V70 D5 Auto No Drive - Diagnosing 2007

[Clan]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

Howdy again,

A while since I've been on, had a P1 but sold it Pic of before and after attached Black one, was fun doing it.
Noow just pressed the trigger on a P2 2007 D5 Auto - Sport Model - with No drive...

I haven't got hold of it yet, but just wanted some very high level info on what way to tackle this... is it always a duff Auto or could bad fluid cause no drive?

Mileage 133,500

Once I trailer it back is there any steps I could try to see if I can get it moving again, or should I just ship it to a local transmission place?

Any idea on costs for a Recon Auto supply and fit? - recommendations of places that you trust in the North West/Cheshire ideally... Thanks

The first thing would be is to make sure it had oil in it ... and the colour of it , should be bright cherry red . it wont transmit drive without enough Oil .

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by Clan

The first thing would be is to make sure it had oil in it ... and the colour of it , should be bright cherry red . it wont transmit drive without enough Oil .

Yep, I'll get some auto oil ordered and get my back underneath it... no dipstick so little Torx nut then see if any comes out from what I can see... never done one of those before so learning as I go... thanks...

Read a lot online about flushing and filling if oil gets Dark to get back to Red.
Doesn't seem to have any leaks... but cheap diagnostic again.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

Yep, I'll get some auto oil ordered and get my back underneath it... no dipstick so little Torx nut then see if any comes out from what I can see... never done one of those before so learning as I go... thanks...

Read a lot online about flushing and filling if oil gets Dark to get back to Red.
Doesn't seem to have any leaks... but cheap diagnostic again.

You know how to check the oil level ?

Car has to be level ...
Gearbox oil temperature 60 C ( too hot to hold your hand on it for long )
remove centre level torx screw and WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING Oil should drip out not pour out ... top up with the big TORX plug on the top under the air filter .

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by Clan

You know how to check the oil level ?

Car has to be level ...
Gearbox oil temperature 60 C ( too hot to hold your hand on it for long )
remove centre level torx screw and WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING Oil should drip out not pour out ... top up with the big TORX plug on the top under the air filter .

Thanks, watched a couple of Videos on it... just gotta get a couple of bits and some JWS3309 Spec Oil just in case...

I thought these boxes are sealed for life and where would oil go unless it had a dramatic loss?

Only clue would be that the Seller also said he was using the car for towing, at least that's why he had it.. he is a Classic Car dealer... maybe he pulled one trailer too many which would again point to Torque Convertor worn/knackered I think...

Would a complete Transmission Oil change bring it back to any sort of life do you think if it was Black/Dark in colour?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

Thanks, watched a couple of Videos on it... just gotta get a couple of bits and some JWS3309 Spec Oil just in case...

I thought these boxes are sealed for life and where would oil go unless it had a dramatic loss?

Only clue would be that the Seller also said he was using the car for towing, at least that's why he had it.. he is a Classic Car dealer... maybe he pulled one trailer too many which would again point to Torque Convertor worn/knackered I think...

Would a complete Transmission Oil change bring it back to any sort of life do you think if it was Black/Dark in colour?

The " sealed for life " is an internet Myth , volvo have always had an oil change in the service programme but not mandatory at any regular service , It is up to the service adviser to talk with his customer about this and find out how he uses the car and advice appropriately .

No black oil wouldn't give a loss of drive , it might restrict solenoid valves and make slow or jerky changes though .

It is also important to have regular servicing which updates the gearbox software , there was an update which did a lot of changes with the gearbox and how it adapts for wear , it will come down to rest with low engine braking on the later software . but this will be nothing to do with lack of drive .

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by Clan

The " sealed for life " is an internet Myth , volvo have always had an oil change in the service programme but not mandatory at any regular service , It is up to the service adviser to talk with his customer about this and find out how he uses the car and advice appropriately .

No black oil wouldn't give a loss of drive , it might restrict solenoid valves and make slow or jerky changes though .

It is also important to have regular servicing which updates the gearbox software , there was an update which did a lot of changes with the gearbox and how it adapts for wear , it will come down to rest with low engine braking on the later software . but this will be nothing to do with lack of drive .

Got ya, thanks Clan - I don't really understand Auto boxes, which is part of the reason I bought the car in an odd way, wanted to see if I could fix it...

Thanks for explaining things in simple terms... I've switched lots of Clutches on Manual Cars and Bikes... just watched a couple of "Torque Convertor" videos so I'm getting there - I can see how Fluid is crucial and that a Clutch is also in play...

The Car has a pretty full Volvo service history, but not clear whether it has ever had a Box fluid change... I would have hoped so though.

I've ordered a Tray, and 10 litres of Box oil so I can flush out 3 litres at a time and see where we get too, replacing Old with New... Guess that's the last chance saloon if it is at the right level?

[bluebossa]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

Got ya, thanks Clan - I don't really understand Auto boxes, which is part of the reason I bought the car in an odd way, wanted to see if I could fix it...

Thanks for explaining things in simple terms... I've switched lots of Clutches on Manual Cars and Bikes... just watched a couple of "Torque Convertor" videos so I'm getting there - I can see how Fluid is crucial and that a Clutch is also in play...

The Car has a pretty full Volvo service history, but not clear whether it has ever had a Box fluid change... I would have hoped so though.

I've ordered a Tray, and 10 litres of Box oil so I can flush out 3 litres at a time and see where we get too, replacing Old with New... Guess that's the last chance saloon if it is at the right level?

With the Video I uploaded, would you write off any Electronic Issue now that you saw the Wheels move?

[john493]

You're only just up the road from Simon (CheshireD5 on here) - he's a VIDA guru & often has tested units available:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/member.php?u=128312

Clan is usually right since he's been working on Volvos most of his working life - and you need VIDA to read out the oil temp. I'd really not spend anymore time/ money until the car is scanned with VIDA.
THT
John

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by bluebossa

With the Video I uploaded, would you write off any Electronic Issue now that you saw the Wheels move?

I was going to question that as well, clearly there's some life there.. mind you i recall being surprised with an old civic once just being in neutral the wheels still turned when up on stands, due to oil drag inside the box, I dont know how that relates to auto

seeing as the fluid change is so easy and cheap it doesn't hurt to try that first

usually i believe the conventional wisdom is do 2-300 miles between each change (3x at least) but obviously you won't have that option.. i wonder in this case if the gibbons method is better to go through the whole bottle. the general gist being, where the gearbox has two pipes which use a section of the rad as a fluid cooler, disconnect those, have one connected to an empty tub to empty the old stuff, and one pulling in the fresh fluid. Run the engine until the fresh fluid is used up. pretty much the same as how you'd flush the power steering

check with others what they think though because I've heard people advise against it

not to forget the old warning make sure you can get the fill hole open before you drain it.. although in your case it's already stranded

re clutch, correct if wrong but that doesn't connect until the temps are reached and the control module tells it to engage? so from cold it wouldn't be a decisive factor anyway. again check that with someone who actually knows what they're talking about though lol

[john493]

Just rewinding a bit - what was the seller's explanation as to when drive was lost ? Presumably he drove it back from the CV boot MOT failure - what happened next ? What work was done ?
John