240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by wisty

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'd be honoured to take over the thread for the RB. I think it's an incredible document and nice to keep it going. I'm open to starting a new thread though if people prefer.

I've just figured out today how to subscribe to threads so it lets me know if someone posts so apologies for my slow replies. I've been waiting for the diaphragm to arrive. I treated myself to a magnetic tray too. Hopefully I will get a chance to clean the carb today and put the new diaphragm on.

Best wishes to all but especially Alan.

Hi Kelton,

This index for the RB/Barge thread comes free in the box:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...02#post2901702

Early(ish) in the life of the RB thread someone complained that they didn't like the format and that I should have started a separate thread for each new issue that came up. The consensus at the time was that folk preferred the information all in one thread (like a journal) so the answer was the index. I have updated it from time to time - whenever I thought there was enough new stuff to report.

Good fortune,

Alan

[wisty]

Thanks Alan. I turned up the idle ain your pic and it sounds so much better! I set it at 1100 in p. When I moved it to d it dropped to about 700 revs (stationary). I picked up some Wynn's today and I am shortly off to top up the tank then put it in. I'm going to keep a screwdriver in the boot so I can tweak the timing a bit more if required. Will look to fine tune in a fortnight as you suggested. Since cleaning the carb it starts a lot better. Cheers Kelton

[Othen]

Originally Posted by wisty

Thanks Alan. I turned up the idle ain your pic and it sounds so much better! I set it at 1100 in p. When I moved it to d it dropped to about 700 revs (stationary). I picked up some Wynn's today and I am shortly off to top up the tank then put it in. I'm going to keep a screwdriver in the boot so I can tweak the timing a bit more if required. Will look to fine tune in a fortnight as you suggested. Since cleaning the carb it starts a lot better. Cheers Kelton

Hi Kelton,
You will probably find the 700RPM in D becomes 900RPM once the gearbox has warmed up and the ATF thinned a bit. That would be a perfectly reasonable solution (but I'd still run some additive through and then adjust the CO level as per the green book).
Alan

[wisty]

Adjusted timing a bit more and it was fine at the lights, going in reverse etc. Set it 900 in drive (warm) and was driving fine. Just parked the RB up very easily.

Kelton

[Othen]

Hi Kelton,

Make sure the motor has sufficient coolant (50:50 ethylene glycol and water). This is a link to the electric fan conversion:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...&postcount=285

... and this is the control circuit:



... it should be pretty easy to diagnose any issues. Make sure the two electrical connectors are pushed into the thermo switch, it looks like this at the top of the radiator on the driver's side:



You could test it easily by jumping across the two connectors with a little piece of wire - the fan should start.

[wisty]

Thanks for the pics etc. I topped up with water. I tried holding the two wires on the thermoswitch together with the engine running and the fan didn't come on. I had tried a bit of wire first.

Kelton

[Othen]

Originally Posted by wisty

Thanks for the pics etc. I topped up with water. I tried holding the two wires on the thermoswitch together with the engine running and the fan didn't come on. I had tried a bit of wire first.

Kelton

Okay Kelton,

In that case you will need that multi-meter you ordered today to find the fault. It should be pretty straightforward. Afternote: check the inline fuse leading to the relay first. When you get the meter check:

a. Impedance of the fan (from memory I think there are two bullet connectors that emerge from the fan shroud. It should be fairly low Ohms. I think is was about 120w, so 10A and therefore just over an Ohm. Afternote - I found a photo, the yellow and red leads here:



b. Potential to earth at the thermoswitch (one side should be 12v - the other side should have a path to earth).

c. Potential to earth at the fan motor (use the supply side of the connections in (a) - one side should be 12v.

d. If all that checks out trace the voltage back to the relay. It is one of these two:



... the other one will be for the foglamps. I'm pretty sure I put some inline fuses from the busbar for both - so check those before you do any of the above.

Just be methodical.

How much water did the system take to refill?

[wisty]

Thanks again. Perhaps a pint of water.

I don't know what inline fuses are or where they would be?

[Othen]

Okay, inline fuses: you can just see one in the bottom left of this photo. The plastic box has a blade type fuse in it.



… just swap it for a new one, or check it out with your new meter.



Addendum: this is a quite likely source of the problem, the fan draws about 10A and the initial surge might be a bit higher.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

Okay, inline fuses: you can just see one in the bottom left of this photo. The plastic box has a blade type fuse in it.



… just swap it for a new one, or check it out with your new meter.



Addendum: this is a quite likely source of the problem, the fan draws about 10A and the initial surge might be a bit higher.

A better photo is att.