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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Looking at 144s Good buy?Views : 5267 Replies : 46Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 26th, 2010, 20:56 | #31 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:19
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
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Picked it up in Aguada, Nice part of the country.Hope to visit more next Summer.
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Oct 26th, 2010, 20:58 | #32 |
arcturus
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Still would like to know the best way to get headlamps out. Don't want to damage anything.
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Oct 26th, 2010, 21:06 | #33 |
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Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2011 10:40
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Location: Maasland
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That's not rust. Rust is holes that you can see through. That's hardly worth fixing, unless you find a really precise welder who can cut it all out and replace it exactly as it was.
The headlamp holders are sprung, the spring is in the lower corner (on the 'outside'). You unhook the spring, the whole thing gets loose. Screw out the adjusters to max. length, to get more room to manoever, then wiggle wiggle them out of their slots in the front of the lamp holder. It takes some determination. Last edited by marcmarel; Oct 26th, 2010 at 21:09. |
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Oct 27th, 2010, 13:46 | #34 |
arcturus
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Although it does not show well on the photos there are holes in the footwells on the floor panel where it crosser over the cross member. Managed to get door cards off with difficulty. The doors inside and at bottoms have no rust.
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Oct 27th, 2010, 21:41 | #35 |
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In my opinion, you are absolutely right to get that floor repaired properly. The rest of the car is so good that it would be a shame to ignore or bodge this single problem area.
John |
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Oct 29th, 2010, 09:59 | #36 |
arcturus
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Hi again, what's the best way to remove the brightwork on the window rubber without damaging or marking it. Do we just prize it off with a flat blade or is there a better way? Don't want to spoil it and have to buy new one.
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Oct 29th, 2010, 10:19 | #37 | |
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Quote:
Personally, if the rubber seal is hard, I like to get a pro screen-fitter to remove the trim; it's an easy cheap job for them, with the right tools (and certainly cheaper/easier than trying to find a new trim afterwards if you damage it). If the rubber seal is still soft and pliable, working carefully with a flat plastic tool (e.g. a spreader for body-filler) and plenty of WD40 usually releases the trim undamaged. John |
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Oct 30th, 2010, 09:26 | #38 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:19
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Don't have any pro's near here. Fore warned is forearmed so, the small join cover clip, does that go over the trim or is there a ridge that fits into a chanel/groove under it and is that the same for the whole trim. Never having done one before I would just like to know what to expect. Don't like nasty surprises.
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Oct 30th, 2010, 10:45 | #39 |
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Last Online: Mar 3rd, 2011 10:40
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Location: Maasland
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Removing the window trim bits is quite difficult, at least to do it without damage. If it's not absolutely necessary, leave them in place.
I would rather pop out the entire windshield before removing the trim. Even sliding the locking center clip over will probably leave a scratch, it's very delicate stuff. |
Oct 30th, 2010, 13:47 | #40 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:19
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
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I was hopeing to cot away some of the rubber seal with a craft knife to make removal of glas easier but I think that I will take your advice and leave the trim on.
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