|
200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
Information |
|
Help! First breakdown in 15 yearsViews : 3824 Replies : 47Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jan 25th, 2020, 15:51 | #21 | |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
|
Quote:
Positioning a new belt is simple in theory but really fiddly in practice. It starts when you loosen the nut and then compress the tensioner and stick a nail in the hole to keep it compressed. At that point you can either remove the nut completely and replace the tensioner, or spin it and check that it runs freely. (In my experience they last for ever, and can be lubricated by soaking in oil overnight and then drying very thoroughly before re-fitting.) Refit the tensioner keeping the nail in place, and position the new belt on the marks. Tighten the nut up finger tight then release the nail to let the tensioner tighten the belt. Re-check to see that the belt hasn't slipped on the marks, and that the belt is in the middle of the three pulley faces. Then tighten the nut properly. You then need to wind the engine round at least 2 turns slowly using a ratchet screwdriver on the bottom pulley bolt, watching that the belt remains dead centre on each pulley and hasn't veered off to one side. Loosen the nut a little to let the tensioner re-position itself, and tighten. Points to watch - the tensioner must be absolutely flush against the engine, with no dirt. The belt must be absolutely straight, otherwise if it is angled it will wander over to one side. There is nothing to hold it in the middle position, but if it starts straight it will stay correct - hence test-winding slowly before starting up. Reassemble and start up. After running for a few minutes I like to again release the nut half a turn and re-tighten, just in case of a bit of initial slackening. I repeat that after the first good run - say 50 miles. Another tip - take great care removing and replacing the rubber plug. You really don't want to lose it inside the cover. |
|
Jan 25th, 2020, 18:20 | #22 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:31
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
The term "non-interference" means the valves shouldn't contact the pistons in the evenet of timing belt failure.
Conversely, an interference engine does. I'm surprised your head was badly corroded though, perhaps antifreeze changes have been delayed longer than 2 years each time?
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
Jan 25th, 2020, 19:06 | #23 |
Member
Last Online: May 15th, 2024 17:45
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: sevenoaks
|
First break down
Hi Thanks for your reply.You state that the vast majority of b200f head are none interference.What B200f head are interference head? I do know my way around classic car having restored Lots and lots over 40 years.Im just interested
what happened to my head.Regards Ron. |
The Following User Says Thank You to mrredwards For This Useful Post: |
Jan 25th, 2020, 20:40 | #24 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:31
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Feb 1st, 2020, 12:58 | #25 |
Master Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2022 17:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: small village in the north of Germany
|
I've just had a closer look to my notes and I did have a B200F with bent valves :-(
The car with this fault had a frozen bearing of the tensioner. You could hear this a few 1000miles in front of this!!! Owner doesn't want to follow my instructions... It did have a shaved head (forgot the amount of shaving, didn't measure I believe) and was with a VX3, the cam with most of lift in stock cams. Maybe your ones are bent too, for bad luck. Good luck, Kay Last edited by mocambique-amazone; Feb 1st, 2020 at 13:17. Reason: not my natural language... |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mocambique-amazone For This Useful Post: |
Feb 1st, 2020, 13:29 | #26 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:31
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Feb 1st, 2020, 16:04 | #27 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
|
But the engine surely doesn't stop dead if the belt snaps - crankshaft and cam shaft will go on spinning, and obviously will slow down at different rates?
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Clifford Pope For This Useful Post: |
Feb 1st, 2020, 18:02 | #28 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 13:50
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
If the belt breaks the cam will stop turning straight away, certainly much quicker than the crank. B200 is interference and B230 isn't. B230 belt changes have been done at the side of the road. I've not heard of having to re tension the belt after 600 miles, that's what a tensioner does.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Derek UK For This Useful Post: |
Feb 1st, 2020, 18:27 | #29 | ||
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:31
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
Don't forget the reason the valves get bent is because of vale to piston contact, it can in certain cases put holes in pistons because of being forced to contiue turning unless you put the clutch in rapidly. Quote:
It is a service requirement by Volvo that the belt is retensioned 600 miles later. The tension has to be set manually once the tensioner locknut is slackend half a turn or so. If you don't retension it, you run the risk of it becoming loose in service and stripping the teeth. No teeth = no drive to the camshaft!
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
||
Feb 1st, 2020, 20:48 | #30 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 23rd, 2024 20:02
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: kernow
|
Another update chaps!
After replacing the cambelt and tensioner the car still wouldn't start. A compression test showed no compression, none! I removed the head to find partiallly opened bent valves, so obviously this B200 ( I can't remember the suffix offhand) is an interference engine. Fortunately the pistons look in perfect condition and a check of the bores showed no bore wear. What seemed like a stroke of luck was that for sale only 10 miles away from me was a reconditioned head complete with gasket set. It has the '530' marking on it, so I assumed it was the right one as it had been fitted to a late 80s B200. Unfortunately, after purchasing the head, when I compared it to my existing one there are a number of differences, so it now looks as if I will rebuild the original head. Do you experts out there recommend that I have it skimmed whilst it's off the car? Or would this be a waste of time on an engine which has never overheated in our 15 years of ownership? Thanks, Chris |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to chris s For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|