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Volvos and chip fat

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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 22:05   #41
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But why do it unless you have to? Modern diesel will be just as effective and is what your engine is designed to use.Roy
stops (or reduces) waxing and lets you keep on driving
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 22:24   #42
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well i did suspect it was the 2.4 TD engine but i like to hear that from the horses mouth

i have to say there are theories practical experiences and facts here and it is difficult to sort out one from the other. Elsewhere you can read about increasing injector pressure AND lowering injector pressure as well as modifying spray patterns - all supposed to be better for running your car on SVO. I know Esbett do their own injector nozzles and i think they up the pressure too - that is just their way of doing things and while they 'benefit' from the German Engineering label there are many many ways to skin this particular cat. It would appear that the most successful people have been doing this for eons with their own home made kits. I for instance have a car that is listed as being totally unsuitable (discovered after i had bought it) - but then it was a cheap experiment - and it runs like a sewing machine quite happily on various mixtures of SVO. It can sit for days at a time and has been sitting unused for about three/four weeks now as it is not taxed ATM and it started easy peasy today when i was photographing the heated fuel filter. Soon to be doing my own experiments on a 2.4 TD so i am sure i will post lots of pictures and a write up as i both convert it to SVO/WVO and as i modify it to extract a few(lots) more HP from the engine. Re: the injector pipe heating kit that you posted there are at least another two kits that just use DC heating wire wound round these pipes. Doing it this way you don't have the electronic AC modulator/converter that only seems to be able to handle three cylinders four at a push so it is simpler and a cheaper way. Also i cant remember what the temperature is that you need to get SVO up to so that it has the same viscosity as diesel but i seriously doubt if any of these 'heat the injector pipe systems' can do that.
I have to say I really admire someone who does their own research and makes their own convesion kit.

The veg oil and diesel characteristic become the same at when the temperature reaches 120 C degrees if I remember correctly. The injector heating kit can do up to 6 cylinders. For engines with more than 6 you need to use more that one kit. It heats the oil to 120 C to 140 C.

They say not to heat the oil above 150 C.

Here's their installation manual in case you find it of use.

Roy
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File Type: pdf BIOplantrixIDH1224manualEN.pdf (159.9 KB, 9 views)
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 22:26   #43
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stops (or reduces) waxing and lets you keep on driving
So wil mixing with diesel.

Roy
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Old Nov 29th, 2007, 23:42   #44
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I have to say I really admire someone who does their own research and makes their own convesion kit.

The veg oil and diesel characteristic become the same at when the temperature reaches 120 C degrees if I remember correctly. The injector heating kit can do up to 6 cylinders. For engines with more than 6 you need to use more that one kit. It heats the oil to 120 C to 140 C.

They say not to heat the oil above 150 C.

Here's their installation manual in case you find it of use.

Roy
i had read the manual thanks

and it says on page two - "for 6 Cyl engines the use of two separate systems is recommended" - it also says dependent on circumstances <SIK> it can take upto 3 minutes to get the temp up to 120/140 deg C - it does look good (interesting) but looks a bit complex they even say the electronic module needs to be kept cool yet they dont supply a fan cooled unit - 12V mini muffin fans are like for nothing - it all looks a little Heath Robinson for a commercial product with tie wraps and bits of silicon tubing and a lash up temperature probe
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Last edited by DLM48; Nov 29th, 2007 at 23:59.
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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 00:03   #45
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So wil mixing with diesel.

Roy
actually i was saying that for years HGV drivers and others like the emergency services had laced their diesel with up to 10% petrol in winter so that they could operate their vehicles in very very cold weather when diesel would wax up and bring them to a grinding stop.
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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 01:38   #46
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i had read the manual thanks

and it says on page two - "for 6 Cyl engines the use of two separate systems is recommended" - it also says dependent on circumstances <SIK> it can take upto 3 minutes to get the temp up to 120/140 deg C - it does look good (interesting) but looks a bit complex they even say the electronic module needs to be kept cool yet they dont supply a fan cooled unit - 12V mini muffin fans are like for nothing - it all looks a little Heath Robinson for a commercial product with tie wraps and bits of silicon tubing and a lash up temperature probe
Sorry, I read the maual at about 3 am, problably not a good idea in retrospect. 3000 cc and 6 cylinder and above use 2 kits. Still think it's brilliant. Maybe you could improve on it though?

I couldn't find the bit that said it needed to be kept cool, just that it needed adequate airflow and not to mount it within 500mm of a heat source like the exhaust. Says it has an internal cutout if it gets too hot.

