240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Hi,

Couple of things- ditch the hot air source bracket off the downpipe and the associated tube, then remove the airbox and check the thermostatic flap hasn’t seized in the position for warm air- the concept of that warm air tube is to supply above freezing air in far below-zero conditions, which you aren’t going to find in the U.K. Remove the thermostatic actuator and flap, use an aerosol/spray paint lid to block that entry to the airbox and replace.

Those crimp connectors to add the extra gauges are how Volvo recommended the connections were made, I’ve got a copy of the original dealer fitting instructions I can email to you if you wish.

Cheers

Thank you for that.

That first bit was my plan for the constant air temperature device when I first bought the motor car - but having tested the valve I found it worked fine. I dithered a bit but eventually decided to reinstate rather than disable the device. Brookhouse Volvo tells me the parts were posted today, so I'll see them soon and should have an original system working properly next week. I know we don't need it in our temperate British climate, and it wouldn't make any difference if it wasn't there, but it is what I've decided to do.

I am amazed about the piggy back connectors being the official Volvo line back in the day. I really dislike them and showed why today... they were accounting for nearly 2 Ohms in a resistance budget that couldn't afford it.

Many thanks again, that is really helpful. The dealer fitting instructions would be really interesting - I'd appreciate a copy.

Alan

[Bob 1967]

Sad news today.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Bob 1967

Sad news today.

Indeed you're right Bob.

[Othen]

[loki_the_glt]

In any other country there would be martial music on the radio; in the U.K. it's the same as any other, normal, day.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Othen

Thanks Dave,

I think you are spot on there. I was just looking at the wiring diagram for the 2-door window lifts:


... it is for a LHD motor car so reverse everything. If you look at the two path diagrams in the middle at the bottom it almost rules out it being a switch problem, because neither switch works (and the deflection of the voltmeter has disappeared now I have fixed the path to earth or that instrument - so I think that was a red herring).

The two cases for opening the passenger door window have separate paths up to the motor. The return paths are via both switches, so unless both coincidentally failed simultaneously that isn't likely - and there is just one earthing point for both sides (in the driver's door it would seem), so that can't be the fault because the driver's side motor works.

I conclude it is unlikely to be a switching problem - which makes the passenger side motor the most likely suspect. Your advice is good, I keep an old motorcycle battery in the store with two multi-meter probes attached for exactly this type of investigation. I'll pull the passenger side door card off when I get a mo and test the motor.

:-)

This one proved to be something and nothing. I had an hour spare between collecting Dan from school and waking Bob, so I had a look at the switch:



... I'd already made up a logic schema from the wiring diagram and so could check out the operation of the driver's side switch from there with a meter. Everything checked out fine: constant 12v to the yellow wire, correct switching to the black and red wires and no spurious earths. The next thing was to check the operation of the motor, I used this old motorbike battery in a box that I keep just for these occasions:



... everything worked perfectly: I could raise and lower the window with the battery, so that left the passenger side switch as the only possible fault. Everything seems to check out okay, but the pins looked a bit scruffy, so I gave everything a clean with some fine emery paper and some IPA. After a bit of fiddling around it all worked. It must have just been a poor connection in the passenger side switch.

I'm hoping that using the switch a bit more will improve matters, but I may start looking around for a replacement to keep spare... just in case.


We are all saddened by the passing of HM The Queen.

[Bob 1967]

Damp in the air from recent downpours perhaps?
I got electric lifts and then deleted them, I might have a few switches knocking about.
I'll have a look later, bringing Sheba to The Memorial Park for a walk.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm hoping that using the switch a bit more will improve matters, but I may start looking around for a replacement to keep spare... just in case.


We are all saddened by the passing of HM The Queen.

Like i said Alan, switch cleaner and exercising the switch often sorts these things.

Now it is moving up and down by itself, don't forget the silicone lube on the rubbers which, besides making the window operation quieter and quicker , also reduces loading on the switches.

[Othen]

For Andrew: The Barge is turning into a very nice motor car:






Enjoy your hols.

We are all saddened by the passing of HM The Queen.

[Bob Meadows]

The motors on these windows are well built and serviceable:~
They can benefit from the above plus fresh grease- check the gasket & that the spherical bearing is free (water can enter at this point)
(Other mail sent in relating etc)

One other thing that can make these windows stick in the channel section, is the free travel up/down should be set correctly (covered in the manual) a couple of lower bolts on the window actuator mechanism should be set slightly loose as you operate the window through its full motion: Once this is done and without the glass catching then the bolt can be tightened up.
Hope it helps.
Bob.