1988 760 turbo intercooler manual 100k

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by lixah

There seems to be 2 different rear shocks for my car

"Gas-A-Just Shock Absorber" and "Excel-G Shock Absorber"

which do i need?

Also with this site, where are they located? would i be able to pickup parts rather than wait for delivery?

-matt

Err, pass! Without seeing the other i couldn't be certain but if the current shock isn't adjustable then i would guess the G-Shock.
Not sure about collecting, you'd need to speak to them about that.

[lixah]

hmm i just noticed that exhaust is for the estate too, like some of the other parts places i'd phoned, they said they only stock the estate exhausts, and that it wouldn't fit my saloon. Is this true? seems hard to believe, since the cars look the same length, on the phone he said the fitting is slightly different.

[Laird Scooby]

I've always known them to use the same floorpan and no difference between estate and saloon exhausts - auto and manual exhausts there's a difference but not estate and saloon as far as i know.

[lixah]

so after much searching have found one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-760-...item4853be2e9c

£60! for the box only! but there is some good news, it appears to be the same one that the 2.0 940 turbo has, and guess what, i have a spare 1992 940 2.0 turbo lying around!

Being as its that much i might just go and see if i can grab that one before i fork out for £60


im not very good at DIY, do you think i'll have much trouble getting old one off etc? will it be rusted into dust

[Laird Scooby]

Use the 940 box then!

Had a look on GSF as well and their back boxes are £69!

Bottom line is whatever will work the best for your circumstances, budget and selling the car, if you still want to sell it that is!

[lixah]

Yea like I said earlier, having second thoughts about selling. I'm here in the pouring rain, trying to get the box off. Any tips? Already loosened the bolts, and removed tailpipe. But just can't get it loose. Think I may take the whole exhaust. In pretty good condition

[lixah]

finally got the b**** off, looks to be in decent condition, the middle box looks decent too, but don't know whether i want to spend another 2 hours getting it off!

[Laird Scooby]

Sorry, had to go out a while. Only tips i can give you are bucketfuls of WD40/similar, plenty of elbow grease and brute force & ignorance! Actually, try to lose the ignorance bit and just use the brute force!
Once you've got the clamps undone and drowned the joints in WD, try rotating the front and back halves of the joint in opposite directions. When you get even a small bit of rotary movement in the joint, drown it in WD again and have another go. If you have a blowlamp or simlar, you could try heating the outer pipe on the joint and tapping it with a mallet and while it's nice and warm, try rotating it again and then more WD. Obviously be careful of the fire risk using a blowlamp under the car!

I have on occasion used a Boa Constrictor - not the reptile but the strap wrench of the same name to help with getting rotary movement. Once you've got a fair bit of rotary movement, try wiggling it up and down and side to side and then more WD, turning, more up and down, side to side and pull - more a case of perseverance than anything, especially as you want to re-use it!

***** EDIT ***** You beat me to it! Well done! If the clamps were loose on the middle box, chances are you've already loosened it getting the back box off. Little tip to help removal (and fitting) next time is to smear the mating faces of the joint with Copaslip or similar copper based grease.

[lixah]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Sorry, had to go out a while. Only tips i can give you are bucketfuls of WD40/similar, plenty of elbow grease and brute force & ignorance! Actually, try to lose the ignorance bit and just use the brute force!
Once you've got the clamps undone and drowned the joints in WD, try rotating the front and back halves of the joint in opposite directions. When you get even a small bit of rotary movement in the joint, drown it in WD again and have another go. If you have a blowlamp or simlar, you could try heating the outer pipe on the joint and tapping it with a mallet and while it's nice and warm, try rotating it again and then more WD. Obviously be careful of the fire risk using a blowlamp under the car!

I have on occasion used a Boa Constrictor - not the reptile but the strap wrench of the same name to help with getting rotary movement. Once you've got a fair bit of rotary movement, try wiggling it up and down and side to side and then more WD, turning, more up and down, side to side and pull - more a case of perseverance than anything, especially as you want to re-use it!

***** EDIT ***** You beat me to it! Well done! If the clamps were loose on the middle box, chances are you've already loosened it getting the back box off. Little tip to help removal (and fitting) next time is to smear the mating faces of the joint with Copaslip or similar copper based grease.

ok, really appreciate all the help and info you've given me by the way!

The reason i was really struggling was the car would not start, and the back right of the car is in the garden, so i was having to lie in the dirt without the car jacked up etc trying to pull it free. pain in the ass job, and it had to pour with rain too! just my luck, i may get the middle section out tomorrow as well, probably best to get them both done at the same time, I dont like to half ass jobs. then i'll have to see about getting the shock absorber off, do you know how difficult that is going to be? much involved in it? and will the car be ok to sit without it? is the spring alone enough? these questions are probably pretty stupid but like i said im really no DIYer so dont know!

[Laird Scooby]

You're welcome! know the feeling about doing awkward jobs when the car won't start or move - once did a gearbox change during torrential rain in a flooded car park because the car wouldn't move. Guess what - the car was in the deepest bit of the flood!!!

First thing to do with the shocks, before you start the exhaust is remove the rubber bungs on the inside of the wheelarch to revela the top mounting bolts. Now douse them and the lower mounting bolts in WD and the exhaust section joints.

Now attack the exhaust for a while and when you fancy a rest, attack the shocks. Giving yourself a break that way will make the jobs seem easier and quicker but the shocks should be fairly easy to remove. Once you've got the shock bolts loose, jack up the suspension on the side you're working on, remove the bolts and lower the jack gently. Pull the shock out as soon as you can and jack it back up a bit. The shock acts as a limit of travel on the spring so try to find something to support the wheel that side while you do the other one and get the exhaust off then lower the car onto it's wheels again.
Once it is back on it's wheels it will be fine sitting on the springs but obviously if and when you move it, it will bounce like Zebedee on a pogo stick! The shock absorbers or to give them their proper name, dampers, do exactly what it says on the tin and damp the movement of the spring. The springs actually carry the weight of the car so no worries on that score.

Hope that helps somewhat!