S40 (New) Engine 2.0D : - Still no Boost - Page 5

138gat · Jul 13th, 2012, 20:06

Can anyone tell me will air in the fuel system significantly reduce power ? mainly on hills and motorway.
It's due to have the fuel filter changed, could this be it ?
It ticks over nice and revs well when stationary
New Tbc fitted
Euro 3 no dpf
Blanked Egr and pulled plug, this helped a bit

cheers in advance

superstonks · Jul 15th, 2012, 12:14

Hi, some air in the return to the filter can sometimes be seen, this is from the leak off pipes. As long as the fuel going to the High pressure pump is clear, it should be OK.

MikeLB · Jul 29th, 2012, 09:27

138gat - have you replaced the small vacumn pipe at the front of the engine. If not, then seriously consider doing do before spending more money!

I had this for a few months, gradually getting worse and worse - The Dealer diagnosed the Turbo Control Valve as this was the error code which kept coming up but but they replaced it which had no effect so the error codes produced were a complete red herring. I tracked it down to the infamous Vacumn Pipe, which I temporarily gaffer taped up to reseal to prove the fault and it which worked fine.

The fault was completely random for the first month then gradually became more persistent but the part which really threw me was when you hit 3500, the car would accelerate as normal, it was the 1750 - 3200 rpm range that was worst affected.

A quick scan online also confirmed the pipe was behind problems on Volvo, Ford and Mazda 1.6d and 2.0d Engines worldwide so it is very common but not very easy to immediately see in the engine bay!

Then I used a more sturdy bit of hose from the local hard ware shop which was also considerably cheaper - been fine ever since!

138gat · Jul 29th, 2012, 10:18

Did you just replace the pipes to the Turbo control valve ?

MikeLB · Jul 29th, 2012, 10:29

Nope - I only replaced one pipe - picture attached. You wont necessarily feel any cracks or splits on it due to how tightly installed the factory original is - No tools required to remove at all, so remove for inspection is easiest.

Even dealer was surprised when is showed them the fix but I think they use my car as a test bed for faults anyway due to the mileage being the highest of any S40 they looked after!

138gat · Jul 29th, 2012, 10:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeLB

Nope - I only replaced one pipe - picture attached. You wont necessarily feel any cracks or splits on it due to how tightly installed the factory original is - No tools required to remove at all, so remove for inspection is easiest.

Even dealer was surprised when is showed them the fix but I think they use my car as a test bed for faults anyway due to the mileage being the highest of any S40 they looked after!

Correct me if i'm wrong but is that pipe goes to the anti shudder valve not the Turbo control valve, even though they are both the same part and part number.
If I can find some pipe cheap enough I'll change them all, (about £40 from volvo)

MikeLB · Jul 29th, 2012, 10:54

This pipe creates a vacumn which off the top of my head does sort of pressure feedback from the inlet manifold which in turn gives turbo boost - if the pipe has a split, then the turbo doesn't think there is enough pressure so doesn't perform as it should

Though that explanation is probably wrong but it basically creates the error codes you've described as well. The error codes only show something is not working properly, it doesn't necessarily mean that exact part is actually broken which is why they should be used as a guide to fault finding and not always gospel

You can perform a quick check in minutes with the removal of it and if you find a suspect split, wrap the pipe in gaffer tape to prove or disprove the problem whilst waiting for a new piece of flexy rubber pipe - think I paid about £2 from the DIY Shop ... Sometimes the most simple, cheapest solution is the answer!

138gat · Jul 29th, 2012, 13:45

Found a piece of pipe in my garage (surprising what rubbish you keep) problem being it fits nice and snug at the throttle body end but is a bit slack on the nozzle for the control valve so i've had to put a short section of smaller bore pipe on that bit. (about an inch long)
What i have noticed is that the original pipe is very soft, so could it be sucking the pipe in and restricting airflow ? if you know what i mean.
Took it for a bit of a run and i'm not totally convinced yet, need to go for a proper run, motorway hills etc
Will keep you posted

MikeLB · Jul 29th, 2012, 13:56

Any slack in the connections will have an effect, it needs to be a very tight fit and a single piece of pipe only - its not an airflow restriction problem it is the opposite too much air problem - any excess air being sucked in affects the vacuum, prevents the 'feedback' and thus makes the control valves think there is a problem.

