New Crossmember/Suspension Kit Information

[Colonel Froth]

With the upper control arms being so short I just wanted to reassure myself that with ride height set low, say -60mm from stock, the arms wouldn't be too far from horizontal and end up dramatically increasing camber during further displacement. But I just went back and saw that the Mustang lower control arms are shorter than the Volvo ones as well, which would mitigate that camber increase somewhat. And yeah, like you say there's no substitution for a stop-watch.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by Colonel Froth

With the upper control arms being so short I just wanted to reassure myself that with ride height set low, say -60mm from stock, the arms wouldn't be too far from horizontal and end up dramatically increasing camber during further displacement. But I just went back and saw that the Mustang lower control arms are shorter than the Volvo ones as well, which would mitigate that camber increase somewhat. And yeah, like you say there's no substitution for a stop-watch.

Dont forget 2 inches of the suspension drop is caused by the Drop spindles, which does not affect the control arm positions... But you are right, and the Camber issue is really minut, because we left enough upper control arm adjusment to compensate at almost any ride height and combination.

I know there is a difference in upper and lower control arm lengths, but the mounting position and the spindle shape, really dictate the Camber arch during suspension travel to. There is plenty of adjustment in this, at various ride heights to pretty well keep the Camber arch relative to the others and within tolerance.

[Colonel Froth]

Can the upper control arm mounting position be moved up, can it be shimmed a bit?

There wouldn't be a problem using the adjustable upper control arm to set static camber, I don't doubt that. It's the change in camber during travel I was concerned about. As you say it's the mounting points of the control arms (viewed from the front of the car) and actually the lengths of the arms relative to each other that define the arc travelled by the spindle. I was worried that with a stock length (longer than Mustang) lower arm combined with a shortened upper, the camber acceleration during travel would be large, especially if at my preferred (looow ) ride-height, the upper arm was already at say 30 degrees from horizontal, for example. The static camber could be set perfectly with the upper arm angled like that, but because of my imaginary 30 degree angle a bump would greatly increase camber. So to ask the question another way, with your Amazon at full drop can you measure the angle of the upper arm against horizontal if you get a chance?

When's it back from paint?

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Sure thing.. I will also note, about the question you asked about shimming the upper control arm Upward, yes you can.. The way the Control arm mounts and adjust, it does allow for a further upward mounting. I was considering offering a kit for just that if it was necessary, but it really isnt..

My upper control arm bolts are Verticle, and the control arm adjusts by slidine horizontal inboard and outboard. So you can shim it upward if you want with no issue.. I am telling you, and I will provide the details when the Manufactured piece comes back, that you can set your car as low as you could drive the care safely, and still get proper camber adjustment with out a Radical change in the Camber reaction during suspension travel..

At established ride height, the lower control arm is in a slightly upward angle (in Factory ride height or lowered ride height with drop spindle), and the Upper is right at Horizontal to upward angle to match the lower. We do not have two opposing cotrol arm arcing positions trying to pull in and push out during articulation. You also have to consider where the upper is mounted, because at certain mounting points a shorter upper length doesnt have that dramtic camber affect that alter springs in a factory set up would. If the upper is brought out in its mounting, so it almost mirrors the lower, they act like they are the same, even though the actual arm length is different.. So when the lower continues to move upward, it actually works with Upper movement to absorb alot of the camber change you would typically see with a cut spring or lowering spring vehicle. Once you have your ride height established, you can adjust your upper control arm to proper Camber, and both the upper and lower play well together during suspension articulation.

I hope I have that all typed out right.. ha ha I will definitely post the pictures and measurements you want..

[Volvo Canadian]

Hi Robert - If only it was a year-ago. I have just finished a complete restoration, but I am thrilled to see your offering. I read your thread a few weeks ago, but missed the fact that you are on this side of the pond, until I was reading your contribution to the question of lowering springs. Where are you at? I'll be moving down to the US soon, and knowing what I know about the suspension in these cars, I might just do a swap-over anyways. I already have so much money into that car....

I'm running a fuel-injected head with the ports blocked-off for now; some day maybe I'll get around to fuel-injection. Also, I have a friend who has a hydrogen generator he wants to install just for a lark. Plenty of room!

