Is it ok to run a 25% diesel 75% oil mix in a 2.0D?

[SonyVaio]

You want to get in contact with Shark Performance, if you do a search on here you will find their details. Speak to Ben/Dera and see what these guys can do for you. They will 100% be able to do the software side of things but obviously you'd have to find someone your end to do the physical part.

[skyship007]

One point that a previous poster mentioned, was that oil additives are not needed and I agree with that in normal circumstances, BUT serious fuel dilution is not normal, finding that you have purchased an engine that has some sludge, terminal main bearing rattles and even oil leaks that are beyond economic repair, are not normal circumstances.

Most problems with older engines that require some extra anti wear additives, seal conditioners or detergents can be taken care of with the use of a high mileage (Extended performance to the Mobil fans) oil, BUT none of those are low ash oils (They have too much Zinc) and for a new engine there is no need to run an oil with seal conditioners or extra detergents. That's why I suggested Ceretec is one possible way of reducing the effects of oil thinning diesel fuel contamination. Moving up to a thicker 40 or even 50 is another good idea, although it's always good to check the real world results with an oil lab, as thickning the oil too much can increase the top end wear rates due to reduced oil flow and a slight increase in cylinder head temperatures that results from using a thicker oil.

Oil additives are like medicine, they can do good if your diagnosis is correct, BUT they all have potential side effects. The classic mistake is to use a flush additive in an engine with poor oil seals, or to use a drive around scourer like MMO with a sludged out engine. It can block the oil filter and damage the turbo bearings, so if you have a sludge monster the best thing is to try cleaning it the old way by removing the sump, then just use an idle only flush to clean things before the oil and filter are changed. A few short oil changes with a good cleaner like Mobil 0/40 or Shell Helix Ultra 5/40 will also help clean things up.

[skyship007]

This is a good document on diesel fuel contamination issues:
http://www.amsoil.com/news/2009_sept...on_diesels.pdf

PS. I don't use Amsoil engine oils, as they are no better than any other major brand full synthetics and their marketing methods are deceptive. The 50K km OCI's based on UOA (Used oil analysis) to cross check all is well. You can do 50K km with any of the major brand top tier synthetics if a diesel is in very good condition that just does long trips, but it is pushing the boundaries and very few users exceed the dealer max recommended interval.

[5cilinder]

Originally Posted by skyship007

One point that a previous poster mentioned, was that oil additives are not needed and I agree with that in normal circumstances, BUT serious fuel dilution is not normal, finding that you have purchased an engine that has some sludge, terminal main bearing rattles and even oil leaks that are beyond economic repair, are not normal circumstances.

Most problems with older engines that require some extra anti wear additives, seal conditioners or detergents can be taken care of with the use of a high mileage (Extended performance to the Mobil fans) oil, BUT none of those are low ash oils (They have too much Zinc) and for a new engine there is no need to run an oil with seal conditioners or extra detergents. That's why I suggested Ceretec is one possible way of reducing the effects of oil thinning diesel fuel contamination. Moving up to a thicker 40 or even 50 is another good idea, although it's always good to check the real world results with an oil lab, as thickning the oil too much can increase the top end wear rates due to reduced oil flow and a slight increase in cylinder head temperatures that results from using a thicker oil.

Oil additives are like medicine, they can do good if your diagnosis is correct, BUT they all have potential side effects. The classic mistake is to use a flush additive in an engine with poor oil seals, or to use a drive around scourer like MMO with a sludged out engine. It can block the oil filter and damage the turbo bearings, so if you have a sludge monster the best thing is to try cleaning it the old way by removing the sump, then just use an idle only flush to clean things before the oil and filter are changed. A few short oil changes with a good cleaner like Mobil 0/40 or Shell Helix Ultra 5/40 will also help clean things up.