MikeLB · Jul 29th, 2012, 14:06

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=158567&page=3 - some handy photos of the pipe for both versions of the Engine ...

Jul 29th, 2012, 09:27	#43
MikeLB Junior Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2012 10:52 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Inverness	138gat - have you replaced the small vacumn pipe at the front of the engine. If not, then seriously consider doing do before spending more money! I had this for a few months, gradually getting worse and worse - The Dealer diagnosed the Turbo Control Valve as this was the error code which kept coming up but but they replaced it which had no effect so the error codes produced were a complete red herring. I tracked it down to the infamous Vacumn Pipe, which I temporarily gaffer taped up to reseal to prove the fault and it which worked fine. The fault was completely random for the first month then gradually became more persistent but the part which really threw me was when you hit 3500, the car would accelerate as normal, it was the 1750 - 3200 rpm range that was worst affected. A quick scan online also confirmed the pipe was behind problems on Volvo, Ford and Mazda 1.6d and 2.0d Engines worldwide so it is very common but not very easy to immediately see in the engine bay! Then I used a more sturdy bit of hose from the local hard ware shop which was also considerably cheaper - been fine ever since! Last edited by MikeLB; Jul 29th, 2012 at 09:40.

Jul 29th, 2012, 13:56	#49
MikeLB Junior Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2012 10:52 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Inverness	Any slack in the connections will have an effect, it needs to be a very tight fit and a single piece of pipe only - its not an airflow restriction problem it is the opposite too much air problem - any excess air being sucked in affects the vacuum, prevents the 'feedback' and thus makes the control valves think there is a problem. Last edited by MikeLB; Jul 29th, 2012 at 14:12.

Jul 13th, 2012, 20:06	#41
138gat 138gat Last Online: Mar 29th, 2020 13:40 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Burnley	Can anyone tell me will air in the fuel system significantly reduce power ? mainly on hills and motorway. It's due to have the fuel filter changed, could this be it ? It ticks over nice and revs well when stationary New Tbc fitted Euro 3 no dpf Blanked Egr and pulled plug, this helped a bit cheers in advance

Jul 15th, 2012, 12:14	#42
superstonks New Member Last Online: Jul 15th, 2012 12:19 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Bucks	Hi, some air in the return to the filter can sometimes be seen, this is from the leak off pipes. As long as the fuel going to the High pressure pump is clear, it should be OK.

Jul 29th, 2012, 10:18	#44
138gat 138gat Last Online: Mar 29th, 2020 13:40 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Burnley	Did you just replace the pipes to the Turbo control valve ?

Jul 29th, 2012, 10:54	#47
MikeLB Junior Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2012 10:52 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Inverness	This pipe creates a vacumn which off the top of my head does sort of pressure feedback from the inlet manifold which in turn gives turbo boost - if the pipe has a split, then the turbo doesn't think there is enough pressure so doesn't perform as it should Though that explanation is probably wrong but it basically creates the error codes you've described as well. The error codes only show something is not working properly, it doesn't necessarily mean that exact part is actually broken which is why they should be used as a guide to fault finding and not always gospel You can perform a quick check in minutes with the removal of it and if you find a suspect split, wrap the pipe in gaffer tape to prove or disprove the problem whilst waiting for a new piece of flexy rubber pipe - think I paid about £2 from the DIY Shop ... Sometimes the most simple, cheapest solution is the answer!

Jul 29th, 2012, 13:45	#48
138gat 138gat Last Online: Mar 29th, 2020 13:40 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Burnley	Found a piece of pipe in my garage (surprising what rubbish you keep) problem being it fits nice and snug at the throttle body end but is a bit slack on the nozzle for the control valve so i've had to put a short section of smaller bore pipe on that bit. (about an inch long) What i have noticed is that the original pipe is very soft, so could it be sucking the pipe in and restricting airflow ? if you know what i mean. Took it for a bit of a run and i'm not totally convinced yet, need to go for a proper run, motorway hills etc Will keep you posted

Jul 29th, 2012, 14:06	#50
MikeLB Junior Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2012 10:52 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Inverness	http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=158567&page=3 - some handy photos of the pipe for both versions of the Engine ...

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