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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice, Part 2!Views : 48640 Replies : 671Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 25th, 2020, 18:36 | #51 |
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Hugely satisfying, Alan - especially as a dad taking/ working with his boy through his first steps to learning about this stuff. And much easier with two, I'd think. I was aware that our attitude to the process - steady steps, double checking and all - were as important as the outcome, and in the end it all worked fine. He wanted to start it up to test it was good but I said I would in case anything went horribly wrong - at least it'd be my fault, not his. All was good and we went for a celebratory drive. It has to be the coolest car anywhere, I was as proud as him! Happy fellas.
Loki - the steering's the same I'm afraid - I gave the u-joints another spray today in case, we'll see. It's fine on the road, but when moving slowly it's quite an effort. I couldn't find a fault-finding page for this in Haynes - what else could it be? And btw, having the crank lock was brilliant - it'd be another level of struggle without! Thank you. |
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Aug 25th, 2020, 23:53 | #52 |
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Nice one- sounds like a fun day.
A reminder- the cambelt tensioner on these engines is not self-adjusting, it only takes up slack in the belt when the nut holding the cambelt tensioner pulley is slackened off. With a new belt fitted that nut needs to be slacked off (just until it’s loose) and tightened up again periodically to take up slack as the new belt stretches slightly. There is a rubber bung in the front of the cambelt cover for this- take the bung out, slacken the nut off with a socket, re-tighten and replace the bung. For the avoidance of doubt the engine should not be running at the time. I don’t know the intervals, but I think volvo stated after 500 or perhaps 1000 miles. I deliberately do this procedure more often as it literally takes two minutes- after the first drive, again after a week, again after a month etc. The pas belt should be slightly longer but I’ve found lots of places just stock/list the slightly shorter ones for the crank/waterpump/alternator- since those can be forced into the pas pump no-one ever got round to updating the fitting database. Brookhouse has the correct sized belts- hence why your new belt fitted properly. Cheers |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 06:57 | #53 | |
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Good theory about the PAS belt - I had not heard that previously but it does sound plausible. Alan |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 08:42 | #54 | |
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Is my memory right Bugjam. Has it been said recently and if so it sounds likely to be right, that the re-tensioning should be done with the engine at TDC, probably number one at TDC? That is the engine position for fitting and tensioning the belt so it makes a tad of sense for re-tensioning. . |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 11:58 | #55 | |
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You might try a partial change of the ATF in the steering pump - somethimes that helps. Alan |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 16:15 | #56 | |
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Cheers |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 18:05 | #57 |
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Thanks Bugjam, I had no idea so we'll be doing that.
Today I had the timing belt done on my VW at the independent Volvo garage I've used the last 14 years - worked out rather more expensive than the one we did yesterday. I proudly told the owner how we'd managed the task in under 4 hours, and he smiled. He's a quiet, modest man, which made his response all the more shocking to me - apparently, he used to be able to do them on a 240 in about 10 minutes, assuming all the tools were laid out ready at the start. He even listed off the top of the head all the socket sizes needed for each part. From many I'd think it just bravado, but I believe him - he started working when 240s were common in their workshop, and reckoned he'd done several hundred over the years. 10 minutes/ 4 hours! Something I noticed about the power steering - it works nice and light to the left even when hardly moving, but turning right is when it's heavy - any ideas what might cause that? |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 18:18 | #58 |
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Are the steering ball joints free & associated parts?
I have done a power steering fluid change some time back on a 240 (brief details already submitted) Turkey baster rather than trying to drain- I had been very surprised at the difference it made after replacing tied fluid etc. It was never really bad but the change improved it further. Hope it helps. Bob. |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 18:28 | #59 | |
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Thanks Bob. ps 'Track rod ball joint has slight play Offside' appears on the last MoT - could that be the issue? I have the feeling the last MoT followed some 'old-fashioned' methods. Last edited by Chris152; Aug 26th, 2020 at 18:35. |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 19:43 | #60 |
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If the ball joints have failing rubber dust boots then dirt/water can spoil the lubrication leading to excessive wear or stiffness within the joints- well worth checking as your problem is being narrowed down to the offside:~
You could release the same and check for any improvements- not expensive items so probably better to replace both sides-same for the fluid change ie quite easy and no great cost. Good Luck. Bob. |
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