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Wiring for radio

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Old May 24th, 2006, 17:49   #21
Velorum
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Sorry Glen Morangie - I have just reread your message re where it goes - I guess that answers my question!!!!

Ian
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Old May 25th, 2006, 00:11   #22
Glen Morangie
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Just to clarify - the CR 702 goes in the top slot but has the odd shaped - and I understand fairly sought after - Volvo dash adapter, thus extending the fascia into the 'wonky D' shape to fit above the vents.

I don't know if this is essential to mount the radio (I don't think so), or just for a finished look.

If it is a CR702 you get from ebay you'll probably find the on/off volume control seems to rotate freely. The trick is to gently squeeze the outer knob as you turn it, and it should work OK - keeping this to yourself is handy if you have passengers who like to turn the radio up/down when it suits them!

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Old May 25th, 2006, 05:40   #23
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He's getting it off me when I take it out of my 745. Is there room on the 240 series for the graphic equaliser that came with some models of 745 and the CR702 radio? I have one, complete with light up sliders, but don't want to take it out and ship it if there's no way of fitting it to a 240.
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Old May 25th, 2006, 08:31   #24
morsing
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The one I pulled from my 240 had the 5 band equalizer with lit sliders.
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Old May 25th, 2006, 18:25   #25
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Sounds like a Yes then. Right, that means he or I need to find a replacement dash hole thingy, whatever the right name for them is. Prepare for the vaguest post in "Items Wanted" that this forum ever did see.
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Old May 25th, 2006, 19:30   #26
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Crikey - this is not the straightforward operation that I had envisaged!

When the radio that Joe is letting me have arrives I will have two - the CR702 that needs a backing plate 'thing' and the one from ebay which is sort of built into the offset above grill plate 'thing' - I think its off a newer model as its looks the same as the one I had in my 1992 SE.

Considering the above I guess your quite right to predict a vague description in the items wanted section if I need the whateveritis mounting plate thing.

Anyway I will look at them both and weigh up the situation - the one I dont fit I will recycle via the forum!

Thanks for all the advice on this folks.

Ian
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Old May 25th, 2006, 20:30   #27
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Well if it all goes pear shaped here's a picture of what should have happened!!!

Good luck.
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File Type: jpg CR702.jpg (17.6 KB, 43 views)
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Old May 7th, 2007, 23:41   #28
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Default Don't tempt the theives.

I once had an empty ( Sinclair ZX 80 Computer ) box stolen from a 244GL, it was left on the back seat after removing the goods at a computer club, they broke the window glass to retrieve it. Replaced the glass myself from a scrapper.

Remember they don't know it's empty till they get their hands on it by which time you've suffered the expense of the repair.

I leave next to nothing on display now.

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Originally Posted by Ian Hutchinson View Post
I guess your right - not much will deter some that are that desperate to nick whatever they can.

About 15 years ago I parked my XR2 in the public car park at the top of the White Horse hill at Uffington. It was December and freezing cold - not a sole in sight. My wife and I went for a walk but it was so cold we returned after 20 minutes to find one of the rear windows broken and a woolworths carrier bag stolen. It contained some chees and salad items!
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 15:58   #29
80242brick
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just rewire the entire audio system its not as hard as you think
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 16:46   #30
volvological
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Default Pre to Power

Sorry to splice in.....

The pre-amp is contained in the head unit. I'm guessing that you'll probably find that any volvo 240 with rear speakers (in my torslanda, they're in the rear door panels by the way), i.e. a four speaker system, and volvo factory head unit will have this pre/power amp setup.

The power amp is the margarine tub connected to the head unit by the din cable. The din cable takes the 4 channels at signal level to the power amp, and whizz bang, the power amplifer dutifully amplifies the signals and sends the output to each speaker. Within the din lead, one of the connectors will also act as a remote switch from the head unit that will switch the power amp on and off. (probably six pins, four ‘channel’ pins,one remote power and one earth)

If you’ve got a fader control on the existing unit, I wouldn’t mind betting that the unit may still be linked to a power amp, but this may only be a two channel power amp.

In any case, you’ll find out!. If a din cable/connector is present, you’ll need to connect the speaker outputs from your new unit to the speaker wires which should be emanating from the power amp, just chop/extend and remove the unit

If you remove the head unit and they’re fairly thick looking separate (paired) cables, and no multi wire din-cable, you can connect straight to these, as a word of advice, usually if you use your multi meter on low ohms, a quick probe of these pairs will ‘crackle’ the connected speaker, making identification easier.

You’ll probably find more info on the forum about the fun of removing the head unit, quite often there’s a metal barb located to the rear of the unit which prevents it form being removed by scallywags, I think you can access it through, or by removing the glovebox, but then its been a while since I’ve done it!

Have Fun.
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