AW 55-50 Transmission Glad to help!

[tonyalive]

as genuine as the mot history says, seems legit but it could have been clocked between mots, either way everything else on the car is sweet as a nut just this blasted gearbox issue, think i'll go for a fluid change cheers for the advice and yeah i think the neutral stop is most likely still programmed in,
no towbar

[savabill]

Make sure whoever does the ATF change, uses the correct fluid, JWS3309 Spec. If that improves the changes, have the stop/ neutral programmed out. It'll make the box last longer.

[Nick44]

Have the transmission fluid counter reset after the fluid change too.

[tonyalive]

So had a fluid counter reset and transmission flush and new fluid all volvo spec
Still same issues
Was better at first but it's now gone back to the same when it's warm it gets really bad
Shame, thats £200+ down the drain
Think its a refurb next or drive it into a wall
Can anyone recommend a cheap gearbox mechanic in the cheshire / south Manchester area ?
And what price am i looking at for a dropout, refurb and refit ?

S602.5t aw55-50sn 2002

[VivaLaVolvo]

Originally Posted by tonyalive

So had a fluid counter reset and transmission flush and new fluid all volvo spec
Still same issues
Was better at first but it's now gone back to the same when it's warm it gets really bad
Shame, thats £200+ down the drain
Think its a refurb next or drive it into a wall
Can anyone recommend a cheap gearbox mechanic in the cheshire / south Manchester area ?
And what price am i looking at for a dropout, refurb and refit ?

S602.5t aw55-50sn 2002

Give Deeside Motor Centre a call and see if they can make any recommendations.

I'd say it's worth travelling for the right recommendation though. Didn't someone on here recommend a specialist in the Midlands?

I wasn't having any issues with my gearbox as such. It just wasn't as smooth as it used to be and the change from 2nd to 3rd was quite hard. Had fluid changed and it improved but still changed hard from 2nd to 3rd. TCM software was updated yesterday and 2nd to 3rd is so much smoother. No idea how that works!

[c_lee]

Originally Posted by tonyalive

So had a fluid counter reset and transmission flush and new fluid all volvo spec
Still same issues
Was better at first but it's now gone back to the same when it's warm it gets really bad
Shame, thats £200+ down the drain
Think its a refurb next or drive it into a wall
Can anyone recommend a cheap gearbox mechanic in the cheshire / south Manchester area ?
And what price am i looking at for a dropout, refurb and refit ?

S602.5t aw55-50sn 2002

An auto gearbox ' specialist ' not far from me wanted £800 just for a removal and re fit - the refurb would be several hundred pounds on top of that, can't remember the exact amount now.

This was about 2 1/2 yrs ago.

When I visited in the car the mechanic at that same ' specialist ' inspected and told me that my 1999 P1 V70 was definitely a 5 speed auto and not 4 speed despite my surety of 4 speed.

He said I was wrong and he'd done many before - ' they're all 5 speed '.

Mine is a 4 speed as are many early V70's.

The total cost would have been more than I paid for the car in 2011/12 so I researched it and eventually completed a repair myself.
It would have been scrap otherwise with ~ 187K on it.

His certainty in his error didn't fill me with confidence either.

Be careful which ' specialist ' you chose.

It's good to do some deep research yourself first so that you can feign ignorance and quiz, and hopefully, avoid being bu11sh1tted.

Colin

[Simon Jones]

Some people might consider a 4 speed gearbox with top gear lockup (1:1 drive) as being 5 speed. On a P2 its very easy to check the actual number by moving the selector to manual mode and you'll see the number of the currently selected gear on the instrument panel.

