kittens over how much time I'm spending in the garage.
Like I said not having much luck at the minute with cars.
I currently have 3 volvos on the drive and all 3 are having problems.
S60 D5 2001(all in this thread)
V50 D2 2010 flat battery yesterday
S80 2.4 D 2007 her grandads - has a permanent fault on the dash referring to oil quality....

Busy weekend ahead!

[cheshired5]

I would check the actuator arm movement before delving into the turbo.

Maybe start a separate thread for the cooling system but it sounds like you had excess pressure initially which breached the radiator then you've plugged the radiator with Radweld but not diagnosed the excess pressure so it's now going out of the next weakest link, the tank cap.
First guess is thermostat stuck shut there's a few questions to ask about when the problem happens and whether every pipe is too hot to hold, what temperature it occurs at (use your diagnostics)........ that kind of info.

Luckily, cooling system problems are easy to solve so I'll look out for your other thread when you do it.