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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Coolant S60 2001Views : 2665 Replies : 34Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 3rd, 2015, 10:58 | #21 | |
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Stop being a naughty boy ches and twisting what I said , Ref the power steering I merely advised the OP to double check that his fluid was indeed synthetic as volvo and indeed all manufactures have used both and if he used the incorrect fluid it could well damage the system ..a sensible idea I thought , I never said one shouldn't use comma fluid What sent you over the edge was the fact you saw I was not taking what the all knowing ches has stated as gospel ...what nerve I have As for the gearbox oil volvo claim it never need replacing ..fact .. Yes ref you previous post I'm sure you would like to me banned ches , one less person on the forum who possibly might know more than you on some subjects and be prepared to stand his corner and debate the point ..control freaks hate that... and strange things go on in my head ? mmmmm |
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Sep 3rd, 2015, 11:08 | #22 | |
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So it must be right because he has forty years experience ???? I assume your talking about clan , yes a very knowledgable and helpful guy but that does not mean he can never be wrong and on the subject of manual gearbox oil having a infinite life my experience in engineering tells me otherwise oils lubricating do not and cannot last for ever especially when subject to the loads and pressures present a manual gearbox ... especially a all syncromesh box Clan also claims volvo anti freeze lasts for ever and never needs changing again my knowledge of how chemical inhibitors function tells me otherwise as does the findings of the good ole voltage test ... Last edited by chindit; Sep 3rd, 2015 at 11:14. |
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Sep 3rd, 2015, 11:19 | #23 | |
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Your experience has led you to your views and mine has led me to mine. Just state your opinion, others will state theirs and let people decide which way they want to go and if you really want a debate on parts, fluids, quality, genuine v aftermarket just start your own thread.
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2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
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Sep 3rd, 2015, 13:10 | #24 | |
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By ruining every thread what you actually mean is I'm at times disagreeing with the font of all knowledge ........namely you. If advising someone to double check and not assume everything posted on a Internet forum is infallible before servicing a safety critical system is ruining a thread then yes guilty as charged m,lud..... However I was trained from being seventeen never to assume anything as it often leads to smoking holes in the ground and dead people , Sorry if my thoroughness and attention to detail irks you but there is , I was trained old school RAF ...get over it . Last edited by chindit; Sep 3rd, 2015 at 13:17. |
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Sep 3rd, 2015, 19:00 | #25 |
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Ooops...I not fully understood some comments here, but there are 3 positive response on my question:
1. VOLVO OEM coolant worth to buy: long lifetime, good quality up to 9-10 years 2. Measuring the conductivity and pH of the fluid is an easy control 3. Any good brand ethylene glycol coolant will work fine Thx for all!
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2001 VOLVO S60 2.0t A/T L5 1998 SAAB 9-5 2.0t M/T L4 retired 1971 VW 1302 L 1.3 BOXER4 retired Last edited by zoliS60; Sep 3rd, 2015 at 19:25. |
Sep 4th, 2015, 12:38 | #26 |
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Hello, I delved into this question on the Bobistheoilguy board and learned that G-05, yellow colored coolant used a lot by Ford here and by many car makers in Europe, is a good substitute.
It actually had the tacky nickname "Mercedes-Benz gold". G-05 has the COMPLETELY UNOFFICIAL title of "ALMOST A UNIVERSAL COOLANT". I used it when I serviced my mother's Saab a while back. That car had blue coolant in it;G-46 I believe is the Glysatin number of the blue stuff. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on our "G" number. Now (older and wiser) I'm squarely in the "original coolant" camp because 1) Any original stuff isn't difficult to find where I am. Also, I don't run a garage so I don't need to simplify any parts orders. 2) I don't use my brain if I don't have too (Ha-Ha). 3) Sticking with an original brew frequently eliminates the need to flush to clear to avoid conflicting coolants. Obviously a dirty, neglected system needs to be cleansed. Do remember the battle cry now-a-days is never to mix coolants. Some might mix OK. Many combinations will result in precipitation of clogging gunk....not good. Kira Last edited by Georgeandkira; Sep 4th, 2015 at 12:43. Reason: removal of political rhetoric |
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Sep 4th, 2015, 15:45 | #27 |
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my exp is the absolute type isnt much concern.
What is - Dont mix types as the can coagulate and clog up. If you adopt "new" type, pull hoses and thermostat and power flush all of the old coolant type. Ive used pink OATs stuff on aluminun blocks ok. When they had blue or green vanilla coolant. Some use waterless coolant from evans as it generates no pressure when hot - so you dont leak from anywhere. Good for dodgy waterpumps and small head gasket leaks Last edited by D5meister; Sep 4th, 2015 at 16:12. |
Sep 4th, 2015, 17:47 | #28 |
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Looks for a good alternative and reasonable priced:
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2001 VOLVO S60 2.0t A/T L5 1998 SAAB 9-5 2.0t M/T L4 retired 1971 VW 1302 L 1.3 BOXER4 retired |
Sep 4th, 2015, 18:21 | #29 |
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... and my last question in this topic: do you change the thermostat together with the coolant?
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2001 VOLVO S60 2.0t A/T L5 1998 SAAB 9-5 2.0t M/T L4 retired 1971 VW 1302 L 1.3 BOXER4 retired |
Sep 4th, 2015, 19:35 | #30 | |
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Quote:
You can wait for it to stop working which is easy to spot or play safe and do it now. I left mine alone.
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