B230FD Problems :)

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It's meant to cycle lean-rich-lean-rich............... on idle. A Lambda of 1 at high rpm is perfect.


Thing is, because of the leak and poor earth on plug #4, on idle it won't fire properly. Bring the revs up and you increase the dynamic compression which gives it a better chance at firing - also by increasing the engine speed, you bring the frequency the coil is running at more into its optimum output range so the extra voltage is then able to overcome the poor earth on the plug and fire the plug.

That's why i kept repeating the suggestion that you need to get the head off, take it to a machine shop and have the plug hole Helicoiled. I know what it's like when you want to fix it and don't want to have to take the head off but if the plug thread has failed in the head, that's the only way of fixing it, unless you have another head somewhere nearby.

For future reference, use a piece of garden hose to hold the plug as you refit it and start the threads turning. If it goes in cross-threade which is what damages the threads, it will stop before damage is done that way. If it's going in as it should be, it will go a few turns before the natural resistance of the thread overcomes the friction of the hose on the plug body.

Another alternative is a pice of 6mm fuel hose on an old screwdriver, fit the end of the plug in the hose and do the same. Again, if it's going in straight it will go in several turns before the hose slips, if it goes cross-threaded, the hose will slip as soon as it does.

I meant it goes rich on idle and almost dies on idling

[aardvarkash10]

good god man - why take the head off for a helicoil?

Its a 15 minute job for a mechanic to helicoil a new thread into the head. Pay the money for that and you save on all the dicking around gaskets, bolts etc of a head-off job.

Once you have a thread in #4 start from scratch and METHODICALLY do a Stage Zero tune process. As you work through, correct what you find. Stop assuming stuff, stop jumping from one thing to the next, stop swapping **** around that doesn't need to be.

Patience of a saint on you there Dave...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

Patience of a saint on you there Dave...

Yeah................. my halo has slipped though Ash and it's choking me..............

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Yeah................. my halo has slipped though Ash and it's choking me..............

Yo dude

Does my Volvo have an in tank prepump? 1994 B230fd Bosch. 2.3? My new pump is loud. Just a question. Yes I will thread my head. So don’t worry

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Yo dude

Does my Volvo have an in tank prepump? 1994 B230fd Bosch. 2.3? My new pump is loud. Just a question. Yes I will thread my head. So don’t worry

It has both, in-tank pump and underbody pressure pump. Which new pump is loud?

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It has both, in-tank pump and underbody pressure pump. Which new pump is loud?

My main pump with my fuel filter is loud. I bought my car 1.5 years ago and the main pump wasn’t loud. I changed mainpump months ago. And now it’s loud again. So I think if I have a prepump. That’s either clogged or found bad. Will cause my mainpump whirring loud. Could it also be my prepump?
And I’ll swap fuel rail. Pressure regulator and injectors.

But I’ve found this pump. (See picture) is this the correct pump for my intank pump?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

My main pump with my fuel filter is loud. I bought my car 1.5 years ago and the main pump wasn’t loud. I changed mainpump months ago. And now it’s loud again. So I think if I have a prepump. That’s either clogged or found bad. Will cause my mainpump whirring loud. Could it also be my prepump?
And I’ll swap fuel rail. Pressure regulator and injectors.

But I’ve found this pump. (See picture) is this the correct pump for my intank pump?

It sounds as if you have an in-tank pump problem and the main pump isn't getting the flow of fuel that it should. Usually the filter sock on the end clogs and collapses but that will cause fuel starvation, not rich running.

Like Ash said further up, you need to sort the head and then go back to basics. That means not changing bits without thought, diagnosis and confirmation.

All i can see is a generic picture of a 7/9xx in-tank pump, who knows if it's the right one? Have a look here and be pleasantly surprised at the prices!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

You can change the language to your own language and same with the currency.

You will also need the tank seal if you change the in-tank pump and nimble fingers plus a lot of patience. I can do it in about 20 minutes but i've had a lot of practice now!



That's the tank seal ^^^^^, a Volvo item, can't remember the part number just now but should be able to find it tomorrow. If not, your local Volvo dealer can find it easily enough, it's about £11 in the UK, no idea on price where you are.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It sounds as if you have an in-tank pump problem and the main pump isn't getting the flow of fuel that it should. Usually the filter sock on the end clogs and collapses but that will cause fuel starvation, not rich running.

Like Ash said further up, you need to sort the head and then go back to basics. That means not changing bits without thought, diagnosis and confirmation.

All i can see is a generic picture of a 7/9xx in-tank pump, who knows if it's the right one? Have a look here and be pleasantly surprised at the prices!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

You can change the language to your own language and same with the currency.

You will also need the tank seal if you change the in-tank pump and nimble fingers plus a lot of patience. I can do it in about 20 minutes but i've had a lot of practice now!



That's the tank seal ^^^^^, a Volvo item, can't remember the part number just now but should be able to find it tomorrow. If not, your local Volvo dealer can find it easily enough, it's about £11 in the UK, no idea on price where you are.

I agree with that part. Rich running. But I’d like to change that pump. And also that head will be threaded. But needs new bolts for the head. One time use only bolt. pin bolts. My currency is NOK Norwegian Kroner. 11£ is about 132NOK

It’s that seal for the pump bad over time? My distributor that I changed is from a FK engine. That shaft that hits the cam and hold it i place is loose. (See picture)

My old distributor had no play butter shaft had play

Edit: I’ve never had fuel starvation.

[Laird Scooby]

If the replacement dizzy has no play or loose parts where they shouldn't be, that should clear one possible problem. If it's running rich for certain then the CTS is the usual first suspect but you need to fix the head first or the results you get will be nonsense as the engine won't be capable of running right.

Would be worth testing the in-tank pump while the head is being repaired as well.

[aardvarkash10]

get a fuel pressure guage and check the line pressure. If the pump is not delivering in sufficient quantity, the fuel pressure will drop.

The engine may well test as running rich if one cylinder is only firing erratically. Until the #4 cylinder problem is resolved, your exhaust gas content is irrelevant.

When you say the distributor shaft os loose, do you mean it has side-play? If so, how much? Because unless its in the range of several millimetres side play will not affect the operation of the distributor.

Focus. Fix one thing at a time. Helicoil first.

Sigh - good to see at least we agree Dave.