Scratch Removal Guide (For the Brave)

[Terminator]

Hi Mike,

Yes, I use the 3M green foam pad with the 3M green topped bottle of compound for cutting.

3M match the colour of their applicator pads to the colour of their compounds and bottle lids!

I use their polish, 3M blue and the blue applicater pad to apply the polish immediately after applying and wiping off the cutting compound, which gives a great shine.

If you are using a rotary polisher with different applicators, you can buy the cutting and polishing compounds separately.

Ian

[Derek UK]

Using washing up liquid is never a good idea on cars old or new as the salt in it can promote rust. Use a little car shampoo instead.

[bertuk]

anyone thinking of doing it but are a bit worried incase it goes wrong your welcome to practice your method out on my s40 if it works you can then do your own scratches ( and ill pat you on the back lol ) on a serious note its a very good write up and well documented

[Terminator]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Using washing up liquid is never a good idea on cars old or new as the salt in it can promote rust. Use a little car shampoo instead.

You should never wash your car with washing up liquid as it is too aggressive but a little (I mean just a drop of a mild one such as 'Fairy') with water to lubricate when wet and dry sanding or clay barring will not cause any harm as any residue will be removed during cutting and or polishing.

[Volvon]

I'd advise against using power tools, buffers etc for anyone trying scratch removal for the first time. Things can go horribly wrong horribly fast and then your in a bigger mess than when you first started.

I've found just using good old elbow grease gives just as good results. But, if your going to to use buffers and the like, go and get an old car door or something from the scrappy to practice on.

[andy_d]

Originally Posted by hyvää

I'd advise against using power tools, buffers etc for anyone trying scratch removal for the first time. Things can go horribly wrong horribly fast and then your in a bigger mess than when you first started.

I've found just using good old elbow grease gives just as good results. But, if your going to to use buffers and the like, go and get an old car door or something from the scrappy to practice on.

brilliant advice, far easier to "oh ,,,,,,," with power tools + paintwork than you'd think.

[Terminator]

If you are thinking of going the power tool route I recommend you start with one of these as they are much more forgiving than a normal Dual Action sander / polisher:

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalo...olisher_1.html

The secret is to not apply too much pressure and as Hyvaa suggests, practice first!

[andy_d]

you could have posted that link 3 days ago and saved my arms/shoulders ,,ive just finished applying by hand autoglym paint restorer and SRP and about to do the wax coat over the top .,,,when i get the feeling back in arms

[DWM]

Originally Posted by andy_d

you could have posted that link 3 days ago and saved my arms/shoulders ,,ive just finished applying by hand autoglym paint restorer and SRP and about to do the wax coat over the top .,,,when i get the feeling back in arms

Lol I've got the same problem after three days' solid garden clearance - my mother basically left her (already quite wild) garden to run riot for about 15 years and it really needs some napalm - it's as bad as that (but the neighbours...). I was worried this morning that I couldn't feel my right arm at all. A bit of digging and cutting seemed to wake it up. I reckon I'll be in decent shape for polishing away my flat looking panel on the car when I'm done. Some holiday this is...

On a more relevant note: I thought I had read somewhere that you did need power tools for this kind of stuff sometimes, since only that would generate the heat required for some kind of reaction in the paint/lacquer/polish or something to occur. Is that nonsense? For obvious reasons (£££, fear) I'd rather do it by hand if at all possible.

[Terminator]

Heat from friction is what you need to avoid as it is this which can cause you to cut through the lacquer to the colour coat. When using the rotary polisher, don't leave it one place for too long, keep it moving across the surface and don't skimp on the polish.

After some practice you will be amazed at the finish you can get!