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What's the damage?

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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 11:04   #21
Clifford Pope
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If the axle housing is OK you just need a complete new shaft with hub from a donor car, complete with its own race. It's a dead easy job to swap over. The only bit likely to be difficult is getting the push-fit inner race out of the axle, if it has seized in. But you have already done that.
I swapped one for an over-zealous MOT tester once, who didn't understand bearing end-float.An hour later I was back for a retest.

If a replacement race just slides in and isn't lose, that's all there is to it.
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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 11:38   #22
morsing
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Hi Clifford, it was tough getting the outer race out of the axle tube. I had to use a pipe wrench and leverage to pull it out. Glad to hear it's easier to get in

I'll take the half shaft down to Volvo and have a new bearing and lock-ring fit. I assume all this is still available? Was quite surprised when I found out brake pad anti-squeal shims are no longer available

I've just checked the bearing in the other side which is fine. The brake pads and retaining pins are not! The friction material had fallen off the backing plate, how on earth did this car still manage to stop?! The retaining pins are seized and I have not been able to get them out, so don't know how I can change the pads...

On the over-heated side, without pads in mind, only one piston comes out when I push the brake pedal but it might just be due to lack of resistance on the moving one.

Un-fortunately I ended up pushing it so far the seal broke. What is the purpose of this seal? Is it just to keep dirt out? Do I need to fit another?

Thanks
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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 12:23   #23
stevo48
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I would advise fitting a new seal(s) as they prevent dust and grit from getting into the caliper housing which would cause your caliper to sieze or leak.
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Old Apr 15th, 2012, 13:09   #24
classicswede
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morsing View Post
I've just checked the bearing in the other side which is fine. The brake pads and retaining pins are not! The friction material had fallen off the backing plate, how on earth did this car still manage to stop?!
It's a 240!

In extream cases I have had to drill the pins out. Have you removed the R clips that hold the pins in?
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Old Apr 16th, 2012, 12:37   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morsing View Post
Hi Clifford, it was tough getting the outer race out of the axle tube. I had to use a pipe wrench and leverage to pull it out. Glad to hear it's easier to get in

I'll take the half shaft down to Volvo and have a new bearing and lock-ring fit. I assume all this is still available? Was quite surprised when I found out brake pad anti-squeal shims are no longer available

I've just checked the bearing in the other side which is fine. The brake pads and retaining pins are not! The friction material had fallen off the backing plate, how on earth did this car still manage to stop?! The retaining pins are seized and I have not been able to get them out, so don't know how I can change the pads...

On the over-heated side, without pads in mind, only one piston comes out when I push the brake pedal but it might just be due to lack of resistance on the moving one.

Un-fortunately I ended up pushing it so far the seal broke. What is the purpose of this seal? Is it just to keep dirt out? Do I need to fit another?

Thanks
sounds like mine was when i got it ,pads down to the metal and i had to use a punch to get the retainers out and one needed to be drilled.
luckily though the bolts were OK ,i took the opportunity to check the pistons and bought a oem set of piston seals and dust caps to refurbish them via ebay.
the end seal is just a dust seal the piston has another seal set in the caliper that retains the fluid and drives the piston etc
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Old Apr 16th, 2012, 18:25   #26
morsing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
It's a 240!

In extream cases I have had to drill the pins out. Have you removed the R clips that hold the pins in?
R-clips broke pulling the out, but yes.

I've dropped the half-shaft off at Volvo who said it will take 2-3 weeks to get a new bearing
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Old Apr 17th, 2012, 11:39   #27
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just found a picture of my cars pads ,this was the worst the rears did have a few mm of pad left! luckily the bearings were OK although i have replace 2 on one side since after failing in MOT's so perhaps the grease boiled away on that side?
the good thing about volvo's is that they use 2 part bearings ,my sons car bearing had to be taken to a nice man with a 10 ton press to get his to come out and then back to press the new one in
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Old Apr 17th, 2012, 12:32   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morsing View Post
R-clips broke pulling the out, but yes.

I've dropped the half-shaft off at Volvo who said it will take 2-3 weeks to get a new bearing
I think I've got a new Volvo bearing.
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Old Apr 19th, 2012, 01:34   #29
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I would definitely replace or rebuild the calipers. Pushing the piston all the way in likely means some old corroded piston surface was pushed thru the hydraulic seal which cant be good.
Here in the US whole calipers are $35 each, no idea about UK..

Last edited by JonC; Apr 19th, 2012 at 01:39.
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Old Apr 19th, 2012, 19:30   #30
morsing
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Quote:
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I would definitely replace or rebuild the calipers. Pushing the piston all the way in likely means some old corroded piston surface was pushed thru the hydraulic seal which cant be good.
Here in the US whole calipers are $35 each, no idea about UK..
So they're about 8 times more expensive over here...

I'll keep them as long they work...
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