Point is that higher ashed 5w40 are already exploding with antiwear (zddp)dopes much more than the low sap 0w30 oils
That combined with a halfed draininterval will be more than sufficient, and sludge will be non existent with lower diesel temperatures and dilluted with a SOLVENT named diesel
My engine is cleaner than clean and absolutely no wear

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by SonyVaio

You want to get in contact with Shark Performance, if you do a search on here you will find their details. Speak to Ben/Dera and see what these guys can do for you. They will 100% be able to do the software side of things but obviously you'd have to find someone your end to do the physical part.

Thanks, have seen this name pop up from time to time on the forum. They seem to be the real deal. Not sure if this can work internationally though. Will do some more reading. From what i can gather, the DPF is welded in place. I guess any exhaust shop would be able to remove it, so the physical part should be easy enough.

[chrisdc]

Skyship007, you refer to both older and newer engines. At 5 years and 100,000km, what category would mine fall in to? I'm asking because my Renault van has a 1500cc turbo diesel engine and it was still loosening up at 70,000km. I say this because fuel consumption was still improving. The 2.0l Volvo engine is a bigger stronger engine. I realise the way it's been driven will have had a role to play. All i can say is the car looks like it has been well cared for, judging by the internal and external condition. All services "on the dot by Volvo" Perhaps being automatic and not having towed would have helped as well. You and 5 cilinder both seem to know a great deal about oil. I value your opinions.

[chrisdc]

5cilinder, as a matter of interest, what engine do you have and how many km has it done? I'm guessing from your name that it must be one of the D5's?

[SonyVaio]

The best process is to remove the DPF, have the innards drilled out/removed (honeycomb type of thing) and then replace DPF back in the system. It will now just be a free flowing section.

If you speak to shark they will take details off you and then send out a softloader that you connect to the car and it will read your current ECU map and settings. You will email them the obtained map and they will then email you back the updated map that you will use the softloader again to apply to the car. This takes care of the software it just needs someone your end to do the physical bits with the DPF.

That's a brief overview but Ben @ Shark Performance would give you the full lowdown. I can't see there would be any issues because your half way round the world.

[5cilinder]

Originally Posted by chrisdc

5cilinder, as a matter of interest, what engine do you have and how many km has it done? I'm guessing from your name that it must be one of the D5's?

A remapped euro 4 one 250000 km
Again im no fan of dpf's but i find them in this engine "without" problems

Also in the uk the biodiesel % is over 7 and biodiesel doesent evaporate out of the sump
Here in holland its "only" 2% so i dont have any rising oillevels and i dont see people complain about them over here , in germany and the uk its over 7% biodiesel and in those countries you read a lot about rising oillevels also with other brands like bmw etc no coincidence concerning the high evaporation temperature of biodiesel

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

Point is that higher ashed 5w40 are already exploding with antiwear (zddp)dopes much more than the low sap 0w30 oils
That combined with a halfed draininterval will be more than sufficient, and sludge will be non existent with lower diesel temperatures and dilluted with a SOLVENT named diesel
My engine is cleaner than clean and absolutely no wear

I agree that if you are doing short OCI's and have diesel contaminating the oil it will be clean, BUT detailed wear rates are very difficult to determine without full particle count oil analysis (Costs about double a basic UOA). Basic oil analysis gives you some idea of wear rates, but it gives you a much better idea of contamination levels and the actual viscosity. That allows you to figure out if the oil needs changing more or less often.

Design spec correct oil viscosity for most modern turbo diesels is at the low end of the 30 grade range, which means that a good quality oil like Edge 0 or 5/30 that does not suffer high temp shearing to a lower viscosity is good for a newish engine. BUT if you have significant diesel fuel contamination the average viscosity will be way below design spec. When the oil film fails to protect the bearings or rings, the various anti wear or extreme pressure additives prevent too much metal to metal damage. It's vital for a thin oil to have real good additives and if Castrol knew that the oil had to be good with such high levels of fuel contamination as can occur, they would have increased the amount of several of the key additives. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, which is why I would never suggest trying a high quality oil additive (The only one that seems to work is Ceretec) without checking the actual results.
Part of the problem might well be Bio diesel use, as the flashpoint is 80 not 50c, so it does not evapourate from the oil.