Aircon Clutch Adjustment 850 T5 1995 HOW? HELP :) - Page 3

Steve the Light · Jul 14th, 2007, 20:10

With thanks to everyone on this forum I have just done this job to my 2000 V70 classic. The instructions in this thread are very good. I tried to upload pics but I keep getting page errors so I attached a page to my work website from the link below. I hope this is OK with moderators.

The total job- including making the puller- took me almost 5 hours. I'm not a mechanic and I don't have "proper" tools or a workshop.
It's not as daunting as I imagined. Space is very tight and there is only just enough room to tilt the pump enough to get at the face. I had to remove the bolt holding the A/C reservoir to get enough room. Removing the 4 main securing bolts seemed to take forever as you arms get tired when lying on your back. The main wiring loom is encased in a plastic shroud. I undid the bolt securing it to the front cross member to gain a few more millimetres. I made a few mistakes which cost me time:

I removed the puller once the plate "cracked". The puller has to pull the plate back about 1/2" before it can be removed.
I kept the head on the 6mm centre bolt. This meant that the puller had to be removed, and the bolt undone before the plate could be fully withdrawn.
I mistakenly assumed getting 5mm stud was easy to get hold of on a Saturday morning. I eventually found blister packs of 40mm M5 screws and nuts at MotorWorld
I tried to use the puller with the heads left on the M5s. After 30 mins struggle I decided to cut them off and found it much easier.
I should have bought a long ring spanner for the belt tensioner. I managed with a standard open spanner but lost the skin from my knuckles.

When everything was back together I put a temperature probe in the air vent and took readings with A/C off and on. I was getting a drop of about 9 degrees with it on at idle revs and another 2 degrees drop at 2000 rpm.
There's 12 picks in about 1 meg at:

http://www.lomaxelectrical.co.uk/Vol..._pump_shim.htm

Chris_Rogers · Jul 15th, 2007, 15:31

Nice write up, did you replace the aux belt? Looks like it's well worn.

Steve the Light · Jul 15th, 2007, 23:10

It's in for a 110K service this week. They would not do the clutch repair, only replace the whole compressor unit (£££) so I thought I would do that bit myself. Timing belt and Aux belt due for change at this service. Driving to Spain this summer for the first time in this car. Last year my LR Discovery engine caught fire in France so I'm not taking any chances.

theonlyone · Aug 6th, 2007, 22:17

Thanks to Chris Rogers, Graham B and Steve the Light for the instructions on the compressor shim job. I am not a mechanic, but I have done minor work on the car before and the excellent instructions (and Steve's pictures in particular) encouraged me to try this job. I completed it sucessfully and mostly alone, but I did find it very fiddly and it took me rather longer than the rest of you.

Here's what I can add (Mine's a V70 MY2000 Classic):

I Jacked up the right side of the car and used an axle stand front right to improve access to the compressor. I don't think I could have done it from ground level.

The auxilliary drive belt procedure for the 2000 is different (&easier) than the 850 and earlier up to '98 V70. Good pictures and procedure shown at
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sbelt70.php

Found removing the compressor fairly easy with no major fouling of the bolts. Did remove the centre screw from the cable ducting (helped 1-2mm) and undid the reservoir mount (good for 3-4mm). Overall, found that there was poorer access to the compressor face than I expected.

I also found that a puller made from 3mm mild steel bends. I wasted a lot of time finding and making a 6mm version (got a local fixer to make one up). Don't even think of starting this job until you have a 6mm puller ready to go.

Took Steve 's advice to remove the heads from the M5s (I used 40mm ones). After the 'crack' I kept pulling until 1/4inch separation (didn't make room to get 1/2inch). I encouraged it to separate with a long screwdriver.

Before you start, be very clear about what the clutch gap is and what size shim you're going to remove. I started at 0.8mm and found 2 shims (0.5mm and 0.3mm). I really wanted to remove the 0.5mm, but didn't want to go below a 0.4mm gap.

Finally, I found that the A/C Off and Recirc light flashed orange on start. I'm puzzled, because I cleaned out the cabin temp sensor a month ago (blast of canned air through the grill). I also had the system topped off (2hr procedure) just before that. Any ideas?

