Engine won't rev and hunts

[ANDTWENTY]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

A significant fault suggests something on the power management, software or a critical component failure. I've not heard the term "tile" and suspect it may be a term they use to describe a particular component because of a resemblance to a tile.

From the description of what they've done, they have reconditioned the ECU by replacing all the common fault components so it's entirely possible it was one of those causing the problem.

As far as i'm aware, pressed metal plates are still fine, they're still being sold on fleabay as road legal :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-2x-3...T/123760152037

Those emissions are good, very good in fact! The cat probably isn't doing much (if it's still fitted and/or intact if it is fitted) but running very well regardless!

The shocks have to come off to replace the springs so in terms of labour, there's very little in it.

There's a nut at the top of the spring, more or less central, holding a plate that secures the top of the spring, easiest to get at with a long extension from the bottom of the spring, think (from memory) it's an 18mm socket for that one but if you jack up one side using a trolley jack on the spring pan, fit an axle stand under the jacking point, remove the wheel, loosen the shock top bolt, remove the shock bottom bolt and nut and then (assuming you've already removed the nut at the top of the spring) gently lower the trolley jack, the shock absorber will come out of the trailing arm and the top shock bolt can then be removed. Lowering the jack further and the spring should pop out - if it's a Nivo spring, even at full droop of the traling arm, you might need to lever it a little to get the spring out.

Fit the top eye of the new shock in place and secure lightly with the bolt, put the disc inside the new spring and fit the nut loosely, jack the trailing arm up so the spring sits in the spring pan and you can extend the shock to get the bottom bolt through and fit the nut loosely.
Raise the trolley jack so you could (in theory) remove the axle stand, tighten the various nuts and bolts, fit the wheel and remove the axle stand then lower it back to the ground.



Those are the torque settings for the rear end.

Do similar the other side, torque the wheel nuts to 85Nm or 63lb/ft, take it for a test drive and enjoy!

the only way he described a tile to me was an upright component, not much help?
Either way I'm just happy it works and if they've replaced stuff to future proof it then I'm even happier, got more for my money and don't have to worry about anymore issues down the road.

Yea those metal plates look good, going to send off for the v5 tomorrow when I tax it and once I get the v5 I can buy some plates.

I need to check what type of shocks I have on the back and order new ones or potentially new springs too. thanks for the guide on how to do it and the torque settings! should be simple enough to do, good to have the tips for this though!!

[ANDTWENTY]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

The rear shocks are simple to remove. One flange screw at top and one flange screw and self locking flange nut on the bottom. They have probably been on a while so suggest descale around the lower ones and some releasing fluid. You may need a deep drive 18mm socket for the flange nut due to the length of the screw protruding beyond the nut. Once free turn the shocker through 90 degrees to lift the bottom eye out of the lower suspension arm. If you need to press the suspension arm down to obtain some clearance to actually remove the shocker this may release the bottom of the spring from it’s cup so ensure that it is correctly relocated when reassembling. The upper flange screws should be reusable but if the lower ones are not they are still available as a dealer part.
Apologies if I am teaching granny to suck eggs.

Dave beat me to it.
I removed both top and bottom bolts. The bottom eye on my Nivos wouldn’t lift straight up out of the suspension arm which is why I had to push the eye down out of the suspension arm then turn the shocker through 90 degrees to lift it out.

Thanks for the help, should be simple enough but good to have the useful tips from people that have done it before! I have done most things to cars but not these so good to have some pointers, thanks!!

[griston64]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhaxlJvcbRE

I spoke to an old guy about a fortnight ago and he said the original springs are very well made ( as in better than cheap replacements ) and you are better keeping them and just replace shocks.

[ANDTWENTY]

Originally Posted by griston64

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhaxlJvcbRE

I spoke to an old guy about a fortnight ago and he said the original springs are very well made ( as in better than cheap replacements ) and you are better keeping them and just replace shocks.

Thanks for the link! Provided they aren't the nivomat ones and the springs aren't damaged which they weren't I would keep the springs, no point in replacing them if I don't need to. Some people say to not replace both shocks, just do the one thats gone.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by ANDTWENTY

Thanks for the link! Provided they aren't the nivomat ones and the springs aren't damaged which they weren't I would keep the springs, no point in replacing them if I don't need to. Some people say to not replace both shocks, just do the one thats gone.

I would deffo do both shocks

[griston64]

Bilstein B4 rears aren't that expensive either

[griston64]

£25.00 each https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brow...59171ce8cb57e/

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by griston64

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhaxlJvcbRE

I spoke to an old guy about a fortnight ago and he said the original springs are very well made ( as in better than cheap replacements ) and you are better keeping them and just replace shocks.

All depends Mark - if they're for the Nivos then they must be replaced when changing to proper shock absorbers.

Either way, they're 30 years old now and past their best.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by griston64

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhaxlJvcbRE

I spoke to an old guy about a fortnight ago and he said the original springs are very well made ( as in better than cheap replacements ) and you are better keeping them and just replace shocks.

Yes the original springs are top quality , but what no one has told you yet is the reason for changing the springs !
The nivomat levelling dampers need a soft spring , to enable the up and down motion to pump up the height .. the dampers themselves also support some of the load .

The standard suspension dampers use harder springs and the dampers do not support any of the load ...

If you just change the nivomats for standard dampers and do not change the springs the rear end will be dragging the ground almost !

[Ian21401]

The RNS shocker on my 1992 940 was faulty when I bought it in 2005. I didn’t then know anything about Nivos. When I enquired about replacement shocks I was advised that my car was fitted with Nivos and one would cost £400.00. I couldn’t afford that so fitted a pair of Monroe standard shocks. Yes, the rear end sagged a bit. It didn’t look right but passed it’s MOT and drove OK. I know now that it sagged because of the softer springs. I later managed to acquire a pair of Boge self levellers and fitted them so back to how it should be. There is some disagreement as to the benefit, or otherwise, of self levellers, but they work for me. I’ve just replaced the rubber bellows on my Boges so as I’ve spent money and time doing so that guy Murphy will come along and one of them will fail.