Amazon: 1963 - Rolling restoration

[volvogv]

Today was tuneup day!

Cleaned the spark plugs which had a light tan color.
Set the SU jets up to the bridge. The front carb was a problem with the enrichment linkage where the jet doesn't always release when the choke is pushed in. I also found reddish brown gunk in the bottom of the float bowls. I think it came from the fuel tank but somehow got past the paper filter. Cleaned it out, checked the needle valves and put it back together. Rolled the jets back out 15 flats and started the engine. A quick check with a timing light showed that timing was dead-on 18 degrees and the vacuum advance was working. Adjusted the jets for max rpm and reset the idle screws. With a flow meter I could get the idle speed balanced between both carbs, but when the engine was revved I could see the rear carb was pulling much harder than the front. I had to let that one go for now but I'll go back later and adjust the linkages when I have more time. I need to go back and do this again when I get a dwell/tach meter so I can really see what's happening.

WOW! I can't believe how much better the car runs! Smooth....lots of power....no more pinging....no more dieseling.

Thank you guys for your good advice.

[swedishandgerman]

Great news!

Just one thing; once you have adjusted your points gap properly, I would re-adjust your timing. Incorrect points gap affects timing, ie: when the points gap is narrow, the timing is retarded as the points open later in the cycle

Personally, I prefer the method of checking timing by test drive instead of going by the book. What you've done is fine, but I would advance it a bit until there's just a very, very feint noise of pinking, then incrementally adjust the timing until it's completely eliminated.

With reference to the imbalance, you're right; you've balanced the mixtures through both and you've balanced the air flow through both at idle using the throttle adjusting screws but the linkages are imbalanced. This is the tricky part! You need to try to adjust them so that they are JUST touching the throttles. The best way to check is to look down the chambers when the engine's running and check that both the pistons lift uniformly when you just 'blip' the throttles.

[volvogv]

I'm eager to get back in there with some fresh parts and all of the right tools and really get it dialed in. I left work last night at 11:30 and home drove in the cold air. When the engine got nice and hot, it ran great with the choke turned off.

I also noticed when I drove in today that the engine sounds remarkably quieter and with better power, I'm not having to constantly shift up and down on windy country roads.

[volvogv]

Finally had some time today to make some repairs in the boot area. The most important part was to replace the fuel sender gasket. I've had raw fuel vapors filling up the boot compartment since I got the car so hopefully this will stop it. While I was there I also replaced the fuel filler rubber boot and made repairs to a couple of broken wires at the left tail light.

For my friends who keep telling to clean off the soot stains, I pulled out some polish and cleaned it up for you! :-)

Looks like a past owner liked to back up into things, yes?

[Derek UK]

"Looks like a past owner liked to back up into things, yes?"

Even more reason to check for cracks around the filler neck to tank junction that I mentioned in another post........

[volvogv]

Hi Derek,

I gave the filler neck a good lookover and even though I can't see anything clearly wrong with it, the boot compartment still fills with fuel vapors. Since the gaskets are all new, it must be the filler neck. It looks like somebody attempted to solder it and did a poor job. I've decided to yank the tank and drop in a new one. Besides the hidden damage, the inside is badly corroded. It's time for a new one.

To round it all out, I've ordered a new shifter boot and e-brake boot which should stop the last of the exhaust fumes.

[Derek UK]

You'll certainly love the noise reduction given by the new shifter boot if the old one was falling to pieces. Also check that the sponge foam seal is in place around the steering column where it goes through the bulkhead. If the wire clip is there it's easy to make something up yourself.
If you can get the car up on a lift, it would be a good idea to check along the fuel line front to back. Small pin holes not unknown. Replace the whole thing if you find any problems.

[Volvo Canadian]

Hi I just mentioned Robert at California Swedish on another thread - did I already pass his details on to you?

530 668 4990. He has everything, often new.

[volvogv]

Originally Posted by Volvo Canadian

Hi I just mentioned Robert at California Swedish on another thread - did I already pass his details on to you?

530 668 4990. He has everything, often new.

Hi James....Yes you did. I need to drop in and say hello one of these days and see his shop.

[volvogv]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

You'll certainly love the noise reduction given by the new shifter boot if the old one was falling to pieces. Also check that the sponge foam seal is in place around the steering column where it goes through the bulkhead.

Derek, I can't believe how much quieter the car is with the new boot! There's less engine, less transmission, and less wind.