Regards,

Phil 850 T5 · Aug 10th, 2007, 18:02

I have a 1997 850 T5. The aircon worked OK when I got the car, but over the past year had a tendency to go warm periodically. By June it happened after ten minutes of running, and then not rectify until the car had been parked for half an hour. I assumed, from reading this forum, that this was a clutch fault - particularly as the unit could be heard clicking in and out every few seconds. I called in a mobile company Aircon Direct (SE London/N.Kent) and to my amazement they were able to quote a roadside repair of the clutch (removing a shim) for £42 + vat. The work was carried out professionally and quickly (compressor kept in situ, job took 1 hour) - very friendly, knowledgeable small family business in my opinion. Had a natty sniffing device to detect leaks but found none.
Since then the system seems fine. Much cheaper fix than I anticpated by about £150!

PS If you go to KwikFit for a regas, tell the technician that 850 AC only has one valve (behind the OS headlight) - unlike many other vehicles!

terry_cunnane · Jul 26th, 2010, 11:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_Rogers

Glad you got it done OK.

It wasn't 'that bad' was it?

Just think of the money you saved!

Best, Chris

I've just completed this fix and feel quite proud of myself. Couldn't have attempted it of course without your fix. Meant I could get all the bits together before starting the job.

There's something I'm not sure about so before I put the aux belt back on and lower the car I thought I'd ask first.
I had only one shim in the clutch. Now I've removed it I find the gap is smaller than 0.4mm. It's slightly larger than 0.2mm. Will that be ok or should I start the job again?
The outer pulley still spins freely but I haven't run the car yet.

Thanks

Terry

Jim Haseltine · Jul 26th, 2010, 13:35

Shouldn't be a problem. I did this job about a month back on my 70 - had two shims, one very thick and one very thin, ended up using just the thin one and now have a gap of less than 0.4mm and a clutch that works fine.

Chris_Rogers · Jul 26th, 2010, 18:12

Tend to agree, probably have worn to 0.4mm in a few weeks anyway.

terry_cunnane · Jul 27th, 2010, 12:27

Thanks for your replies. I'll start using the car again.

Terry

Jul 14th, 2007, 20:10	#21
Steve the Light Junior Member Last Online: May 10th, 2021 17:11 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Wirral	Aircon Clutch Adjustment PICS With thanks to everyone on this forum I have just done this job to my 2000 V70 classic. The instructions in this thread are very good. I tried to upload pics but I keep getting page errors so I attached a page to my work website from the link below. I hope this is OK with moderators. The total job- including making the puller- took me almost 5 hours. I'm not a mechanic and I don't have "proper" tools or a workshop. It's not as daunting as I imagined. Space is very tight and there is only just enough room to tilt the pump enough to get at the face. I had to remove the bolt holding the A/C reservoir to get enough room. Removing the 4 main securing bolts seemed to take forever as you arms get tired when lying on your back. The main wiring loom is encased in a plastic shroud. I undid the bolt securing it to the front cross member to gain a few more millimetres. I made a few mistakes which cost me time: I removed the puller once the plate "cracked". The puller has to pull the plate back about 1/2" before it can be removed. I kept the head on the 6mm centre bolt. This meant that the puller had to be removed, and the bolt undone before the plate could be fully withdrawn. I mistakenly assumed getting 5mm stud was easy to get hold of on a Saturday morning. I eventually found blister packs of 40mm M5 screws and nuts at MotorWorld I tried to use the puller with the heads left on the M5s. After 30 mins struggle I decided to cut them off and found it much easier. I should have bought a long ring spanner for the belt tensioner. I managed with a standard open spanner but lost the skin from my knuckles. When everything was back together I put a temperature probe in the air vent and took readings with A/C off and on. I was getting a drop of about 9 degrees with it on at idle revs and another 2 degrees drop at 2000 rpm. There's 12 picks in about 1 meg at: http://www.lomaxelectrical.co.uk/Vol..._pump_shim.htm __________________ Cheers Steve ___________________ 2000 V70 Classic 2006 C70 T5 SE LUX

