need help replacing rear Handbrake Shoes

[owenfackrell]

They are ment to move a bit it's only about one inch or so but feels alot. You can test this by standing on the rear wheel and rocking the car backwards and forwards. This is apparently done so that of the brakes freeze on you can at least rock it to try and free them off.

[RonC]

http://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/

Online Automotive are pretty good, got quite a few spares off them over the last few years all of good quality and much cheaper than main dealer...

[RoyMacDonald]

Originally Posted by owenfackrell

They are ment to move a bit it's only about one inch or so but feels alot. You can test this by standing on the rear wheel and rocking the car backwards and forwards. This is apparently done so that of the brakes freeze on you can at least rock it to try and free them off.

Every Volvo I've had since 1984 has been like that.

[mcmancha]

Originally Posted by 400-ascona

Bestgear did a great "How To" under the XC90 articles page. The only specialist tool you will need will be to adjust the handbrake. He also has a thread somewhere that shows you how to make a tool. I would buy new shoe retaining springs before you start as they tend to stretch.

I have looked everywhere for the article on how to adjust the parking brake. Can someone post a link. I did find the one on how to make the tool, but not on how to use it. We have been trying to pass an inspection for 5 months on this one. Replaced brake shoes, then adjusted as best we could at the console, but it just doesn't seem to be getting tight enough to pass. I would really appreciate some help on this one.

[bigtree]

This might be it:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...e+cable&page=2

[asahartz]

Originally Posted by dd1898

I replaced the rear discs, pads and shoes on my XC90 a couple of weeks ago, straight forward. As 400-ascona said it is worth while geting 4 new shoe retaining springs which can only be bought from the dealer(think they were £2 each, typical dealer).

You must adjust the handbrake cable off otherwise you might struggle to get your discs back on.
Attachment 27869

****don't drop the circlip, you will never find it again****

I got away without making a tool to tension back up, I just pulled it apart and it is working fine.

I made the mistake of pushing the handbrake cable at the shoe end too far back and it un-hooked itself by the centre console. Below is how I fixed it shoud it happen.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=107096

Useful post. I read this before I did my discs. Even with it in mind, I still managed to drop the clip! Removed the seat, lifted the carpet - there's a whole extra layer of car under there! Anyway, with the aid of a flexi-neck led light and a magnet on the end of a curved strip of metal I did manage to retrieve the clip.

My handbrake shoes turned out to be in decent condition, but the puzzle was that one set of pads was nearly new, which is why I hadn't spotted that the other side was worn down to the metal before it was too late. Why would anyone change the pads on one side only? What sort of an idiot did that?

And the first issue I had was getting the wheels off. Some other muppet tyre fitter had tightened the nuts, including the locking nuts, with a windy gun. Result, I had to use a breaker bar on my wheelbrace and wrecked the locking nut key. No way you should ever need to put that much torque on a wheelnut. So it was my local independent Volvo specialist, Claytons of Mansfield, to the rescue, with the proper tool to get the wrecked nuts off and supplied a new set of locking nuts. The moral is, insist your tyre fitter uses a torque wrench not a windy gun! (as a postscript, Claytons were offering Pirellis fitted for only a tenner each more than the Hankooks we bought - sometimes a specialist can surprise you!)

[Thewebster]

Just spent the last 2 days 'playing' with rear brakes... Can't thank everyone enough for the posts that helped me through this difficult time, thought I would share my experiences in bid to help others out there.

bought a trolley jack and axle stands.. Jack too small (will do for wife's car) but axle stands perfect.. Used standard car jack to lift the beast (which was remarkably easy) and used the axle stand.. took the nuts out, no drama's there either. Then...

Found that the wheel had pretty much welded itself to the hub ! I kid you not.. 20 mins of 'timmy mallet' time moving on to 5 pound lump hammer time (obviously using a block of wood for protection) to get the wheel off..

Now in hind sight I should have taken this as a warning as to what else I would find...

Calliper came off fairly easily but those torx nuts are a pain to get at, removed and suspended I looked a the disk.

Disk was shot.. (the cardboard around the new one was thicker) undid the little 10mm retaining screw then gave the disk a little wiggle to release...

Yup, didn't budge.. not even a bit... I went straight for 'Lumpy the hammer' and proceeded to give the disk the good news. It took several ever increasing heavy hits to even get it budge.. I'm not a regular gym goer but I'd like to think I have some upper body strength.

Okay, joy, it moved but every time I tried to lift it off the hub it 'sprang back' umm.. Pullled it as far off as I could and peered in the gap... no shoes... odd

Well this story is going on now so to cut it short... the bloody shoes had also been busy welding themselves... to the disk... the linings had come away from the shoe and bonded to the disk.. I literally had to prise and wrench the disk off the hub and replace the entire hand brake mechanism.. which I didn't have !"£$%^&*

Trip to friendly local dealer (wife's car) in Leeds who relieved me of £40 odd quid for the privilege and another extortionate amount for some little springs...

The re-build took me about another half an hour... most of getting the handbrake assembly back in place... tricky

Note: put the larger spring in first and use the resting plate as fulcrum to open the spring over the tensioner.. That spring has more tension in it than the missus after a bad day at work !

New handbrake on, copper slip on the hub... new disk on, calliper back on, wheel on, bolts torqued up, all good...

Other side no dramas as nothing had seized (well, only needed 'timmy' to encourage the wheel to come off)

Even cleaned the alloys (cillit bang is amazing !!!)

All done ! Pressed the handbrake peddle and it went to floor faster than the kids to the ice cream man!

Centre console removal next I fear to re-attach the linkage...

One door closes and another smacks in your face!!

Still.. saved me the thick end of £400 from main stealer prices - Big thanks to FRS, all bits were cheaper than Euro replacements !

Motto.. be prepared.. dib dib dib...

[chb]

Good to see another Leeds citizen having a go.
I live in Woodlesford if you ever need any help.

[ally]

Just ordered the spring kit from PFS but noticed they don't seem to do the shoes, is the dealer best for this?

[400-ascona]

[QUOTE=Thewebster;1127555].

Okay, joy, it moved but every time I tried to lift it off the hub it 'sprang back' umm.. Pullled it as far off as I could and peered in the gap... no shoes... odd

Well this story is going on now so to cut it short... the bloody shoes had also been busy welding themselves... to the disk... the linings had come away from the shoe and bonded to the disk.. I literally had to prise and wrench the disk off the hub and replace the entire hand brake mechanism.. which I didn't have !"£$%^&*

QUOTE]

What you should have done is slackened off the cable first on the parking brake.This would allow the shoes to pull in and therefore avoid getting hung up on the hubs. Mine were in a similar state to your's, wheel bolts very tight all the way off, wheel stuck on, but bcause the cable was disconnected under the arm rest area I had no problem getting the disc off over the shoes once the rust had been overcome on the hub.

The condition mine was in made me proud it had a full dealer service history when I bought it!