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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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1964 Amazon 122S restoration projectViews : 32859 Replies : 270Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 6th, 2022, 15:08 | #21 |
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I think the idea has several parts.
The piston and block will expand and then contract at different rates causing the surfaces to seperate. The inclusion of ATF and a wick stops the petrol from being explosive, rather a slower burn. The ATF will boil and encourage it to seep down the cylinder walls. Shocking with a freeze spray is one idea, but not commonly done as it can encourage cracking / warping of parts. Still, if I have no success it's another thing to try. If nothing else it will be good fun. |
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Apr 6th, 2022, 15:16 | #22 | |
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Apr 6th, 2022, 15:24 | #23 | |
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I suppose if all else fails, you could have the reluctant piston machined out as part of a rebore then drop the twin carb head/manifold etc on top which might give you a few extra cc and retain the original engine number while converting to B20B (or B18B depending on size), all depends how far and which way you want to go on the oily bits.
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Apr 6th, 2022, 16:00 | #24 |
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Red-block coffee table !
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Apr 6th, 2022, 16:04 | #25 |
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Apr 6th, 2022, 18:00 | #26 |
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Suggestion: prior to setting it on fire, use a mix of ATF and acetone, which creeps better than diesel or gasoline. Seal the top of the bore to prevent evaporation and let it sit for a few days. Might require a few top ups. Good luck.
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Apr 6th, 2022, 19:19 | #27 |
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I am not quite 'getting' the heat / fire solution to piston removal. The aluminum piston has a higher coefficient of expansion than the iron block, so heat is just going to make for a potentially tighter fit. The sticking problem is caused by rusting of the rings to the bore, not sticking of the piston to the bore. If the plan was that heat would create a thermal shock that would fracture the bond, it is going to be pretty hard to get a really rapid temperature increase on the iron block in order to generate a thermal shock like you can do when you take a torch to a rusted manifold nut. Ditto with freezing, although a little liquid nitrogen or a dry ice mix might do the trick if the thermal shock doesn't crack the block.
I had the same issue on my B20E after it had been stored for about 15 years with no cover on the intake and exhaust. The cylinders with open valves breathe in atmospheric air due to ambient temperature changes and when the air has a high moisture content you have the inevitable condensation and rusting. For removal, I used a 4x4 piece of wood post (3.5"x3.5" actual with the corners trimmed to firm fit in the bore) and a 15 lb sledge hammer. I wrapped the connecting rod in a heavy towel wrapped with tape to keep it in place and protect it from damage when the piston popped out. I mounted the engine vertically on some wood blocks so that I was pounding down on the 4x4 and there was enough clearance below the engine to allow the piston and connecting rod to be ejected out the bottom safely. I think two hits did it and with the 15 lb sledge I did not have to hit really hard. In my case the rusting of the rings on the bore was bad enough that it required a 0.030 overbore. Depending on the severity of the rusting, there is a real risk that one of the rings may fracture and the end scratch the bore on the way out. I did read of one person who claimed that by drilling the piston full of holes they were able to weaken it enough to facilitate removal. I can't vouch for that. It might be doable if the piston is stuck near the top of the bore. Much more difficult if the piston is very far down the bore. Last edited by 142 Guy; Apr 6th, 2022 at 19:22. |
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Apr 6th, 2022, 21:32 | #28 |
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142 Guy;
Big thanks to you for pointing out the inconsistency with science of this "fire and brimstone technique"...usually it's Derek or me! ...for frozen-in-place-pistons, the best technique is still, and will continue to be, to soak-in penetrating lubes for as long as you have time, and when you can't wait any longer, impact persuasion with a block of wood just as you describe...it rarely fails, and the risk for collateral damage is small! Cheers |
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Apr 7th, 2022, 10:42 | #29 |
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Thing is, it has been sitting for 6 months with a mixture of ATF and a thinner (I can't remember which one I used). Hitting it with a sledgehammer so far hasn't been able to budge it.
May as well try everything before I resort to splitting the piston. If it doesn't come out, I'm unlikely to spend any money boring out to sort any damage, given I have a non seized engine with a better head. I bought the car in the knowledge I'd probably be binning the engine, so there's absolutely nothing to lose at this point. |
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Apr 7th, 2022, 19:25 | #30 |
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As much as I was really looking forward to a barbecue, I decided it wouldn't be a loss to go out and buy a bigger sledgehammer. Oh well! |
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