James

[DQ81]

I just came across your P1800 build the other week and have this too. Nice work!

I have a question for you, everybody really, what do we reckon the stock Amazon disc setup (with the two piston calipers) and booster is good for hp wise?

What are you rating your setup at (big brake)?

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by 122 Canuck

Hi Robert - If only it was a year-ago. I have just finished a complete restoration, but I am thrilled to see your offering. I read your thread a few weeks ago, but missed the fact that you are on this side of the pond, until I was reading your contribution to the question of lowering springs. Where are you at? I'll be moving down to the US soon, and knowing what I know about the suspension in these cars, I might just do a swap-over anyways. I already have so much money into that car....

I'm running a fuel-injected head with the ports blocked-off for now; some day maybe I'll get around to fuel-injection. Also, I have a friend who has a hydrogen generator he wants to install just for a lark. Plenty of room!

James

I am actually in Oklahoma... I will say that this kit can go in at any stage, so dont worry about there being work that would alter anything you have done already. Hydrogen Generator.. ha ha

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by DQ81

I just came across your P1800 build the other week and have this too. Nice work!

I have a question for you, everybody really, what do we reckon the stock Amazon disc setup (with the two piston calipers) and booster is good for hp wise?

What are you rating your setup at (big brake)?

Well, I am not sure what the horsepower rating would be for the factory brakes.. I think I would be more worried about the actual steering and suspension before the brakes.. If you watch some of these videos on Youtube that have the retro-fitted T5's, you will see the wrangling they have to do to keep it on the road. They are running about 400 horsepower, and I assume they stop..

As far as the big brake packages that we will offer, all I can say is this, I am not sure about an actual horsepower rating.. I dont think they any company offers a horspower rating, because there are other factorys like vehicle weight that come into play.. Lets just take the 13 inch brakes for an example, I know of some 1000 horsepower full size cars, that they are more than capable of handling. In the case of the 13 inch brakes on these Volvo's, they would really only be for serious track racing or just for aggressive looks.

Check out this video link below, and about the 2 minute mark, you will see where my suspension kit will really help. There cars can be a bear to wrestle around, and only adds work if you add more horsepower.. I also see in the video, they didnt trust the factory brakes at 500 horsepower, so they installed S80 Brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dB7V2Z2a8Qk

[DQ81]

Originally Posted by Iamtheonlyreal1

Well, I am not sure what the horsepower rating would be for the factory brakes.. I think I would be more worried about the actual steering and suspension before the brakes.. If you watch some of these videos on Youtube that have the retro-fitted T5's, you will see the wrangling they have to do to keep it on the road. They are running about 400 horsepower, and I assume they stop..

As far as the big brake packages that we will offer, all I can say is this, I am not sure about an actual horsepower rating.. I dont think they any company offers a horspower rating, because there are other factorys like vehicle weight that come into play.. Lets just take the 13 inch brakes for an example, I know of some 1000 horsepower full size cars, that they are more than capable of handling. In the case of the 13 inch brakes on these Volvo's, they would really only be for serious track racing or just for aggressive looks.

Check out this video link below, and about the 2 minute mark, you will see where my suspension kit will really help. There cars can be a bear to wrestle around, and only adds work if you add more horsepower.. I also see in the video, they didnt trust the factory brakes at 500 horsepower, so they installed S80 Brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dB7V2Z2a8Qk

Well obviously my question was in reference to and estimated hp rating in the volvo. Of stopping power is subject to many factors, not to forget tire quality, tread and simply type...

it's funny. Prior to clicking this link I already know the car your talking about, I never tire of that vid or the T5, or any of them! And the red coupe with the T5 your referencing... it's a small world.

Are you going to be offering any bagover options? I've already been looking into different steering rack options and if you do a search for "bi-turbo amazon" on youtube you'll find an SBC stuffed in between the stock suspension.

Obviously I want to build the car(s) as robustly as possible, but for cars that will probably never see a drag strip or track overkill isn't necessary. I'm very interested in the cost of your kit and the different levels you'll be offering...

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

They go into production in the next couple of weeks, and I will be releasing a complete options price list.. They come standard as 11 inch brake rotors, and the kit comes complete from rotor to rotor. The price will vary as you want other options like larger brakes, Powder coating, Power Rack, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, ect..