Stumped on this one

[JP 1800]

Go onto ebay and get a Snap On or Matco timing light. I know they are more expensive but I have mine for years and it gets regular use in my workshop. As with most tools quality always wins.

[simonvolvo]

Originally Posted by grahamwatson

Will have to invest in a new strobe this weekend. Anybody got any recommendations?

When my strobe stopped working I did some nosing around inside and discovered that one of the high voltage capacitors had failed. In the pic the burgundy coloured component on the left, right next to the flash tube (.033 µF 650 volt). Replacing it restored the strobe to perfect working condition.

A long shot, I know, but it’s simple enough to try. I think that part of the circuitry that produces the flashes is pretty standard for most strobe lights.

[Ron Kwas]

Simon; Good work on repair! You and I clearly know what we are looking at in there, and are comfortable working with circuitry, but this is not the case for everyone. Many times when automotive electronics fail (including test equipment) it is for simple mechanical reasons like fractured solder joints fracture or broken wires, so this is one of the first, and simplest things to check for. From your picture, it does look quite simple in there...how did you test and decide that capacitor had failed (and in what mode)?
I have never had the need (or curiosity) to take an ign strobe apart, because I have never had one fail...actually I have never felt the need to even own one!...I've checked results of my static timing, and it is within a degree, so I feel I have a method which gives good results without a strobe.
I do agree that in the case of troubleshooting a possibly inconsistent timing point, a strobe would be the test instrument of choice.

VC; "disconnect the coil wire from the ign switch and just run a wire straight from the battery. " That's called 'Hotwiring"...this is not possible on an armored cable equipped Volvo, and you should understand why.

What are "R spark-plugs", and what makes them so special?...apparently not their reliability...

Cheers

[simonvolvo]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

...how did you test and decide that capacitor had failed (and in what mode)?

That was 3 years ago and I am getting old. The details have gotten lost in the mists of time. I keep notes and take pictures, but my notes simply say I replaced the capacitor because it was defective. I must have fiddled around with a voltmeter in there.

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

I have never had the need (or curiosity) to take an ign strobe apart, because I have never had one fail...actually I have never felt the need to even own one!...I've checked results of my static timing, and it is within a degree, so I feel I have a method which gives good results without a strobe.
I do agree that in the case of troubleshooting a possibly inconsistent timing point, a strobe would be the test instrument of choice.

I find a strobe light quite useful. It enables you to fine-tune the timing and can immediately tell you that the centrifugal advance is working.

[Ron Kwas]

Simon;

I check Centrifugal Advance spring and return action to be free and smooth whenever Distributor Cap is removed, and that's enough in the absence of symptoms or problems, but I agree if CA action is anything less than smooth, or fails to return, or misfires occur, an Ignition Strobe would be the way to functionally check it.

For those following along;

A quick check on Centrifugal Advance is something that can, and should be performed whenever Dist Cap is off (as well as adding a drop or two of oil to felt "reservoir" at top of Lobeshaft under Rotor...remember, the Distributor is strictly a mechanical system, no computer in sight(!), and mechanical systems need to be lubed. See here for all the other places on Distributor which should be lubed: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...or_Lubrication ).
By simply turning Rotor in the Counter(Anti)-Clockwise direction, a smooth, increasing spring counter-force should be felt, and rotor should return smoothly when it is released. If there is any non-smoothness, or high resistance to turning, or non-returning to starting angle is noted, CA has an issue which needs to be resolved.
Proper CA action is quite important to a good running engine! Ignition Timing which doesn't advance smoothly can cause engine surging like a bucking bronco, and timing locked at one place, and which does not advance at all with RPMs, results in an engine which feels like it's being held back (because it is!) with all the performance of a road-slug. Lube your CA!

Cheers

[Volvo Canadian]

"R" plugs are supposedly for cars with electronic ignition, to reduce EMI. I believe they have some kind of resistance in them, which seems to defeat the purpose of a SPARK plug, but who am I to argue. I think they are common and work well, so am mystified as to why mine failed. I want to check this again now that the car is working, but it is not high on my List.

At the time I was running the 123 Tune. While trouble-shooting I asked the dealer and he said they are not necessary, but shouldn't do any harm. Who-knows, maybe I cranked them in there too hard, or they just need a good clean, but they were replaced when I replaced the dizzy cap and rotor.

[noblebowes]

My s60 R, surging. changed everything that could be changed, problem never went away, just seemed to be in a different spot every day. ie low rpm. cruise rpm. radio cutting in and out. (volvo dealer says need new radio) I never had any codes to help chase the problem. when changing different parts some of the wiring was moved. Modifications to the car resulted in some additional wires added. finally looks like problem is/was the result of new battery installed, but cable ends were not replaced, straight post vs tapered cable end. cleaned and sanded cable ends and problem seems to have gone, but will install proper brass cable ends. Months of swapping parts and trying other things finally came down to 20 bucks worth of proper connectors. And many $ spent trouble shooting.