Jul 15th, 2007, 23:10	#23
Steve the Light Junior Member Last Online: May 10th, 2021 17:11 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Wirral	It's in for a 110K service this week. They would not do the clutch repair, only replace the whole compressor unit (£££) so I thought I would do that bit myself. Timing belt and Aux belt due for change at this service. Driving to Spain this summer for the first time in this car. Last year my LR Discovery engine caught fire in France so I'm not taking any chances. __________________ Cheers Steve ___________________ 2000 V70 Classic 2006 C70 T5 SE LUX

Aug 10th, 2007, 18:02	#25
Phil 850 T5 New Member Last Online: Aug 10th, 2007 20:35 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: London SE9	Aircon Clutch Issues I have a 1997 850 T5. The aircon worked OK when I got the car, but over the past year had a tendency to go warm periodically. By June it happened after ten minutes of running, and then not rectify until the car had been parked for half an hour. I assumed, from reading this forum, that this was a clutch fault - particularly as the unit could be heard clicking in and out every few seconds. I called in a mobile company Aircon Direct (SE London/N.Kent) and to my amazement they were able to quote a roadside repair of the clutch (removing a shim) for £42 + vat. The work was carried out professionally and quickly (compressor kept in situ, job took 1 hour) - very friendly, knowledgeable small family business in my opinion. Had a natty sniffing device to detect leaks but found none. Since then the system seems fine. Much cheaper fix than I anticpated by about £150! PS If you go to KwikFit for a regas, tell the technician that 850 AC only has one valve (behind the OS headlight) - unlike many other vehicles!

Jul 27th, 2010, 12:27	#29
terry_cunnane The accompanist Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2024 17:07 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Great Yarmouth	I'll give it a go! Thanks for your replies. I'll start using the car again. Terry __________________ 1999 V70SE T5 auto. front wheel drive

Jul 15th, 2007, 15:31	#22
Chris_Rogers VOC Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2017 16:55 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: South Kent Coast	Nice write up, did you replace the aux belt? Looks like it's well worn.

Aug 6th, 2007, 22:17	#24
theonlyone Member Last Online: May 29th, 2024 20:47 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Offworld	Thanks to Chris Rogers, Graham B and Steve the Light for the instructions on the compressor shim job. I am not a mechanic, but I have done minor work on the car before and the excellent instructions (and Steve's pictures in particular) encouraged me to try this job. I completed it sucessfully and mostly alone, but I did find it very fiddly and it took me rather longer than the rest of you. Here's what I can add (Mine's a V70 MY2000 Classic): I Jacked up the right side of the car and used an axle stand front right to improve access to the compressor. I don't think I could have done it from ground level. The auxilliary drive belt procedure for the 2000 is different (&easier) than the 850 and earlier up to '98 V70. Good pictures and procedure shown at http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sbelt70.php Found removing the compressor fairly easy with no major fouling of the bolts. Did remove the centre screw from the cable ducting (helped 1-2mm) and undid the reservoir mount (good for 3-4mm). Overall, found that there was poorer access to the compressor face than I expected. I also found that a puller made from 3mm mild steel bends. I wasted a lot of time finding and making a 6mm version (got a local fixer to make one up). Don't even think of starting this job until you have a 6mm puller ready to go. Took Steve 's advice to remove the heads from the M5s (I used 40mm ones). After the 'crack' I kept pulling until 1/4inch separation (didn't make room to get 1/2inch). I encouraged it to separate with a long screwdriver. Before you start, be very clear about what the clutch gap is and what size shim you're going to remove. I started at 0.8mm and found 2 shims (0.5mm and 0.3mm). I really wanted to remove the 0.5mm, but didn't want to go below a 0.4mm gap. Finally, I found that the A/C Off and Recirc light flashed orange on start. I'm puzzled, because I cleaned out the cabin temp sensor a month ago (blast of canned air through the grill). I also had the system topped off (2hr procedure) just before that. Any ideas? Regards,

Jul 26th, 2010, 13:35	#27
Jim Haseltine Member Last Online: Jan 29th, 2024 20:42 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rawcliffe, York	Shouldn't be a problem. I did this job about a month back on my 70 - had two shims, one very thick and one very thin, ended up using just the thin one and now have a gap of less than 0.4mm and a clutch that works fine.

Jul 26th, 2010, 18:12	#28
Chris_Rogers VOC Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2017 16:55 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: South Kent Coast	Tend to agree, probably have worn to 0.4mm in a few weeks anyway.

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