[kekec01]

Hi all. I have ph1 1999 V70 2.4 170hp my2000 with AW55-50SN AT 5 speed gearbox and 245kkm. I have it for 15 months, bought it with 225kkm and it is my second car with AT. As I know/presume the gearbox fluid was never changed. I had the stop/neutral function, I felt a bump when going in a lower speed on a hill so a Volvo specialist from another Volvo forum in my country did the complete flush with Gibbons method, I presume that because he said he spend about 10 litres of fluid and he said that the fluid in the gearbox was mugg-ish. However, this did not solve my problems. Then I went a few months later to another shop for gearbox adaptation, but I did not see any improvements. Then some months later after web researching I found out about stop/neutral function and went to a Volvo shop for TCM upgrade. After the upgrade the stop/neutral function was gone, and I think the mentioned kicking as well and the drive was smoother. But as time is passing I have some new problems. When driving in heavy traffic, stop at red light and put from D in N for a minute, the engaing back in D is hursh and operate after a few seconds, no bumping, no kicking, just hursh. And not always but often, I also notice when speed up normaly the upspeed is just fine/normal, the downspeed as well, but when I accelerate slowish then there is a little delay from 2-3 and maybe from 3-4 I am not sure, there is not sliping from gear or anything, I just have feeling that the gearbox hesitate for a moment to change in upper speed. Meanwhile I bought myself Vida and Dice, So, after reding this thread and some others I was thinking about get the adaptation done by myself. Then if that don´t help, I will repeat Gibbons flush, put the oil filter and adapt again. If that don´t help I will by new solenoids, put it in and adapt again. I don´t think there is something major issue with my gearbox, just need some maintenance and love :-) What do you think, am I going in right dirrection?? Thanks.
I am from Croatia so please excuse my english. I spoke to one shop reletively near me which I think know the job and they told me that the cause is the valve body but it also can be oil pump or torque converter but they can test it all and see what is the main problem. I forgot to mention that I dont have faults in Vida.

[Georgeandkira]

The "Stop-Neutral" function caused wear in your transmission. There's no doubt about it.
The heavier it was driven, the more damage was done.
The lighter the car was driven, less damage was done.

Dealers began removing the Stop Neutral function very early on. It was a stupid idea Ford came up with. The AW 55-50 series is used without problem in many cars.

245,000 km driven without TCM revision likely means the car wasn't ever serviced at a dealer. Do your 225kkm purchase come with any records?

Do you do any work yourself? If so, do a drain and fill. If the 4 litres of fluid comes out nice and clean and red you can skip doing another Gibbons.
I do doubt the fluid will come out clean because 225-245kkm is a long time and dirt accumulates in the torque converter.

If it's dirty, do another Gibbons. Get a bottle of LubeGard (red bottle).
You use 1 oz. per quart of system fluid ONCE YOU GET THE FLUID CLEAN.
Professionals use this stuff. It lubes the valve body perfectly.
I swear it smoothed my transmission.
I had the same symptoms of low speed choppiness. It was as if the transmission couldn't make up its mind.
I DO NOT believe in "mechanics in a can" but this stuff is different. It's just a specific lubricant.
LubeGard makes fluids with which transmission builders tailor rebuilds. They know what they're doing.

LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-6090...s=lubegard+red

I sold that car with 198,600 miles (318kkm) and the buyer felt nothing wrong.
Obviously my valve body wasn't chewed up. Maybe yours is OK too.
This is why I recommend getting the fluid clean and then lubing it with LubeGard.

Then you can address the valve body-or pump-or TC if necessary. Kira

[kekec01]

I am 5th owner of the car. I was told that the first owner was Australian ambassador in my country so I presume that car was serviced at the dealer from the benining but I don´t know for how long. However I have no records of AT maintenaning. I don´t have much time for being around the car but I am DIY guy, I do everything I can by myself, I got Vida/Dice as well. When I am doing Gibbons how much fluid I can drain from the AT system before refill without damage?? And when to put Lubeguard?? I suppose when the clean fluid start to came out then calculate how many Lubeguard is needeed, and drain out that amount and refill with Lubeguard?? I also have engine space problem because I have LPG and pipes and hoses are just above the AT I can´t even see AT dipstick. First of all I will check fluid level and colour and do the adaptation, then I will see the result and proceed with Gibbons if necessary or You think otherwise??