It does say the current version was developed for experimental use, so maybe that's why it's not as perfect as you think it should be?

Roy
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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 02:09   #47
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actually i was saying that for years HGV drivers and others like the emergency services had laced their diesel with up to 10% petrol in winter so that they could operate their vehicles in very very cold weather when diesel would wax up and bring them to a grinding stop.
Well I've been looking to see if it's good practice and I havn't found it recommnded yet. This site has info on starting at below -20C but they don't advocate the use of petrol. They say use kerosene or an additive if your not using winter diesel.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/cold_wx.htm

Another web site says

MYTH #5
You should occasionally mix a gallon of gasoline with a tankful of diesel fuel to clean the fuel injectors and remove carbon from the cylinders.

FACT
Don’t do it! Gasoline, even in low concentrations, destroys the lubricity of diesel fuel and can quickly destroy the diesel’s expensive fuel injection pump. Gas in diesel fuel also increases the combustion temperature and can actually damage the expensive fuel injection nozzles. And lastly, today’s diesel fuel does not gum up fuel injectors, or build carbon deposit in the cylinders as was sometimes the case many years ago.
Don’t ever mix gasoline, or alcohol, with diesel fuel.

http://www.bankspower.com/tech_TD-fact-Fiction.cfm

http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm

Ford say don't do it...

http://www.ford.com.au/servlet/Conte...1024&c=DFYPage

I did read a short blog that said it used to be done about 20 years ago, but that's all I could find other than stuff saying don't do it.

Roy



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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 10:12   #48
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The Volvo owners handbook recommends a mix of upto 10% petrol during cold weather. Though I can't recall if it specifies what constitutes weather cold enough to use it.

It does seems that people who use SVO often have their preferred mix of SVO, diesel, petrol, meths, acetone and various other things.

As the owners manual did say that that petrol could be mixed with diesel, I was fairly happy to try it with vegetable oil to thin it out a bit. If it had worked it would have reduced my overall fuels costs from about 80p a litre using 50/50 to around 60p a litre.

I am looking forward to fitting the Elsbett injectors to see if I can run on 100% SVO as Elsbett claim.

regards

TFB
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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 17:09   #49
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The Volvo owners handbook recommends a mix of upto 10% petrol during cold weather. Though I can't recall if it specifies what constitutes weather cold enough to use it.

It does seems that people who use SVO often have their preferred mix of SVO, diesel, petrol, meths, acetone and various other things.

As the owners manual did say that that petrol could be mixed with diesel, I was fairly happy to try it with vegetable oil to thin it out a bit. If it had worked it would have reduced my overall fuels costs from about 80p a litre using 50/50 to around 60p a litre.

I am looking forward to fitting the Elsbett injectors to see if I can run on 100% SVO as Elsbett claim.

regards

TFB
Is that the 940 handbook? I can't find anything in my 2003 XC90 D5 handbook.

I did read that VW recomended the use a small quantity of petrol in very cold weather on the original Golf diesel, which of course is what the 940 is, plus an extra couple of cylinders, for a while back in the eighties, but that now they recommend a special additive (Standyne) if winter diesel starts to thicken in extreme cold. (-30 C)

Roy
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Old Nov 30th, 2007, 19:21   #50
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i should add that modern HGV's have 'a blue tank ' (Was driving a brand new Volvo one today was nice but a bit gutless) 'i think' - i am not 100% sure that this is winter antifreeze how the vehicle knows when and how to mix it i know not modern lectronic diesels with CAN bus and similar things are just too new fangled for me - give me an inline mechanical pump any day he he. I have a few friends who should know one is a CAN Bus expert Terex dump trucks so i will make a few enquires and report back ASAP.

PILLOCK is me...............AD BLUE is an Urea Solution - Urea Solutions a range of urea solutions to treat exhaust and flue gasses to comply with environmental legislation.

32.5% Urea Solution is required by Euro 4 & 5 trucks fitted with SCR (Selective Catalyst Reaction) equipment. The 32.5% Urea Solution is the additive pumped into the exhaust stream via the SCR dosing unit to react with the NOx in the catalyst. This has the effect of reducing the NOx levels coming out of the exhaust stream and into the atmosphere. NOx have been associated with many health problems, and cause most acute problems in towns and city's where their concentration is highest.
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Last edited by DLM48; Nov 30th, 2007 at 19:30. Reason: added AD BLUE data
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